Transit Mk7 rear brake pipe?

[Nabla]

Hi,

Can anyone help me find a rear right brake pipe for my 2007 transit Mk7, 2.2 TCDi?

Have searched Eurocarparts and GsF car parts, using my reg, and they don't seem to have them.

They only have the rubber hoses, but I need the metallic pipe part, as it has corroded through.

The only place I can find that has them is Ebay. Usually I would be OK with Ebay parts for certain things, but a bit hesitant to source brake parts from there.

Anywhere else I can try, or can someone help me find the part number please?

Thanks

[knobby1]

Hi,

Can anyone help me find a rear right brake pipe for my 2007 transit Mk7, 2.2 TCDi?

Have searched Eurocarparts and GsF car parts, using my reg, and they don't seem to have them.

They only have the rubber hoses, but I need the metallic pipe part, as it has corroded through.

The only place I can find that has them is Ebay. Usually I would be OK with Ebay parts for certain things, but a bit hesitant to source brake parts from there.

Anywhere else I can try, or can someone help me find the part number please?

Thanks

Just get a roll of copper brake pipe and the appropriate fittings and make your own, much easier and cheaper. If you do buy the original Ford pipes, you'll probably never be able to fit them without some serious bending/twisting...(especially the front ones in the engine bay). I know you're just after the right rear. The pipes are fitted at the factory before any of the engine, running gear/suspension is fitted.

Which model do you have..?? LHD or RHD..?? SWB, MWB, LWB..?? They are all quite different.

You can even buy the OEM steel pipe by the meter from Ford.

http://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l= ... Q5MTIrMTMx

Lord Knobrot

[metalworker0]

What i used to do, before i had the tool which is called a "brake flaring tool", was take the old brake pipe to a local garage, who would copy it/ make a replica. that will be in copper/nickel ... the originals are steel. think all ebay ones will be copper/nickel as well unless used.
Note: some ... at the ford factory the brake pipe was put on before other stuff , sometimes making it impossible to put on in one piece without other stuff like fuel tank / exhaust etc to be taken off, so some are made in two pieces. and i don't know how ford would sell you the one that runs from front to back.


all the best.mark

[T350camper]

I bought a fairly cheap brake flaring tool some years ago...and a roll of copper pipe (as previously mentioned). Made plenty of brake pipes without any issue. If they run into an impossible place...just make a new pipe that runs a sensible route. As long as it is secure and not in danger of fouling anything, there's no problem with that...the fluid doesn't care which route it takes.

If the old unions are in good condition and you can't get replacements, cut the flared end off the pipe and retrieve them to use again (although that's really only necessary on old and obscure stuff...a modern Transit metric union should be readily available)

[dumper]

As above make your own to measure the pipe length get a length of cord / string or copper wire and run it along the pipe length trace all the bends and that will give you the length of pipe to cut .
One mistake we have all done is forgetting to put the fittings on the pipe before flaring the pipe

[Nabla]

Hi,

Can anyone help me find a rear right brake pipe for my 2007 transit Mk7, 2.2 TCDi?

Have searched Eurocarparts and GsF car parts, using my reg, and they don't seem to have them.

They only have the rubber hoses, but I need the metallic pipe part, as it has corroded through.

The only place I can find that has them is Ebay. Usually I would be OK with Ebay parts for certain things, but a bit hesitant to source brake parts from there.

Anywhere else I can try, or can someone help me find the part number please?

Thanks

Just get a roll of copper brake pipe and the appropriate fittings and make your own, much easier and cheaper. If you do buy the original Ford pipes, you'll probably never be able to fit them without some serious bending/twisting...(especially the front ones in the engine bay). I know you're just after the right rear. The pipes are fitted at the factory before any of the engine, running gear/suspension is fitted.

Which model do you have..?? LHD or RHD..?? SWB, MWB, LWB..?? They are all quite different.

You can even buy the OEM steel pipe by the meter from Ford.

http://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l= ... Q5MTIrMTMx

Lord Knobrot

Thank you very much.

I have RHD (UK), SWB, low roof version.

The part that needs replacing runs from the rear right brake caliper (connected by rubber hose), along the rear chassis cross member beam, to more than halfway along the width (closer to left side of van), where it then has a support, where the left brake pipe is clipped in alongside it on the chassis beam.

They then appear to run together for a short distance (maybe 600mm) where I beleive they then both have a junction with a pipe that runs from rear to front of the van.

So in total, for the rear metallic pipe part, I beleive it is about 2m long, and it luckily appears to be fairly accessible.

I'll try to upload some photos.

Some further questions based on all the responses:

Is copper/ nickel better than steel (Ford OEM) due to better corrosion resistance, or Ford use stainless steel?

If I buy a length of pipe, and cut/bend it, then do you know what fixings I need for each end, to connect to the hose and the junction with the other pipe?

Many thanks, for all the responses!

[Nabla]

Here are some photos.

IMG_20251006_181207.jpg

IMG_20251006_181216.jpg

IMG_20251006_181222.jpg

IMG_20251006_181301.jpg

It looks like there is a junction with another pipe here (running from rear to front) :

IMG_20251006_181328.jpg

[Nabla]

Another photo of where I think there is a junction:

IMG_20251006_181333.jpg

[metalworker0]

The ford one is steel because it probably needs to be because of rules and laws on manufacture of new cars, the copper nickel pipes need to be greased or waxoyled after being fitted as they will turn green.

With the copper nickel pipe it is easy to form the flares on the cheaper machines ... the steel pipe needs more expensive heavier duty machine to form them like Sykes Pickavant - Sykes make the best ones in my opinion.

I don't think anyone sells aftermarket steel pipes

The fittings off your old one will fit the new pipes .... but if they are corroded need to be replaced.

A car spares place like Euro Car parts or GSF or Halfords should be able to match the nipples / fittings.

a typical sykes flaring kit will have to contain at minimum dies and punches marked as 3/16ths is common to most cars and is also known as 4.75mm (sykes call it 5mm in older sets)

Split dies - (3/16/4.75mm)
1st OP pinches (3/16 / 4.75mm)
2nd OP punches (3/16- 4.75mm)
the machine
Instructions

other sets will contain more dies and punches of different sizes , some of which you may never use


Note: making good flares requires practice and patience - a machine will not make good flares if you don't put some effort and thinking into it, that means not sticking any old badly cut malformed burred piece of copper into it, or not lining things up correctly - the copper requires preparation - de-burring - forming surfaces have to be lubed - knowing how much pressure to apply - practice makes perfect with these machines - read the instructions carefully.

Note: The finished flare is the basic form - Fastening and tightening your newly made brake pipes into position on the vehicle could be called OP3 as then the flare takes its final form.

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

The bit you are trying to show is like a double flexible rubber brake pipe with fittings on the ends .. if badly corroded or it has to be damaged when removing the pipe - will have to be replaced.

You can see it here on the diagram

http://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l= ... Q5MTIrMTMx

There are several versions of it for various transits ... listed when you press on the link "2282A" in the diagram, so i cant steer you to the right one ... that is your decision

These are about £35 on ebay

all the best.mark

[knobby1]

If one of the steel brakes pipes is rusted through...chances are...they're all on their way....best to check them all before it leaves you stranded with no brakes...we've had chaps with lost brakes and lost power steering because of lines rusted through.

Lord Knobrot