2011 Transit jumbo big end gone

[George Liquor]

Good afternoon everyone, just over 3 weeks ago i spent a few days working on my van in order to pass the mot, this involved new front brake pads and quite a bit of welding
as a good portion of the cills were rotten, i bought replacement cills from Mount Panels in Bramley Leeds, after doing all the work the van passed its mot on the friday. I was working in wakefield the following sunday and as i drove home i noticed a knocking sound from the engine no big bang or build up to this it just started knocking, i managed to get it home driving at low rpm's and once it cooled down i took the sump off to inspect the big ends, i found the third from the front had considerable play about 4mm swinging side to side i realised at that point the small metal flakes in the sump pan were white metal from the big end shells hmm, the rest of them seemed ok and the oil light went out as soon as the engine started so i thought maybe the journal is still ok and new shells and possibly an oil pump may sort it. Access to the big end is hampered by the ali plate with slots in that is part of the engine spacer luckily the big end in question is right above 2 of these slots so i stuffed the area with tissue and cut the metal out between the slots this gave me easy access to the big end. Upon removing the big end cap i saw that the journal was scored and the shells were beaten to the point where they were squeezing out between the rod and the crank web, well it so happens i have a new oil pump to hand along with quite a few other parts, another story, so i thought what the hell i bought some new shells ground half a millimeter off the flat side of the big end cap removing that crush surface making it smooth, i did this as the big end bore in the rod had become elongated by about that much. after this had been fitted along with the new oil pump and new oil and filter the old filter looked in a bad way, i started her up, OH well it was worth a try it was still knocking but not as bad, i now need a new crankshaft and have been looking on EB and found one for £235 have any of you any experience with these cranks are they any good? should i be looking at OEM. The oil pump that came off was the gear type and its replacement is the vane type if i go ahead with the crank replacement i will get a new gear type pump as i have heard horror stories regarding the vane type, also i will need a new rod which are not too expensive so the cost of repair wont be too eye watering if i do the work myself, i have new timing chain, sprockets and a new ford chain tensioner to hand also i have the uprated rocker ladder, im not sure if it was the oil pump that caused this as the light goes out and i hear the gear type are reliable for years though the van is 12 years old and has 104000 miles on it ex British rail van. I know there is a lot of work if i take this rout but it will save me a couple of grand when compared to a full engine swap. i read on here that it is recommended to remove the engine and gearbox together but i do not have room to do that and im sure with help i can manage it, any thoughts and tips on my situation would be appreciated. The van is the 100bhp model
George

[tranmx2]

Is it FWD or RWD? There's different methods on you tube for getting them out.

Why did the big end become damaged? Oil supply? if so you need to determine if there is a blockage in the supply route. Being number 3 a blockage is likely near to the big end as the others seem to be ok.
Was the eng oil changed regular? You won't know if it was when the van was with the previous owners. The damage could have been done previously.
You'll need to check the oil way and the turbo cartridge and the camshaft bearings.

RWD recon' engine cost me £3500 you need to take out the old engine and take off all the peripherals and put them onto the recon unit.
You'll need the same or equivelant coded engine (for the electronics to be suitable) - see recon engine web pages Ivan Searle London has a list. My old engine was DRRB the new one was CYR5.
Got my engine out by myself and using an engine crane and used an engine holder to take off /on the peripherals. Needed two persons to get the engine gearbox aligned.

Reground cranks need shells to fit the reground diameters.
Youtube vid shows the sproket had come off an oil pump.
You'll need to check the oil supply route to all engine parts is clear.

[knobby1]

Is it FWD or RWD?

Jumbo's don't come in FWD.

Lord Knobrot

[George Liquor]

I do not intend to buy a recon engine, ill just fit a new crank and rod with new shells, as i said i dont have room to pull the engine and box together but i can get help to pull just the engine, my question really was are the EB cranks any good as TPUK are out of oem cranks, thanks for your input Tranmx2 the engine was said to have been rebuilt when i bought the van in january it looked legit with all the new sealant visible on the joints, i also wondered about a local blockage a full crank change would sort that i think

[metalworker0]

Think you have to take a ball bearing or grub screw out of the end of the main gallery to clear it, When I last did an engine i injected paint stripper down it ... through the supply to the head at top the block..waited for 1 hour then put the pressure washer into it, observed clean water coming out of all the the crank journals ...i put paint stripper also into the crank ..followed by pipe cleaners ...then wd40'd it to make sure it did not flash rust inside the galleries ...this was a bare block no head, no oil pump or anything .and you have oil jets for each cylinder ..chain tensioner ..vacuum pump ...and the head.
Cleaning the crank out is very important in your case.

To do a proper job ...the thing is going to have to be stripped down to the bare block.
otherwise ...you may end up going through the whole engine failure thing again.

You'll need room to work ..clean places ..table tops ..kick the wife out of the kitchen

ignore the flash rust in this picture ...but that's how clean it has to be ..


all the best.mark