Engine Management Light - multiple fault codes

[iforbach349]

Hi all - I've VERY limited technical knowledge so bear with me, would really appreciate some advice...

Been looking for a Transit to convert to camper for a little while, using this forum as really useful resource. Bought a Mk7 2007 T300 privately on Monday, within 14 miles the engine management light came on. Have had the codes read and they report back as follows:

P1103 - Air mass sensor signal to high (oxygen sensor behind catalytic converter 1, heating control circuit low)
P037D - Main preheating relay malfunction
P2265 - fuel water content sensor malfunction (water separator sensor circuit range/performance)
P026B - engine control unit internal fault (control unit internal fault, fuel injector control performance)

It's going back to garage on Monday when the 'codes master' is back from holiday so he can interpret if one fault is the cause of another, but in the meantime thought I'd ask here to see if anyone has had any similar issues and can shed any light or give any advice?

Also, is it likely that with this fault coming so soon after purchase I've been stitched up?!

Many thanks
Jim

[loot]

First fault wording isn't right but I'd say that the front battery is failing or flat and the egr is playing up, clear codes and check again.

Could be a number of other things tho.

[iforbach349]

Thanks loot - first fault wording is as written on print-out from garage.

Is the idea behind clearing the codes just to see if they're coming up erroneously? Or are you suggesting addressing front battery/egr problems and then checking? Again, apologies for extremely limited knowledge here...

[v8dave]

Is it petrol or diesel ?

If it's diesel then P2265 suggests that the pcm code is the factory original version - code on passenger door pillar.
A pcm update "cures" that one and will also give you anti-stall. Should really be done with ids because the pump and injector corrections will need relearning.

[loot]

P1103 - Air mass sensor signal to high (oxygen sensor behind catalytic converter 1, heating control circuit low)
usually maf reading high and suggests egr blank or faulty.

P037D - Main preheating relay malfunction
Maybe glow plug short.

P2265 - fuel water content sensor malfunction (water separator sensor circuit range/performance)
Water in fuel fault but usually the sensor isn't fitted.

P026B - engine control unit internal fault (control unit internal fault, fuel injector control performance)
Either low front battery voltage or problem with pcm/injector- karl mcghee had this recently and it turned out a problem with a broken wire on his cam sensor (but i can't remember, it may have been another problem but the same fault)

Assumption on my part that yours is diesel, you can check the fault codes for Ford specific definitions rather than generic definitions which i feel that the garage has given you.

[iforbach349]

Thanks both, yep it's a diesel 2.2. Checked the codes on an app for Ford specific definitions and they're all as you say loot.

What would you suggest the next course of action is? Want to get this thing as mechanically 'sound' as it can be before starting the conversion and bit worried about costs mounting up so soon after having bought the thing! Is it worth taking to a Ford specialist, or can anyone recommend a garage in Cardiff area?

[loot]

Clear codes then get them rechecked later, if the fuel filter looks old then replace it and a service if it hasn't been done recently, make sure the battery/s are good.
You can get a pcm update and fuel pump/injectors learn, that always helps.

If the p026b fault doesn't go away then that is a bit of a worry but get codes cleared and let us know

[iforbach349]

Lovely, will do - thanks, really appreciate the help. In the meantime, is it OK to drive as I have no other vehicle!

[loot]

I would be happy to drive it if you know that the oil etc are on the level and the engine sounds good.

But i won't tell you to drive it for the obvious reason being that you can never really trust any machine 100%:-(
But yes it'll be fine
But i didn't tell you to drive it.

[iforbach349]

I see what you're saying...

Yeah engine all sounds good, no loss of power (though admittedly i've had the van for 3 days so how the hell would I know?)

Last service was in January and fuel filter to my untrained eye looks pretty new. Had an AA inspection of it before buying and only thing it mentioned was front disc brakes will need to be looked at within a year or so. Everything else 'satisfactory'.

[iforbach349]

Update: the light went off of its own volition, but had an auto-electrician re-read the codes and update the PCM which has cleared all of them except a glow plugs warning, which he said is not a problem as they don't need them anyway?! Anyway - thanks again for advice and patient responses to what I'm sure is going to be the first of many questions...

[loot]

That's great news if the problem comes back tho (or part of it comes back) then I'd look at the egr because I've known them to bring the warning light on and extinguish it over days and throughout the year

Also perhaps your front battery was also low and has subsequently gained a full charge.
Stranger things have happened

[iforbach349]

Thanks loot, will do. I've read about blanking of the EGR (once cleaned/replaced), is there any downside or risk to doing that?

[loot]

You can blank it but the warning lamp will come on, you need it deleted from the pcm for it to stay off, a reputable tuner can do it such as vantuner
You can also fit the blanking plate that has a hole in, the idea is that it allows enough return pressure to keep the maf happy, whilst minimising the oil crud that goes into the inlet. Ppl get varying results with this.

There's differing views on removing the egr, i would say it is best suited to non vnt engines ie. Upto 125 pre euro 5. But that's my opinion.

Stick a blanking plate in and see how you feel about it, the lamp will come on but that's all it is for now, it won't affect it ie. Limp mode iirc.
You can make it a permanent solution when you've decided how your van feels.
Remember tho that blanking it means that the turbo is forced to supply all the boost.