xreg smiley water leaking, is it a common place????

[winterheating]

looked at a bad water leak on a 76ps today.

the leak is coming from what looks like between the front alloy engine casing that the fuel pump bolts to and the block.
theres a large coolant hose coming from bottom of expansion or bottom of rad (cant remember) it bolts to this alloy casting pointing towards front of van. the guy thought it was leaking from there but its leaking above that from where the alloy joins the block and looks like even more on the other side of the alloy behind the timing cover.

what i need to know is do i just need drill bits to lock timing up and will it be an eaSy fix, cos it is pi**ing out and looks like somethings cracked, but this alloy part must bolt on seperatly to the block surely, and ahow big a job is that normally

[rhurt5]

yep drill bits are fine to lock out the engine on the pump and cam,be carfull on the flywhel as there are 2 possible holes but use the one that is in line when the cam and pump are locked,also remember that the viscouse fan is not on a left handed thread when you come to remove it

[psv-hgv-flt]

yep drill bits are fine to lock out the engine on the pump and cam,be carfull on the flywhel as there are 2 possible holes but use the one that is in line when the cam and pump are locked,also remember that the viscouse fan is not on a left handed thread when you come to remove it

the right hole is the one that go's in the most.

[Grenadekid]

looks like we have the same problem, i noticed our transit leaking coolant at the lip on the sump so i took of the timing cover and no leaks so pulled off the water pump and came to the same conclusion that its leaking between the alloy plate and the block where the water pump port runs into the block so have her stripped down now and a new gasket set got today so gonna put her back together again tomorrow, oh and forgot to say that seems to be where she was leaking from but you,ll know that anyway by know
regards kev

[winterheating]

yep drill bits are fine to lock out the engine on the pump and cam,be carfull on the flywhel as there are 2 possible holes but use the one that is in line when the cam and pump are locked,also remember that the viscouse fan is not on a left handed thread when you come to remove it

the right hole is the one that go's in the most.

cheers, do you know what size drill bits are needed

[winterheating]

looks like we have the same problem, i noticed our transit leaking coolant at the lip on the sump so i took of the timing cover and no leaks so pulled off the water pump and came to the same conclusion that its leaking between the alloy plate and the block where the water pump port runs into the block so have her stripped down now and a new gasket set got today so gonna put her back together again tomorrow, oh and forgot to say that seems to be where she was leaking from but you,ll know that anyway by know
regards kev

did you get it sorted is it bad too do it looks like the alloy part is the full front of engine, is it:?:
part nos would be good for gaskets if you got them

[Grenadekid]

Not too bad once you have done one but a bit time consuming, yes the whole front of the engine more or less has to come off for just a coolant leak. Ok if its your pride and joy but ours is an old sh*t heap on its last legs although the old donkeys fairly good. Timing gear has to all come off, alternator unbolted and pulled to one side same with power steering pump, water pump off, oil pump off, take the three bolts out of the diesel pump and loosen the two at the back of the pump on the bracket (helps more with getting it on again) only about 6 or so bolts holding the plate on. The oil pump can be a bit tight to pull out.

i went to the local dealers to buy the gasket set as i allowed theres too much stuff to bolt on and gasket sealant might go off before id get everything tightened and it would fry your brain if you had to do that over again. anyways the local dealer was looking £150 for the bottom gasket set but told me he would take £130 still in F**** ripoff. End up got the gasket set for £40. if you go to your local engine reconditioner he will get you the gaskets for £60 tops. i got mine for 40 as i went to the guy that supplies him stuff you Mr ford
Cost £40 for seal kit which includes sump gasket, gasket for back of alloy plate, oil and water pump gasket, o rings for oil pump, camshaft and crank oil seals. Had leftover o rings fibre washers back engine gaskets rear crank oil seal, sump gasket etc. new timing kit cost £57. So around £100 quid for parts and of course your precious time