P2598 Turbo stuck low

[mr_miyagi]

Hi Guys,

I have a 2012 140 sport 2.2. It's showing error code 2598 turbo stuck low and reduces power. It's not on when I start it and I can drive round the village roads ok but when I get out onto the main road and hold a steady throttle in the speed limit then it comes on. I had the actuator off and flipped the cap. The gears are fine but a little dry, so I cleaned them up as best I could and put a dab of copper slip on. The vanes in the turbo move freely with no sticking at all. I checked the wiring and all seemed good and the connector was on good. Put it all back together with a dab of copper slip in the ends of the actuator arm. It was fine for about three weeks, now it's started again.

I've done some searching and read of some people replacing the actuator only for the problem to continue. Is there anything else I can be taking a look at that might cause problems before I commit to spending some cash? The only thing I've noticed is that it sometimes smells oily as though it's breathing heavy. That smell you get with a high mileage motor that's starting to burn oil but it doesn't smoke. The injectors were replaced recently and coded in. I'm wondering if the seats were re-cut properly and I'm getting some blow-by, but would that cause the turbo issues.

Any suggestions?

[metalworker0]

no good asking for picture of the inside of the little gearbox, cause you slathered it with copper grease .

but suspect that is at fault .. or the encoder .. the little disc in there, that tells the PCM where it is.

not sure if the electrical conducting properties of copper grease would mess up the encoder working.

also the variable vanes can stick in the turbo itself


all the best.mark

[tranmx2]

AI 2012 Ford Transit 2.2 TDCi is fitted with a Garrett GTB1749VK - maybe true.

2012 3.5 2.2 RWD The harness runs under the alternator up the back of the alt' to the top of the engine where part of the harness goes down to the starter and the other over the thermo to the PCM.
Rubbing insulation, broken wire strands, contact deteriation, tracking.
Could be V loss from the PCM to the turbo actuator - not causing the motor to move the Vanes sufficiently. Vanes sticking when cold.
Sometimes required info can be found with the manufacturer of the turbo or and the actuator.
Likely 12V to the motor 5 V to from the position indicator/encoder/disc/CIPOS sensor. Wear where the disc is located. Calibration of the position of the motor/gear to the PCM. Elecrical/tronic resistance, position signal of the acutator to the PCM.
Lots of vids and info re' workings of NVT also called NGT, most show the mechanics of the NVT.
Might get info - pay for it - from motorcraft wiring diag's.

Need to know V on which wire, connector pins/unit.

Ash build in the DPF, collapsed catalytic.



Electric leakage/tracking.
As metalworker points out - copper is an electrical conductor - likely the motor is sealed from the gears.

The motor moves the arm/vanes about 10 mm.

[sandancers]

We had exactly the same problem, turned out to be a faulty injector.

We got the same symptoms and codes, replaced the actuator with a genuine one from the manufacturer, no different. Ford garage said turbo gone, but like yours no wobble on turbine and vanes not sticking at all, but out of desperation got new turbo, no different !

After a while started getting black smoke from exhaust. Also noticed via Forscan that the exhaust temps were higher than they should be.

Took it to an old style Ford tech and they replaced the injector and all is now well.

[mr_miyagi]

Thanks for the replies.

Injectors were new just a few months ago so I'd be miffed if it's that. I didn't put a lot of grease on the gears, just a small dab. I've run the live data in Forscan and when it's cold on start up it shows the desired actuator position to be 80.01 % and the measured position to be just under that at 79 and a bit %. The output is 0.0 on tickover. If I blip the throttle it comes back to the same figures each time. However, when it's warmed up the measured position drops to just above 74 % and if I blip it the output doesn't always return to 0.0 it sometimes dances about in the minuses and then eventually returns to 0.0 The vanes are nice and free, if anything a little loose to be fair so can't see it being that.

Ford only sell a complete turbo and of the places that sell just the actuator most want the number off the old unit to match it up, something to do with software. Trouble is there's no numbers at all anywhere on the old unit.

