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MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

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Re: 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby BUCKOZ9822 » Mon Jan 16, 2012 10:11 am

IVE GOT A 2.5DI IVE HAD PROBLEMS FOR OVER 5 YEARS STARTING WHEN COLD AND THIS YEAR TODAY BEING THE COLDEST IT STARTED STRAIGHT AWAY AND THE SOLUTION IVE FOUND IS IVE GOT BIO FUEL MIXED WITH NORMAL DIESEL AND IT STARTS ,WONT HARM U TRYING A BIT BIO IN YA TRANY WORKS WITH MINE,
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Re: 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby evilgoat » Mon Feb 06, 2012 2:20 pm

Theres a thread in the Mk3/4/5 On Thermostatrs with linkies.

I now have one and it works and even in -2 this morning she went on the first rev or the engine. All the following have been done on my van...
Batteries (both)
Replaced +ve clamp on one battery, cleaned all wriring, new -ve hardness on aux battery on pas side
Trickle charger added to mains side of the van so when she's plugged in, she's charging.
New earth straps from AUX battery to chassis. New earth strap to engine on other side (all the above got faster cranking)
Full service inc all filters (all the above got faster cranking)
Air filter (Helped a lil, took a bit but she'd now start with a cloud of fog on the 5th/6th go)
Thermostart (now goes on first go if you allow the relay to kick out, still a good cranking needed)

And then

Timing belt check. pump was off about 2mm clockwise. Belt off checked, all pinned up and then refitted.

Now starts perfectly at the slightest flick of the key. In my case she was producing a fog when trying to start consisting of unburned fuel. Actually checking the timing really is a sinch too. Lock the crank then make sure the pin goes into the fuel pump. Theres a bung on the cover so it can stay on for this. I used an Autodata manul but the Haynes manual gives the same info and the dia of the pins so you can find a substitute.

SO heres yer cold start badge back :)
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby MadGutts » Mon Nov 19, 2012 10:57 am

Oh yes its that time of year again!

I have 2x transits now, a mk4 which has twin batteries, and the BIG starter motor, and all the starter leads are massive (overkill style), the batteries are physically the biggest Ah available that fit in the twin trays and give a total of over 1700 CCA... so this starts fine when its cold - as long as the batteries are charged... so this now has a decent battery charger which maintains the charge and float charges the batteries when then van is sat doing nothing.

However, i bought a MK5 last year and it was fine through the winter for starting, but littrally i started it and left it running and then switched it of after 20 mins or so... so last year it only needed a jump once as it was REALLY Cold and i had to 24v start my mk4 on the same morning to get to the unit to get the other van started...

However i have now been using the Mk5 for the last few months as i am now modifying the van for another venture... so for the last few days i have had to jump the mk5 from the Mk4 (without starting the Mk4) which spins her up no problem and then i can use the Mk5 as normal all day no problems... if the sun is out and the van is pointing into the sun, then it will start no problems, but there was ice on the windscreen and i left the van around the wrong way this morning, so it was dead...

So... It is due a service so i will be replacing the oil and filter today...

However... is there anything in the vehicle that could drain any current from the battery over night? the battery does hold change and is fine for the last year - but i am guessing either the battery is on the way out, or something in the vehicle is pulling a small amount of current... the only thing i can think is the clock and the radio... its a modern radio so i cannot believe that to be the problem! and the clock in an old Mazda i had was loosing time and drawing more current than needed so that flattened the battery in the past... but do Mk5 transit clocks suffer from this too?

p.s. never hand the CSC sticker back, just leave it in the glove box!
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby ake » Mon Nov 19, 2012 6:17 pm

Your battery is probably about to die
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby ediesbra » Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:17 pm

Im guessing then that chucking out white smoke when the van is just cranking and not firing is a sure sign of pump timing out??
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby ake » Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:16 pm

ediesbra wrote:Im guessing then that chucking out white smoke when the van is just cranking and not firing is a sure sign of pump timing out??

Certainly a good indication
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby ediesbra » Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:17 pm

Just to update the pump was advanced as far as I could and she started nearly instantly.
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby evilgoat » Sun Feb 24, 2013 3:38 pm

PUMP PUMP PUMP and PUMP. I fought doing this on mine and in exhasperation it was the very last thing I wanted to try. Wish I'd done it first thing.

The white smoke is a dead giveaway. Its been bloody cold round here of late and over a year on its still starting on the button. I think the tendancy os to leave it or ignore it as the van is fine other than the cold start.
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby ake » Sun Feb 24, 2013 4:55 pm

evilgoat wrote:PUMP PUMP PUMP and PUMP. I fought doing this on mine and in exhasperation it was the very last thing I wanted to try. Wish I'd done it first thing.

