Low Oil light after oil change - Mk6 24 DI RWD

[lozzahhh]

Hi All
just to let you all know I still have an outstanding issue with potential Crank position sensor/Fuel pump/EDU ( viewtopic.php?f=5&t=226737 ) Ive not been able to progress that much as I have a new problem.

I now have a low oil pressure light permanently on. It will still start and idle OK (I only let it do so for a few second).

The problem I mention in the previous post occured after I got a guy I knew out to do an oil and filter change on my drive, this is something I normally do on all my vehicles myself but the guy I know works full time servicng a large fleet of Mk6 and Mk7s that are still in use. The plan was to get him out to do the oil change, read the codes (as shown in related linked post ) and hopefully say "its a common problem, easily fixed just change that x, y or z bit" which I would do myself.

He left without much advice being offered. then after 15 miles of driving the oil light started flickering at idle which would go out when revved. Now the oil light is on permanently so the van is permanently on the drive. I cant investigate the original problem further until the oil light is fixed.

I thought the oil change and the detergents in the new oil may have dislodged some old crud which has clogged something so I changed the oil filter again yesterday, the oil looked ok. It made no difference to the oil warning light and the 15mile old one looked clean. While I was there I disconnected the oil pressure sensor from wire, the light went when removed which I think confirms the wire is likely OK.

Whilst under the van I noticed some pinky deposits on the bottom of the oil cooler and saw that the water level was low. I am guessing that the pinky crystal things on the oil cooler are from evaporated antifreeze.

IMG_20240616_151309.jpg

There are no signs of oil in water, or water in oil.

Are there any common reasons why I would get an oil warning light on soon after an oil and filter change?
Oil pickup blocked perhaps?
Oil pump knackered?
Is it related to oil cooler water leak despite no obvious signs of oil/water mixing?

Any ideas or best way forward would be appreciated.

Thanks

L

[metalworker0]

This is only theory, based on what ive read in your OLD posts ..because you don't give the whole history, so guessing .-
- well I've looked through your old posts and the van has over 200,000 on it.
and read about you asking what oil to use for oil change .

Suggests to me that that that oil change was the first oil change under your ownership

Meaning previous owner could have put in thicker non standard oil into it to disguise the oil light problem.. now you have the proper THIN OIL the problems are showing.

Oil cooler leak is common problem, cure is new oil cooler assembly ..people dont replace the gasket as only non ford gasket available......will this cure you oil light problem ..Don't know .

is you oil light problem caused by faulty sensor and not an oil pressure problem at all -- Don't know.

Read in this forum that some engines had very poorly made oil pumps, that are described as "Made of chocolate" Wear out internally which leads to low oil pressure, ..don't know if yours is one of the afflicted ones.

all the best.mark

[lozzahhh]

thanks mark.

yes, I've out around 10k on it since I have owned it. I should have done the oil change sooner. There is no smoke after the oil change that has as you suggest possibly thinner oil. so if there was a low oil pressure before I had it it prob wasnt valye guides or rings I am guessing.

Do I need to replace this then to probably fix the oil cooler leak? https://tpuk.net/transit-oil-cooler-rad ... asket.html In which case 4 bolts and refill cooling system? that doesnt seem too tricky,
correct?

I am guessing after 200k its probably not a chocolate oil pump.. I will try and do some research as to which models were affected. FYI mine is a 2006

[metalworker0]

its euro 5's after 2011.

so you're safe ..as regards oil pump failing prematurely

all the best.mark

[andz327]

Cheapest and easiest option is to replace pressure switch then take it from there

Sent from my SM-G990B using Tapatalk

[knobby1]

thanks mark.

yes, I've out around 10k on it since I have owned it. I should have done the oil change sooner. There is no smoke after the oil change that has as you suggest possibly thinner oil. so if there was a low oil pressure before I had it it prob wasnt valye guides or rings I am guessing.

Do I need to replace this then to probably fix the oil cooler leak? https://tpuk.net/transit-oil-cooler-rad ... asket.html In which case 4 bolts and refill cooling system? that doesnt seem too tricky,
correct?

I am guessing after 200k its probably not a chocolate oil pump.. I will try and do some research as to which models were affected. FYI mine is a 2006

As our Andz327 mentions...oil pressure switch....it is cheap and easy to do to rule it out...they can and do fail sometimes....might just be a coincidence with the oil/filter change. Checking the oil pressure wouldn't hurt either, some of us have fitted an oil pressure gauge to give us some indication. Oil pick-up in the sump would be my next guess if the switch doesn't solve your issue.

Lord Knobrot

[lozzahhh]

Well I've been busy and currently feeling dreadful as I've cAught vivid again, this time worse than previous infections but did find the energy to crawl underneath today and replace the oil pressure sensor.

Bingo.... It idled up to temp fine and a drive around the block with no problems.

I consider that problem fixed but I still need to fix the oil cooler water leak.

It starts first turn even with the fuse side for good plugs out, runs great from cold (idle and driving). Runs great when hot (idle and driving). Runs bad when restarted hot.

[lozzahhh]

Ps. Thanks and knobrot

[lozzahhh]

Just to update... the pinky crystals were from leaking coolant.

I fitted a replacement oil cooler thinking and reading that they can fail. I started it and the problem remained.

There was actually a tiny split in one of the hoses above the oil cooler. Replaced the hose and it stopped leaking. Hope this helps someone.

[knobby1]

Just to update... the pinky crystals were from leaking coolant.

I fitted a replacement oil cooler thinking and reading that they can fail. I started it and the problem remained.

There was actually a tiny split in one of the hoses above the oil cooler. Replaced the hose and it stopped leaking. Hope this helps someone.

When oil coolers fail, it usually fills the cooling system with oil. Oil pressure is always higher than coolant pressure when the engine is running.

Lord Knobrot