5h4ggy wrote:Hi guy, my crank pull has just errrmmm fallen off, how easy is it to change?
And will it have done any other damage?
Cheers shaggy
Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk
Timing cover looks OK, It looks like I can get on the bolts easy enough. How tight are they? The van is stranded on a dead end road, so I am planing on picking up a new pulley tomorrow and do it on the road.knobby1 wrote:5h4ggy wrote:Hi guy, my crank pull has just errrmmm fallen off, how easy is it to change?
And will it have done any other damage?
Cheers shaggy
Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk
Reasonably easy to change...but the three bolts are tight and can be difficult get at easily. Check timing cover for damage, there's a chance the loose pulley can rub through the cover.
Lord Knobrot
Yeah it's done, took about 30 mins, I wedgeed the ratchet against the chassis and blipped the starter to crack the bolts. Probably one of the easier jobs to do on the side of the road.ake wrote:Its easy enough, I did mine on my motorhome at the side of the road, as long as it hasn't damaged the timing cover
5h4ggy wrote:It never end!
True that! Van prices are mental at the moment! I reckon the second hand van market is about dou le what is was pre covid. I am hoping I can keep this 1 going untill it returns to normalAltransit wrote:5h4ggy wrote:It never end!
Your van, like mine is now 15 years old, and unfortunately things deteriorate over time as well as mileage. You can take comfort in that whatever it costs to keep going is worth the money, unless it's falling apart with rust, as the prices of replacement vans are just silly expensive at the moment
5h4ggy wrote:OK so after completing the crank shaft pulley all was well... I thought
Just been out for a drive and I had a good look around and noticed the water pump is not turning at idle. I am assuming it should be, just checking there isn't a clutch or slip drive on it. The power steering pump is turning fine and working.
So do I just need a water pump or do I need a power steering pump as well?
Also I have a water leak from the oil cooler thermostat. I will get a new 1 obviously, but do I need to replace the oil cooler too?
Cheers shaggy
125 T 350 LWB 2003 *dead*
100 T 300 LWB 2002 *dead*
115 T 350 Trend Lwb 2011 *gone*
140 T 280 GLX MWB 2008
knobby1 wrote:
Water pump drive spline is probably toast...best to replace both the water pump and PAS pump as a pair, if one is worn, the other will be too. Oil cooler thermostat is often just an O-ring leaking. Oil cooler not required unless it's blown....this usually fills the coolng system with oil.
Lord Knobrot
5h4ggy wrote:Also dose is matter which fuild I use, I have no idea what's already in mine?
125 T 350 LWB 2003 *dead*
100 T 300 LWB 2002 *dead*
115 T 350 Trend Lwb 2011 *gone*
140 T 280 GLX MWB 2008
No clue not looked at it, I don't touch what isn't broken .knobby1 wrote:5h4ggy wrote:Also dose is matter which fuild I use, I have no idea what's already in mine?
125 T 350 LWB 2003 *dead*
100 T 300 LWB 2002 *dead*
115 T 350 Trend Lwb 2011 *gone*
140 T 280 GLX MWB 2008
Was the old fluid red or green..??
I don't think it really matters to be honest...my 2008 140 RWD had dirty green fluid in it when I first bought it in 2015, I changed one of the high pressure pipes due to a leak, I then cleaned, flushed and refilled the system with red ATF and it's been fine ever since.
Lord Knobrot
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