The white smoke is a dead giveaway. Its been bloody cold round here of late and over a year on its still starting on the button. I think the tendancy os to leave it or ignore it as the van is fine other than the cold start.

In reality it is very seldom a pump problem on Di Transits
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby evilgoat » Sun Feb 24, 2013 5:23 pm

As in timing
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby ake » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:41 am

evilgoat wrote:As in timing

Incorrect timing is one of the main causes of poor starting from cold.
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby Sebasto » Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:02 pm

Hi guys...

I am looking for a mk5 and trying to collect info on this van....

As I am french I rather look to french forums and when reading your forum and this thread it reminded that guy that fixed this very issue of starting cold...
He fixed this problem on the fuel injection pump ... I link you the post it is mainly replacing a few parts (3) that tend to cause these problems when ageing....

I hope it helps and sorry for my bad english !!

Here's the link :

http://www.trafic-amenage.com/forum/vie ... 7&start=30
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby robbie.cee » Wed Mar 13, 2013 8:04 pm

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BipBip
Transitaménageur Joined: 03 Mar 2006 Posts: 302 Location: ares (33) Vehicle: Transit L1 H1 2004


Posted: Mon October 13, 08 9:05
My little feedback on a cold start problem .... on transit in 1993 it was the starter, the mass of it was so oxidized I think, put it under my battery juice ... result bolt mass became bright red starter and the starter was no longer operational: removing the bolt frotage the ground lug, reboulonnage, I started like clockwork! Landmark: My ground bolt had taken the same brown color as a bolt exhaust would have taken the heat!

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bidou
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Posted: Mon October 13, 08 9:16
it does not juice your battery in court, but it was a hot point, you basically have one thermal resistance and made ​​the poor mass screw your servais contact resistance c which is why mine was bad and reddish mark which is heated so bad contacts and no starter, you have the same failure that few arrive on your battery terminals at which oxidizes, your starter is not running or not so soon and not enough to turn your engine that it can start, so all of the battery connections as + - must be impertinently own
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Fab_roller
Traficaménageur Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 1299 Location: Bordeaux Vehicle: VW T5 TDI130


Posted: Sun November 2nd 08 4:29 p.m.
I FINALLY RECEIVED MY ROOM AND IT IS ALMOST SOLVED!

Having met a Mr. Jerome called a mechanical forum, I could have him grace to return information about the same problem he had been a victim of this engine. Fort friendly and being a leader of the injection pump, he told me of a small room and two joints which IP when they were worn bridaient the perfs and cold starts. The most important thing is that the removal of these parts eliminates the need for not removing the PI as located in the top cap of the latter accessible by four simple screws! Beginning in August 2008 "Super Jérome" I passed the following document which will surely help other owners 2.5DI Transit: We must then replace the following parts: 51: O-Ring Ref. Bosch 1460210330 36: O-ring Ref. Bosch 1460210329 31: Socket Ref. Bosch 1460320338 It takes about 20min to replace parts. Raise the cover screws, not to keep it jumps with the spring. Remove the screws and remove the piston 6pans then the pad (to remove or put your finger in the rubber bushing tool and pull hard because the O-ring has incredible strength. Reassemble. Done this and it works again. You must find someone who mainly sell these parts, and it is certainly not a mechanic that you provide for specific hardware A PI diéséliste which can for the account, you will send grazing if it is the kind of one of my corner, or you will pay the price of gold. You have the net and then I spent a lot of time to find directly in Germany as advised. Meme mastering the German I had to fall back on France or an online store agreed after negotiations provide me! These WEBDEALAUTO.COM, for € 37 including postage, ridiculous! So far, they have added these items on their site responded to my request and now you can order without waiting normally like me or negotiate tight supply for this application. Results: The truck starts much better, almost perfectly ("almost" because I think it's me who's wrong dose accelerator startup). Almost no vibrations during gear shifting at low revs. torque again become "huge" Wow! Drop consolidated. Flexible pipe. motor noise declined sharply. This is great!


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Jerome
Traficaménageur Joined: 11 Aug 2006 Posts: 250 Location: Cherbourg (50) Vehicle: 120hp Ducato Combi


Posted: Tues, November 4th 08 11:02 p.m.
Fab When you started, did you have to maintain a slight pressure on the accelerator pedal or can you drop it completely without risk of stalling? Mine starts with a quarter turn cold if I accelerate slightly. But when it comes to start if I let the pedal it does not hold idle and alone .. Have you (again) this phenomenon?

