Mk6 fuel pump and EDC

[gsc1ugs]

Its a quick one, can the EDC on the pump be removed in situe? Also, can a good 2nd hand EDC be reprogrammed to vehicle?

[WheelyBigBox]

Yes and Yes.

In order to get at it, you'll have to remove the inlet manifold - which on the 2.4RWD can be a bit of a pig. You'll also need to remove the EGR. Once those are out the way you'll see the fuel pump quite easily. The EDV is the little box of wiazardry underneath the metal plate on top - remove the metal plate, then you have access to the EDC. Remove that very carefully as underneath it there is a plastic type electrical ribbon cable attached to a sensor further inside the pump. To remove that, you'll need a torx screwdriver (can't remember the size - soz) but it MUST be magnetic - if you drop a screw into the pump it's knackered (unless you can fish it back out with a small telescopic magnet?).

You can send the EDC to a guy on ebay for repair here in the UK. He can't always do it, sometimes they're too badly fried. However using a laptop, forscan software and the free licence that lets you use forscan for programming, you can indeed put another EDC back in (do not solder the wires - they must be crimped to avoid heat destroying the transistors inside the EDC) and virginise it so that it then locks itself onto your ECU / PCM. It's a bit of a faff so see the VP30 knowledge link in my signature.

[gsc1ugs]

Thank you for that, im just waiting for vlinker fs bluetooth adapter for forscan so i get correct codes

[knobby1]

Thank you for that, im just waiting for vlinker fs bluetooth adapter for forscan so i get correct codes

Do not get the bluetooth adapter, they can be flakey and the wireless version of Forscan has much less functionality than the real one. Get a proper USB cable for a windows laptop....

Lord Knobrot

[gsc1ugs]

It was on their site recommended - if EDU aint problem what next, loom is good, cut covers followed back to block next to fuse box continuity on all, another question is what should be 12v with ignition on pins are attached above

[gsc1ugs]

BE2020D7-4015-463E-A850-6C1C91919B6C.jpeg

[WheelyBigBox]

It was on their site recommended - if EDU aint problem what next

You need to read the codes - P1654 and P1664 I THINK were the ones for the fuel pump (been a while so forgive me if those are wrong).

To be honest though, it's a common failure. I'd be surprised if it was not the EDU.

Be warned, when removing it, you'll have to cut the connecting cables to it. On refitting, use bullet crimps on them - DO NOT SOLDER as the heat can destroy the newly replaced transistors (which in use, are cooled by the diesel itself).

See the link in my signature for more info.

[gsc1ugs]

It was on their site recommended - if EDU aint problem what next

You need to read the codes - P1654 and P1664 I THINK were the ones for the fuel pump (been a while so forgive me if those are wrong).

To be honest though, it's a common failure. I'd be surprised if it was not the EDU.

Be warned, when removing it, you'll have to cut the connecting cables to it. On refitting, use bullet crimps on them - DO NOT SOLDER as the heat can destroy the newly replaced transistors (which in use, are cooled by the diesel itself).

See the link in my signature for more info.

Well this has been off before see pic but noone went inside so its a mystery

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[WheelyBigBox]

How do you know they never opened it up inside?

Swapping EDUs is quite common. If you can find a known working one, why bother sending it off for a fix when you can just fit it and reprogram it!

[gsc1ugs]

How do you know they never opened it up inside?

Swapping EDUs is quite common. If you can find a known working one, why bother sending it off for a fix when you can just fit it and reprogram it!

Thats why

B821E381-236D-4556-88B4-C4318602EAD9.jpeg

[WheelyBigBox]

Fair point but when mine came back from the guy on ebay you couldn't see that he'd opened it either (though he did put a warranty sticker on it).

I suspect in your case, someone has just swapped out their dead EDU for a working one they found elsewhere.

[gsc1ugs]

Yea defo swapped - question is, if they come back and say its not broke what else could it be?

[WheelyBigBox]

What else could what be? - This is how you opened the thread:

Its a quick one, can the EDC on the pump be removed in situe? Also, can a good 2nd hand EDC be reprogrammed to vehicle?

I'm going to guess that your van isn't starting perhaps?

Could be anything - have you cranked it over, can you still hear compression or does it just spin freely with no effort?

I wouldn't worry about glow plugs too much - mine are all dead and have been for years. Still starts by the 4th turn of the engine, often on th 2nd (somewhat of a miracle really!)
#

Maybe you're down on power? - Could be the turbo.

If it's simply failing to start or it cut while running then yes, almost certainly the EDU on the pump but again, you need to get those fault codes out of the van.

Incidentaally, I'd replace that terminal block too. That plastic probably wasn't designed for automotive use (where heat can melt insulating plastics). I guess if it isn't melted then you could carry on using it but I used bullet crimps on mine though it was a pain to fit them to the wires still attached to the pump due to the short length and lack of space. I guess whatever works for you, just be sure that there isn't a short circuit occuring on that terminal block as that could potentially be another source of your unknown woes.

Oh and check the fuel filter too. Even if it's new, if it has a damaged seal it can play havoc with the van - we had a guy on here saying the seal round his filter had a small kink and once that was changed out, all his ASM and stalling woes were resolved.

[gsc1ugs]

I used it to tip, parked it up, plugged in my xtool D8 scanner to find out what was causing ABS light (wanted find which sensor had gone) xtool wouldnt read van, uplugged it, went to start van - NOTHING!!!
This is the current status before i took off ECU and sent away for repair - video below

https://youtube.com/shorts/ykCQsEf_SII?feature=share

[WheelyBigBox]

Hmm, could be anything then from an upset setting, a ECU that's got upset about a signal that's been wrong... anything.

The fuel pump is the usual suspect but given that you've plugged in and had failed communications that's another tin of worms that might have been opened.

Like I said, get plugged in with the ELM137 (ch390 i think) from tunnel rat electronics and use forscan. If the ECU and others are capable of communicating then they will with this and you'll see error codes. P1664 nd P1654 I think are the two you need to look for but even just one of them without the other can mean it's the fuel pump so if you don't have both, don't be surprised.

A year or two who there was a whole spate of fuel pump failures all over facebook, this group and anywhere else you could find a transiteer online. I've only been back on here about a week but it's definitely a lot quieter regarding fuel pumps than it was a while back even the facebook group isn't talking about them much.