Gear Selector Linkage Disassembly

[Tassiebloke]

Hi Gents,

In the middle of replacing the clutch on my MK7 RWD 2.4

Need to replace the seal on the selector shaft, but have been stalled because of a cotter pin type connection.

Can anyone give some tips on how to remove this pin. As you can see from the photo, it appears to be sqr, and there is no retaining circlip on the underside of the pin.
I am pretty hesitant to put much more curry into driving to backwards with the hammer, for fear of damaging the selector shaft.

Thanks for any assistance in getting this off.

Cheers, Tim

[knobby1]

Hi Gents,

In the middle of replacing the clutch on my MK7 RWD 2.4

Need to replace the seal on the selector shaft, but have been stalled because of a cotter pin type connection.

Can anyone give some tips on how to remove this pin. As you can see from the photo, it appears to be sqr, and there is no retaining circlip on the underside of the pin.
I am pretty hesitant to put much more curry into driving to backwards with the hammer, for fear of damaging the selector shaft.

Thanks for any assistance in getting this off.

Cheers, Tim

With the nut off....(which it looks like you have done), the clevis pin should come out the opposite way...much like the old pushbike crankpins of many years ago...I'd put plenty of loose juice on it and refit the nut a few threads and give it a few healthy taps with a hammer....I don't think there is any other way to remove it. A bit of localised heat may help.

#7235 here:

https://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l ... OSsxMzM%3D

Lord Knobrot

[Tassiebloke]

Thanks Lordy,

Got it off, liberal dosage of Inox spray, left it a few hours and 1/2 dozen solid taps and it succumbed
That clevis pin is a master of over engineering, lovely complicated machining to serve to same purpose as a round section of material.

The seal itself was a bit more difficult to remove, as I could only really use a 1mm drill bit to make a hole in the seal and avoid the Gbox housing.

Whose ever idea it was to use 2 M10 headless bolts as a guide to get the gearbox back on should be given a slab of VB. Once aligned with the transmission jack, it slide like butter right up to the dowels, nipped up over the dowels and torqued up. I did it all on my back on the floor, and was a breeze. Torquing up the top 4 bolts is another story.