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Fab_roller
Traficaménageur Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 1299 Location: Bordeaux Vehicle: VW T5 TDI130


Posted: Thurs, November 6th, 08 10:09 p.m.
In fact I do not need to keep your foot on the accelerator.
Once it's gone, it's gone.
Even if I cut the contact 5 sec. after booting (even difficult), I will restart always perfect as long as it is launched the first time. And you, you disengaged and more to help launch the craft? I noticed that it was better without, in any case. Also, to help even more, I think I'll do as our dear BipBip and remove my starter because it turns not super fast despite a new Bosch battery. again I already thoroughly starter Ford ( soak all parts and contacts White) and it was day and night, then.






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Fab_roller
Traficaménageur Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 1299 Location: Bordeaux Vehicle: VW T5 TDI130






Posted: Fri November 28, 08 11:08 p.m.
And voila, I have already redone all the contacts of the starter bundle, including the battery terminals.
Suddenly, gain speed! 's it, so I could finally enjoy the luxury of starting to perfection by very cold weather. Yesterday -2 ° C in the morning and the pleasure of "Brrooom" barely half a second after turning the key = And all without preheating, TOP 8)


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KXchris
Traficampeur Joined: April 27, 2008 Posts: 11 Location: North isere Vehicle: 90 transit 2L5






Posted: Tues, February 17, 09 0:34
Hi, sorry to up this post, but I have the same problem on my new acquisition (90.277000 transit Km)! ... As I will do this "tutorial" and you'll talk vitement! I've already changed the battery and it is a little better, but with the cold ... j'vous not tell in the morning, anguish before turning the key!
thank you
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Fab_roller
Traficaménageur Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 1299 Location: Bordeaux Vehicle: VW T5 TDI130






Posted: Wed February 18, 09 10:24 p.m.
Good luck to you, it is true that it was a sacred adventure that started.
Anyway, you have a lot of good tracks now.
_____________________ KCV - KIT Planning van motorhome. For Renault Trafic, VW Transporter T5, T4 Multivan ... http://www.kitcampingvan.fr


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Fab_roller
Traficaménageur Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 1299 Location: Bordeaux Vehicle: VW T5 TDI130






Posted: Thurs, March 26, 09 10:55 p.m.
New problem of the same family: SOLVED! Transit was doing very well for operations that I described. conso Super, so much better than before. remained when even a small problem to solve, I forgot, in Euphoria: It grazed at low speed, at a certain temperature. Besides, this problem has only grown to be bothering. redone my entire injection, so I went through all that concerned a possible transmission problem: nothing And then last weekend, when I decided to clean my EGR valve deeper, I realized ... I saw in a huge air manifold accumulation of pollution, fat and pasty form. I démontais more parts of the collector, and it was getting worse. It was really packs grime that endoit reduced by half the diameter of the air intake pipe to the cylinder head. Beeeuurk It took me almost a day to disassemble, reassemble, and especially clean this up, my hands are black encores at the time I write. It took fire: air box, EGR valve, EGR presostat, ferrule air and control all elements of the collection, the more injection nozzles. Nothing around the head ... Well, now it "breathes" better damn cushy! The "chatter" is forgotten and he especially acceleration is compared to previously fantastisques! souplu It is much more at low revs and does even more than the same engine noise. I no longer recognize it looks like a new one!


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stf45
Traficampeur Joined: December 23, 2009 Posts: 3 Location: loiret Vehicle: transit


Posted: Wed December 23, 09 1:02 p.m.
Hello everyone I just bought a 1990 transit and I also have this problem of cold start, I changed the battery and still same, so I'll follow your advice and look at the wiring harness. 'll let you know If I can say LOL


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Fab_roller
Traficaménageur Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 1299 Location: Bordeaux Vehicle: VW T5 TDI130


Posted: Thurs, December 24, 09 11:41
Stf45 Hi,
Do as the starter itself, or use it quite oxide (connections and coal).
When you put a new battery, you have to think at the same time scratching inside pods. Grease well and do the same treatment beam to the connections on the starter. A bit special this 2.5Di without candles, but when everything is set, the foot to allow booting as an essence . now on my new Mk7, it ... I miss it , I am not accustomed to waiting for preheating.



