Stop solenoid on back of pump

[zaramia]

Hi all,

I'm after some advice. I've just been recovered by the RAC, the van, a 98 DI with Bosch pump , cut out and the RAC guy found that one of the 3 cables going into the back of the pump has snapped right where it enters the pump so there is no way of repairing the snapped cable without removing the back end of the pump. Is there any way of bypassing this setup. I don't know the function of the 3 cables ,I guess that it is linked into the PATS system. Any ideas please. Oh and by the way can anyone explain why the recovery man insisted on disconnecting the propshaft ?

[MinorMatt]

because some people have the idea that towing a RWD can shaft the gearbox.

It is do do with the PATS and the only way to bypass it is to take the rear cover off.

[zaramia]

Right then,i've finally managed to take the cover plate off the back of the injection pump, and removed the 2 screws holding the black plastic thingy in place. I can now see a black cable coming from the rear of the thingy going to what I believe to be the stop solenoid. This cable appears to be captive to the thingy, but I cant see how it's attached to the solenoid. I'm getting very frustrated as the 3 cables going into the thingy also appear to be captive to it and the snapped cable which has caused all the hassle has snapped right where it enters the thingy, and I can see no way of repairing it. Now how do I bypass the thingy, an ignition controlled live feed is my guess, and what about the starter circuit, cos thats affected by the same problem ? Please, please help !

[zaramia]

Back again, just had a look on ebay at a transit stop solenoid, and it looks like the connection is made with a ring connector secured by a nut. Am I right ?. Also does anyone know if Fords supply the Black plastic thingy, or would I be better off trying a Diesel Parts supplier ? Thanks.

[MinorMatt]

the black plastic thingy is the RIM module... if you remove this you can see the stop solenoid.

I assume the wire broke leaving a bit of wire at each end? If so strip the wire, solder it and use a bit of heat shrink.

Replacing the RIM module isnt straight forward because its a coded part of the immobiliser system, you could swap it for a new one, but then you would need to get an auto sparky with the appropriate kit to recode it.

I have got a good used one somewhere but the same would apply as above

[zaramia]

Thanks for the reply.

Unfortunately the wire has snapped off within the black plastic shroud of the RIM ( that sounds good, better than Black Thingy) so I can't do anything without removing it from the van. I shall have a go on Sunday, perhaps by grinding the plastic back I may be able to access a connection point, hopefully without destroying the RIM.

Wish me luck !

[zaramia]

Well I finally managed to get the time, and the weather, to repair the Old Girl.

I had to cut the glued on end cover of the RIM off to gain access to the remains of the snapped off cable.
There was still about 10mm of cable left before it disappered into the completely sealed part of the device, so I was able to do a piggyback solder joint onto this bit, covering the repair with heat shrink.

At the same time I had a closer inspection of the other 2 cables and found that they were both beginning to give way, lots of the strands had already snapped, so I carried out the same repair on those.

I glued the end cover on with silicone sealant, and smothered the repairs in the same gunk. This should keep it waterproof and help with absorbing vibration at the repairs.

Reassembled with lots of cursing because its a real fiddly job with the pump still mounted to the engine, and she started !

Now does anyone know if it is possible toget a new RIM coded without actually having to fit it, I may just buy one as a spare and have it ready in the van should my repair ever fail.

[MinorMatt]

Its unliklely it will fail again tbh

But you have a 3 pin plug going to the injection pump, if you plug a new RIM in there and get it coded it should work!