No fuel through to the injectors

[Viva_65]

Hello

I have fitted a new high pressure pump thats only done 4000km.

But im not getting any fuel to the injectors at all

The pump had been out another van for about 8 months, but there was clear fuel in it right before i fitted it.

1. Ive tested the 12v solenoid, and ive removed the plunger
2. New lift pump and clear fuel lines, i can see fuel going iin and out the pump
3. Tried with easystart just to get the engine moving a bit faster

What i will do now is try to circulate some injector cleaner around the pump and hope some internal pin is stuck.

Its a DAG bosch ve pump made for the epic turbo conversion

Im getting a bit desperate as my ferry is in a week. Please any advice i will happily recieve

[Viva_65]

Circulating the injector cleaner

[dumper]

Have you tried starting in it with the injector pipes loose and as each injector starts to spray fuel out of it tighten it up as each one sprays fuel tighten it up
Are you sure you have fuel up to the pump if you have fited a new filter did you fill it with fuel before you tried to start it

[Peterr]

What worked for me is to loosen the intake banjo on the front top of pump (coming from the filter) then use a hand pump to fill it with diesel through the return outlet on the back of the pump until you see diesel come out the intake banjo. Remove the hand pump and tighten up the banjos. Do this before cracking open the injectors to bleed air as described above.

[Viva_65]

Okay, i will try this tomorow after i have given 24hr of soaking.

I will also see if the high pressure plunger is moving tomorow

I will update thanks

[Peterr]

Found DAG online:

https://www.dag-diesel.com/en/contacts/

Their email:

info@dag-diesel.com

[Viva_65]

Ive just sent a email.

So did you have the problem as me no fuel tp the high pressure lines? Are the fitting in the back of the pump where the injectore lines go in one way? Everthing on the pump still the non tamper marks from the factory, so its not been taken apart since then for sure

[Peterr]

The banjo on the back of the pump is the fuel return to the filter (arrow ‘in’ on the fuel filter)

The banjo on the front top of the pump is the fuel in, coming from the filter. (arrow ‘out’ on the fuel filter)

I was told to use the fuel out on the back to hand pump fuel in to fill the pump. I don’t know why. Maybe because the other way fuel can’t get past the compression stage?

Be sure your fuel lines to and from the filter to the pump are correctly oriented for the direction. It’s easy to mix up. My fuel filter holder has small arrows on the aluminum top where the inlets indicate fuel direction.

[Peterr]

When I tried filling the Bosch 145 through the intake banjo it didn’t fill the pump and it took a lot of cranking and starter spray before the engine started. In the end it turned out my pump wasn’t working. So had no power and wouldn’t accelerate.

I installed a new pump and filled it from the rear as described above. It started immediately after bleeding the injectors.

[Peterr]

Wrote to DAG. That pump is 1.800€ new. Don’t know what the advantage is, doesn’t a new Bosch cost the same? Got my Chinese Otosan pump 154 clone new for 750€. Got it within 10 days. Sketchy tecnical aftermarket service. Started immediately after I advanced it a bit. Let’s see if performs and if it lasts.

[Viva_65]

Hey peterr

I have some updates i took it city electro diesel to have it pressure tested. They stripped the pumo and found nothing wrong with the internals. They ran it up and still had no fuel. Then they started adjusting the pump and they managed to get fuel out the high pressure.

I boughy the pump second hand but with only 4000km, it looked genuine the cambelt had snapped on the engine it was on writing of the vehicle. I paid 550 euros for it whitch wasnt bad for a nearly new pump. And as i thought this i did not touch any fuel screws as they were still paint marked from the factory.

So as it turns out someone has tampered with it causing no fuel! Now yes expensive for me now to have it recalibrated. I just managed to get the test data from DAG yesterday and they hopefully have it done soon

Im a bit annoyed as i trusted the guy i bought it off but yeah expensive mistake now. I will let you knkw when its back on and running

[Peterr]

Good to hear, also that DAG cooperated. Unfortunately it is difficult to know if the previous owner is being dishonest or maybe it sat too long in a garage without being filled with diesel. Both cases happened to me. One fellow sold me a pump telling me it was on a working engine before. That pump was internally broken. A throw away. Another pump I took off a working engine but left it three years in my garage without filling with diesel. Was fouled up from from being dried out and seized when I tried to use it, blowing internal seals. Caused a runaway engine which can be dangerous and difficult to stop. Fortunately no damage. Lessons learned. I had two pumps which I had rebuilt and sold as a Lucas conversion kit, which covered my losses and paid for a new pump. Learned a lot!

[Viva_65]

Ow wow you have been through allot with these pumps

Update im back on the road! Just did carmarthen to portsmouth and its great. I have the 85ps injectors and my turbo is boosting straight up to 10psi nicely.

Havent done mpg yet, i had some trouble sealing the old high pressure lines onto thos engine, and i ran quite some time with a unknowing diesel leak. Will do a full tank run with cheaper fuel in spain.

Thanks for the help. I do have another question if you know. I understand that different injectors have different openinh pressuers etc. I have a set of 100ps injectors with me in the van. Can i just fit them without touching any pump screws?

Now that ive had it calibrated i dont want to touch the pump and DAG never questioned if my engine was the 85 or 100

[Peterr]

When I reused the high pressure pipes that were on the Lucas pump they were impossible to fit to the back of the new pump. However there is a trick. Before bolting the new pump on to the engine flange, leave the pump loose. Remove the pipe’s retainer clips closest to the pump so that they have more room to be maneuvered. I also undid the head nuts on the injectors but did not remove them completely. This allows for a little wiggle room with the pipes.

Then gently attach the bottom left pipe first, viewed from the rear, then the top left, last the others which are easiest. It will be a little difficult but carefully tighten the head nuts assuring that you haven’t cross threaded the nut. As long as they turn easily keep tightening. Then loosely mount the pump to the engine flange with one bolt, then push the pump until you get all three bolts loosely in and partially threaded. Also here careful not to cross thread them, carefully tighten up the bolts in a clockwise pattern to pull the pump into the flange. Once the pump is secured to the flange, go ahead and bolt the rear bracket to the engine block. Then check the pipes are tightened properly on the back of the pump.

Normally one would first bolt the pump to the engine then proceed with the attaching the pipes. Nearly impossible if you’re reusing the Lucas pipes.