Starter motor connection issue

[mikeyboytransit]

Hello and thanks for your time.

I have been having an issue every since I took my van to have a new clutch, flywheel and starter motor fitted by a ford specialist garage in Caton, Lancaster. It was all fitted and then about 1 month after I started having issues with starting the van. Turning it with no cranking. It left me stranded for 2 days in the snow in November. I finally found out what it was. The cables connecting to the starter motor were loose. So i just wiggledthem and the van started. After i tighened the nut as best i could. However iv always had this same intermittentstarting problem since then. Its now 18 months after and i cant start the van again. I went to check this same connection and its loose. So i wanted to take it off, clean it all and put it right. However, the nut won't come off. Its just keeps going round on the bolt. To me it looks like they have bodged it or something because a month or so before I took it too them I changed the starter motor myself and had no trouble undoing this nut.

Any suggestions on how I can take this off because it won't tighten up either.

Many thanks

[trnx]

If the stud is not turning.
Assuming it is 2 nuts.
Use 2 spanners that fit. The inner spanner may need to be ground to make it fit the inner nut. The two nuts could be tightened together so they'll need to be undone. A nut spliter / oscilating cutter can be used to remove the nuts.
If the stud is turning or the two nuts cannot be seperated the nuts can be cut. There are nut spliters also an oscilating cutter could be used.
If you can't get in there with the motor in situ the leads shall need to be cut to facilitate the removal of the motor so as to access the problem.

A metal wedge could be pushed in to tighten the contact between the connectors. If the stud revovles this method may or may not work as the contact within the unit maybe broken to the stud.

[mikeyboytransit]

Thanks for your reply. Yes the stud moves with the nuts.
If I needed to cut the wires would it be much of a job to put new wires in to replace them?

[T350camper]

Totally agree with trnx regarding the 2 nuts. If you can't get them off (and depending on access) then after disconnecting the battery, try holding the end of the stud in mole grips while you undo the nuts. You're going to have to replace the solenoid anyway by the sounds of it. Plenty of penetrating oil and some patience will be required (probably some swearing too). Failing all else, you'd be better grinding off the nuts and/or stud rather than cutting cables. If the stud is turning then the plastic inside the solenoid housing is damaged and that needs to be changed anyway. A local repairer will fix the starter cheaper than buying a new one. It was probably damaged when it was removed for the clutch and that's why they couldn't tighten it up again afterwards. Shame they didn't just fix it there and then.

[bortaf]

What happens is, if the connection is loose, it heats up and melts the plastic inside the solenoid where the stud is captured so it spins, when it spins it loosens the connection inside the solenoid so no matter how tight it is outside it's still loose inside.
sometimes you can lube the thread well and as you try and turn the nut if you lever the wire conection (pull on the wire) i "may" come undone, if not mole grips or keep turning the nut till the stud breaks out the solenoid, it's fooked anyway so no issues there, allways try and brake what's already broken if possable .

[trnx]

Thanks for your reply. Yes the stud moves with the nuts.
If I needed to cut the wires would it be much of a job to put new wires in to replace them?

As the stud is loose - cut the nuts - as suggested use molegrips or the like to restrain the stud - you might find the outer nut can undo. Then do the inner nut.
Failing that cut the nuts, a grinderete with a cutting disc may not be got in. A dremel with a cutting disc/abrasive or toothed is likely to be got in there if not use an oscilating tool which may be better than the reciprocating chisel type. The stud shall need to be held firm.