wheel bearing

[stuartwilkins1]

started changing the wheel bearing last night but it was getting dark so came to a halt. Could somebody please talk me through it as I was getting nowhere fast. I now have the back bearing wedged on the stub so was going to get a new one because this needs chiseling off. Does everything fit inside the hub then go on as one ? Also do the tapered sleeve things need to be changed too as when we put back together with these still in it was still noisy and advised its these.

[Luke]

right........ you need to swap the tapered parts too - they are the outer case of the bearings

you need 2x bearings complete

the whole lot should fit in the hub then just go on the stub very easly - if you have the inner race stuck on the stub chances are it will be damaged and have picked up if you cant get it off with a puller you can use an angle grinder grind it thin on each side (but not all the way through) then just break it off with a chisel - if its damaged underneith (the stub axle) it might clean up ok

[stuartwilkins1]

thanks mate will be back on it later. When you say 2 bearings do you mean inner and outer or do both sides ? The new one also had a new collar with it with a rubber seal in it but there wasnt one on the old one, do you know where this is for ?

[Luke]

thanks mate will be back on it later. When you say 2 bearings do you mean inner and outer or do both sides ? The new one also had a new collar with it with a rubber seal in it but there wasnt one on the old one, do you know where this is for ?

no just 1 side an inner and an outer - always do them both
the seal goes on the inside after the bigger bearing has gone on - there should be one on yours is it stuck on the stub axle behind the inner race thats still on

[stuartwilkins1]

im going to get a new one, strip everything off the old one and start from scratch I think. Ive been to halfords for a haynes manual but not got one in stock. A picture paints a thousand words and all that. Would it still of been grinding because we didnt change the tapered rings inside then ?

[Luke]

yeah if you dont change both races of the bearing and there's some wear on the inner race the new one will be the same

try ebay for a haynes

[stuartwilkins1]

All done now thanks and nice and smooth. Not as easy as we were expecting but it doesnt help when they give us the wrong part first of all.

[JohnTransit97]

hi luke and stuartwilkins1
You know when after you put the hub back onto its shaft replaced the washer and then put the nut to lock the hub onto the shaft. Torqued the nut on then as the haynes manual says turned the nut back one flat checked for slight movement on the wheel. If you did not find any turn back one more flat on the nut then I found the nut to be loose. Checked for slight movement in wheel,again. Is the nut supposed to be this loose or am i just talking jibberish?
Johntransit

[stuartwilkins1]

I did that mate and it did become looser than you would expect but thats the way it must be. From what I saw the split pin stops it from coming off and the washer sits on the cog part of the spindle so it wont turn and stops any moving parts touching the nut. Is this right ???

[Luke]

what i do when i torque them is tighten them up as much as you can while spinning the wheel - this compressed the bearing making sure its seated correctly, then just back it of untill it feels right you'll get to tell once you've done a few i think there is a setting for the end float in haynes manual but i dont bother with it, it's not that critical

[JohnTransit97]

Cheers Luke and Stuartwilkins1
Confirms what I was hoping so thanks for that. I will do the same for the passenger side hopefully this week.
Would you be able to tell me that if the modification leak off on our Rregtransit 97 SWB minibus has been done and we still get intermittent loss of power or misfire then could well be the injectors or pump that is at fault.
Johntransit