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Last edited by Fab_roller Mon December 28, 09 21:21; edited 1 time
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stf45
Traficampeur Joined: December 23, 2009 Posts: 3 Location: loiret Vehicle: transit


Posted: Sat December 26, 09 5:51 p.m.
I scraped pods and beam but nothing changes, then I'll look at the démarreur.car I did not pre-heat but I have to lift the hood to put the driver on the morning star which is not terrible
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stf45
Traficampeur Joined: December 23, 2009 Posts: 3 Location: loiret Vehicle: transit


Posted: Thurs, January 14, 10 8:17 p.m.
startup problem solved. I did check the battery and the test shows that there is more acid. then buying a new battery and the next Norauto impossible starts, so I raised the hood he wore a 60 A not cold enough juice. return from the stars of Norauto and replaces it with a 80 A and nickel from cold start. failure now hides another gauge diesel remains at zero and the needle water temperature. therefore if you have a fuse off track I'm interested


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LuDoBrOcK
Traficampeur Joined: October 4, 2012 Posts: 2 Location: Bergerac Vehicle: Transit 2.5D


Posted: Thurs, October 4, 12 10:43
Fab_roller wrote:
I FINALLY RECEIVED MY ROOM AND IT IS ALMOST SOLVED!

Having met a Mr. Jerome called a mechanical forum, I could have him grace to return information about the same problem he had been a victim of this engine. Fort friendly and being a leader of the injection pump, he told me of a small room and two joints which IP when they were worn bridaient the perfs and cold starts. The most important thing is that the removal of these parts eliminates the need for not removing the PI as located in the top cap of the latter accessible by four simple screws! Beginning in August 2008 "Super Jérome" I passed the following document which will surely help other owners 2.5DI Transit: We must then replace the following parts: 51: O-Ring Ref. Bosch 1460210330 36: O-ring Ref. Bosch 1460210329 31: Socket Ref. Bosch 1460320338 It takes about 20min to replace parts. Raise the cover screws, not to keep it jumps with the spring. Remove the screws and remove the piston 6pans then the pad (to remove or put your finger in the rubber bushing tool and pull hard because the O-ring has incredible strength. Reassemble. Done this and it works again. You must find someone who mainly sell these parts, and it is certainly not a mechanic that you provide for specific hardware A PI diéséliste which can for the account, you will send grazing if it is the kind of one of my corner, or you will pay the price of gold. You have the net and then I spent a lot of time to find directly in Germany as advised. Meme mastering the German I had to fall back on France or an online store agreed after negotiations provide me! These WEBDEALAUTO.COM, for € 37 including postage, ridiculous! So far, they have added these items on their site responded to my request and now you can order without waiting normally like me or negotiate tight supply for this application. Results: The truck starts much better, almost perfectly ("almost" because I think it's me who's wrong dose accelerator startup). Almost no vibrations during gear shifting at low revs. torque again become "huge" Wow! Drop consolidated. Flexible pipe. motor noise declined sharply. This is great!

Hi,
I used to go to subject because I meet a problem almost similar,
My van démmarre quarter turn cold as hot, cold it works fine, but I have a concern of loss of power after a few kilometers, when I do it thoroughly accelerates a thud and side air just by insisting he frees himself as if he had a turbo (got a 2.5D) and revs, I noticed a strong consumption and black smoke , not huge, when I shoot, I changed the air filter, fuel filter, put the ween's but the problem remains,
What do you think dear friend (s)?
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tennessee34
Traficaménageur Joined: 11 Feb 2011 Posts: 120 Location: herault Vehicle: ford transit


Posted: Mon October 15, 12 9:52 p.m.
Fab_roller salvation
when you take apart all your air intake you to change all your manifold gaskets and other???





Man, forgive me for laughing, but not bad translation for a computer....

"it does not juice your battery in court, but it was a hot point, you basically have one thermal resistance and made ​​the poor mass screw your servais contact resistance c which is why mine was bad and reddish mark which is heated so bad contacts and no starter, you have the same failure that few arrive on your battery terminals at which oxidizes, your starter is not running or not so soon and not enough to turn your engine that it can start, so all of the battery connections as + - must be impertinently own "
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Re: MK 2/3/4/5) 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby evilgoat » Wed Mar 13, 2013 8:37 pm

Seems its translated it to yiddish :) While te sentiment is apreciated I'm not sure how useful that huge great post is :)
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Re: 2.5Di wont start when cold

Postby samson » Thu May 30, 2013 9:06 pm

[quote="BUCKOZ9822"]IVE GOT A 2.5DI IVE HAD PROBLEMS FOR OVER 5 YEARS STARTING WHEN COLD AND THIS YEAR TODAY BEING THE COLDEST IT STARTED STRAIGHT AWAY AND THE SOLUTION IVE FOUND IS IVE GOT BIO FUEL MIXED WITH NORMAL DIESEL AND IT STARTS ,WONT HARM U TRYING A BIT BIO IN YA TRANY WORKS WITH MINE,[/quote]
2.5 never had a problem,even with sun flower oil ,
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