Mk7 RWD Single wheel rear bearing nut.

[Colin K]

Hello,
I have replaced all of my bearings, brakes discs etc on my old girl. The rear sound like they are rumbling a bit have done @3000 miles since renewing them.

I googled rebuilding them fitted new bearings and nuts and treated myself to the huge socket (65mm) ? See that the torque is @430 ish NM and most folk said get a bloody long bar and sit on it which is what I did with my 14 stone bulk.

Is it possible to over tighten them at all ? did anyone know I guess if not then perhaps I should look at the prop for the noise have changed one of the three u/j's over the years.

Cheers, Col.

[dumper]

Yes that’s why you should use a torque wrench

[knobby1]

Hello,
I have replaced all of my bearings, brakes discs etc on my old girl. The rear sound like they are rumbling a bit have done @3000 miles since renewing them.

I googled rebuilding them fitted new bearings and nuts and treated myself to the huge socket (65mm) ? See that the torque is @430 ish NM and most folk said get a bloody long bar and sit on it which is what I did with my 14 stone bulk.

Is it possible to over tighten them at all ? did anyone know I guess if not then perhaps I should look at the prop for the noise have changed one of the three u/j's over the years.

Cheers, Col.

Might not actually be the wheel bearings, could be propshaft, diff or pinion bearings.

Did you get a genuine bearing set which includes the centre spacer..?? Were the outer races replaced in the hub as well..??

Sometimes non-genuine bearings have slightly different spacing between them...these tapered roller bearings use a solid spacer between them to keep a uniform space or preload on the bearings, if the spacer is not the exact correct size, it will cause premature wear of the bearings.

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

[Colin K]

Hello,
I have replaced all of my bearings, brakes discs etc on my old girl. The rear sound like they are rumbling a bit have done @3000 miles since renewing them.

I googled rebuilding them fitted new bearings and nuts and treated myself to the huge socket (65mm) ? See that the torque is @430 ish NM and most folk said get a bloody long bar and sit on it which is what I did with my 14 stone bulk.

Is it possible to over tighten them at all ? did anyone know I guess if not then perhaps I should look at the prop for the noise have changed one of the three u/j's over the years.

Cheers, Col.

Might not actually be the wheel bearings, could be propshaft, diff or pinion bearings.

Did you get a genuine bearing set which includes the centre spacer..?? Were the outer races replaced in the hub as well..??

Sometimes non-genuine bearings have slightly different spacing between them...these tapered roller bearings use a solid spacer between them to keep a uniform space or preload on the bearings, if the spacer is not the exact correct size, it will cause premature wear of the bearings.

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

Hello chum thanks for the reply. Yes changed the outer races as well complete with spacers.

You are right and its amazing how a noise travels along the drive. I recon at the weekend (blooming -4 here at the mo) I'm going to have the whole prop shaft off and replace all of the U/J's to get that done. Years ago I did take it off and found that centre bolt loose the one with e flimsy tag to lock it. Already replaced the hanging bearings not that long ago.

Actually just thinking now this afternoon we jacked up the rear wheels one by one and ran her in second and could hear the noise which was exactly the same both sides !!!!

My bloomig Torque wrench only goes up to 300NM hence i googled what others had done and many used a tommy bar a lot longer than mine.

Appreciate your advise as always.

All the best, Col.

[knobby1]

Hello chum thanks for the reply. Yes changed the outer races as well complete with spacers.

You are right and its amazing how a noise travels along the drive. I recon at the weekend (blooming -4 here at the mo) I'm going to have the whole prop shaft off and replace all of the U/J's to get that done. Years ago I did take it off and found that centre bolt loose the one with e flimsy tag to lock it. Already replaced the hanging bearings not that long ago.

Actually just thinking now this afternoon we jacked up the rear wheels one by one and ran her in second and could hear the noise which was exactly the same both sides !!!!

My bloomig Torque wrench only goes up to 300NM hence i googled what others had done and many used a tommy bar a lot longer than mine.

Appreciate your advise as always.

All the best, Col.

Were they "Genuine Ford Bearings"..?? We've found aftermarket ones just aren't as good.

With the torque wrench you can do the calculation to see what length bar and what weight to use... You don't actually need a proper torque wrench, just a bit of maths..

As an example: 430nm is easy using a 1meter bar....only 44kg or about 97lbs using a 1 meter bar is needed, or half that weight using a 2 meter bar.. 100nm is 10.2kg or 22.5lbs @ 1meter.

The conversion factor is actually fairly simple, essentially gravity (9.8m s/sq) times the distance....1kg = 9.8 newtons....so 1kg at 1 meter from the axis will be 9.8nm, not withstanding the weight of the bar of course.

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

[bortaf]

I've not done one for a while but back when i did them fairly regular i found the make of the bearing was more important than the torque, cheap ones came back, ford ones didn't, never owned a torque wrench that would go over 350ish, one tip is dont use a breaker bar, they flex way too much IME.