Autodoc sell an actuator based on my reg number so what do I do. Take a gamble and buy one. Is it just a straight replacement or does something need coding in like when the injectors were replaced?

[tranmx2]

cold idle.PNG

op temp 1900 rpm .JPG

op temp rpm 1300 .JPG

pre start.PNG

at 978 rpm 11 C ECT 78% NVT.
Pre start 0 rpm 11 C ECT 25% NVT.
1961 rpm 73 C ECT 33% NVT.

The position of the NVT is going to change and may not be totally rpm reliant.

Done 3 yrs ago. Expect indicators to settle after quick activation. You've eleminated some possible causes of the problem - can but be only a few left.
Did read somewhere that turbo actuators need to be calibrated - don't know what it refered to.
Forscan might have the means - if it is needed. Have a look on Forscan forum and info'.
The 2011 to 2014 transits fuel injectors don't need to be calibrated - there's no code on the injectors that are on the 2012 that I have.
A poor electrical contact could give the wrong reading.
The green wire on the bottom of the connector to the actuator on mine had isulation missing - in the dry likely not a problem - in the misty damp or rain could be a problem. In the mist the water particles can be seen floating about. If the van is left in the mist it is covered in a film of water.
Dirt and mist can lead to electrical tracking.

[metalworker0]

with these things i wonder if the code come from just boost pressure .. and it makes its mind up that is at fault and points you to the actuator or vanes

when the main fault could be stuck EGR or boost leaks through pipes

in which case monitor the Egr , and see if its closed as it should be during acceleration

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

And i'll tell you how confusing and misleading these fault codes can be

its been discovered that a ford engine . the DOHC engine in 16 valve TDCI transit connect amongst others ... will chuck up two fault codes for air flow and air inlet circuit, that turns out to be a worn timing chain that joins the two camshafts together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ow2r0tBFWLw

so by those standards .. it could be anything!

take no notice of him blabbering on about the availability of chains .. ive just put the link to an example of fault codes that say one thing and its something else

all the best.mark

[mr_miyagi]

The plot thickens.

I've been trying to find what actuator it needs, to see what the prices are like. Everyone wants to know the numbers on it and guess what, there aren't any numbers on it. Probably been replaced at some point with an aftermarket one. The turbo is a 787312-2 serial number 40295 and it's a 2012 fwd 2.2 140 sport. I getting back from my searches a G-33 6NW 009 206, or a G-59 6NW 009 550.

The EGR's been deleted in the PCM and blocked off. The DPF and 5th injector were new at the same time as the fuel injectors a few months ago.

[sandancers]

cold idle.PNG

op temp 1900 rpm .JPG

op temp rpm 1300 .JPG

pre start.PNG

at 978 rpm 11 C ECT 78% NVT.
Pre start 0 rpm 11 C ECT 25% NVT.
1961 rpm 73 C ECT 33% NVT.

The position of the NVT is going to change and may not be totally rpm reliant.

Done 3 yrs ago. Expect indicators to settle after quick activation. You've eleminated some possible causes of the problem - can but be only a few left.
Did read somewhere that turbo actuators need to be calibrated - don't know what it refered to.
Forscan might have the means - if it is needed. Have a look on Forscan forum and info'.
The 2011 to 2014 transits fuel injectors don't need to be calibrated - there's no code on the injectors that are on the 2012 that I have.
A poor electrical contact could give the wrong reading.
The green wire on the bottom of the connector to the actuator on mine had isulation missing - in the dry likely not a problem - in the misty damp or rain could be a problem. In the mist the water particles can be seen floating about. If the van is left in the mist it is covered in a film of water.
Dirt and mist can lead to electrical tracking.

Looking at your pictures. The DPF temperatures look way low for what they should be. Unless the screen shots were taken when the engine was on an overrun while going downhill !

[tranmx2]

Unless the screen shots were taken when the engine was on an overrun while going downhill ! Yes likely on the slght downhill part for the middle two images, but not overrun.