Choosing parts; Ford, OEM, aftermarket, brands, quality, etc

[Sports140]

Hi everyone / anyone !

I've been making shopping lists, falling into the parts rabbit hole, and pondering about the choices when selecting parts.

I know there's solid consensus on only getting original Ford parts for certain things critical high performance low tolerance parts, like SCV and PRV, HP pump i would assume. Also injectors and fuel filter, but there I know the producer is no secret, so we can basically get Denso injectors anywhere, and not have to pay extra £$€ from getting it from a Ford dealership. I read someone on here saying the fuel filters are Mann filters (just without all those Ford instructions printed on), so you could buy a Mann aftermarket filter instead (which in my part of the world are almost 1/3 of what my local Ford dealership asks for the filter)).

What other parts should ideally always be original Ford? Does anybody know who the OEM manufacturer is for any of those parts?

Having given Ford a bit of my patronage lately, I wouldn't mind saving my beat up wallet by some smart choices ahead

For low tolerance mechanical parts, like wheel bearings, can aftermarket brands be good enough, equal, or even better? How do typically trusted brands like FAG compare?
I guess for more "basic" bits like tie rods or brake discs it's pretty open?
On sensors, are there a few brands that can be trusted, or does it vary a lot from specific sensor to sensor?

Curious about peoples knowledge, experience and opinions when it comes to parts and brands. Hoping a lot of people can weigh in here.
Maybe in the end I could try and compile some sort of guide when it comes to parts and sources



PS; Also curious about reconditioned old parts, and good reconditioners. Recently I learned that the local diesel specialist I was recommended that knew "all there is to know" about such, and could restore any injector etc, had shut down 20 years ago! It seems I might have to ship things to either Germany or the UK to get them done up.
I might be getting a little "Transit-Mad" lately, considering getting two more identical vans which I'm gonna look at tomorrow. In any case, I bought a set of used injectors, a hp pump and the fuel rail, coming off a rust hulk decommissioned in 2020 but having only run about 50k miles. Could perhaps the fuel rail have rusted internally, and need reconditioning, or maybe be too risky to ever put in use? It looks to have been stored with all five openings unprotected (still got a frp sensor and a prv in worst case;) Would the hp pump most likely need reconditioned? (looks like it's been stored with the LP intake and return open, but some masking tape put over the HP exit) Would a hp pump need to be "virginised" in order for it to program to a new van? Lastly, I can actually read the 16 digit factor codes on top of all four injectors! Could these potentially be used as they are, or would the codes be "obsolete" from the 50k miles of usage?

Cheers, McGilvray

[metalworker0]

Thats easy .. as ive made the post before and here it is

I now look all over the place.. mainly ebay .
Rule 1 - look for genuine brand new ford parts and find the cheapest - note part number instructions below.
Rule 2 if that cannot be done or too expensive,look for new branded parts from manufacturers you recognise as being good - a lot of these don't do some things but do others ..but some will. but this list you should keep to help you get quality parts.

Borg and Beck
Delphi
Dayco
Pierburg
Gates
Valeo
Lochhead
Girling
Continental
Elring
Meyle
Payen
EBC
Brenbo
Mann
bosch
Denso
Sachs
Febi Bilstein
Fag
DID
NSK
SKF
NTK
Timken
Valeo
Monroe
NGK
IWIS
Garrett
Mintex
Siemens
First Line
Ferodo
AP


Also genuine ford parts can sometimes be called ..
motorcraft
fomoco

for even older ford parts ENFO written in ford script stands for "English Ford" a lot of people think its ENOTS but they are wrong

when you do the search ,,,put brand in the search title and tick the box that says "include description"

The exploded parts diagrams and part numbers are at "catcar info"
https://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en

so it works well to, just put the "part number" into ebay followed by "ford" and tick that box "include description"

also anything Japanese is good, Taiwanese is also good.



all the best./mark

[Sports140]

Great! That's quite the list of dependable brands! Many familiar, but many new to me too!
Maybe we could even try halfway order/rank them (in some unprecise general manner;)

It would probably be nice to have a similar list of avoiders too
Could perhaps Ridex, Topran, NTY, Stark, Fast, NTN/SNR and Febest be a start to such a list?

Would you by any chance have an opinion on Era, Facet, Hella, Magneti Marelli or Vemo? (for sensors particularily, I was considering all of them for a camshaft sensor. Was also trying to choose between Meyle, Valeo, Hella, Febi and Era for a crankshaft sensor. (and either Meyle or Era for an ignition switch.))

I've been trying to figure out who the OEM producers for crankshaft and camshaft sensors are, so far without luck. Also don't know about the ignition switch, but recon that's a fairly basic part, so it doesn't matter so much.
I believe bosch might be responsible for OEM MAP sensor, and maybe Hitachi do the OEM MAF sensor? (got this from a Land Rover forum, as the defender was fitted with the same engine, but may not be applicable)

Any opinion on any of these: Blue Print, Meat & Doria, Quinton Hazell, Esen SKV, Metzger, Hoffer, Bremi, Wagner, Abakus, PREXAparts, NRF, DT spare parts, AIC, Aplha e-Parts, Calorstat by Vernet, EPS, Triscan, FAE, (am I getting below the tip of the iceberg? hah;)

All japanese and taiwanese, or any exceptions?
I can think of Kamoka, Hitachi, JPN (I always thought they were at least;) top of my head

I guess there are three categories, roughly: Nr.1; Excellent (OEM, equivalent, or better(!)), Nr.2; "Oll Korrekt" (comfortably dependable), Nr.3; FUBAR (roll of the dice (or worse!))

A bit on the edge of this topic, but the Ford spec motor oil type, Ford WSS-M2C913-C, also has variations with the last letter being A, B or D. Is it an evolution in the spec, a sort of hierarchy, where D is the newest, and therefore also backwards compatible with A, B or C?
I was looking at some dirt cheap Mannol oil and thinking "why not?". Also had the potentially retarded idea to maybe balance any lack in quality by mixing it say 5+2, with 2 being some fancier oil like Total. (I'll be changing oil and filters about 4-6 times a year if keeping the 6k miles interval
https://www.autodoc.co.no/mannol/15479967

Maybe off-topic, but I was wondering about how you'll sometimes see close variations of an original parts number listed as applicable for a specific part, usually with just the final digit/letter being different. For instance with injectors on my van, both these seem to apply:
6C1Q-9K546-BC
6C1Q-9K546-BB
I would assume there must be some kind of difference implied in that last letter, but no idea. Anyone?

The ones that came with my van originally were "BC", they had this parts number written along the side, but the new ones I bought were "BB", they had the "DCRI107060" Denso parts code written where the BC ones had the 6C1Q... Ford parts code. I guess for that last difference it makes sense, since the injectors are used for more brands than just Ford, so rather refer to the Denso product number.

Cheers, McGilvray

[andz327]

just use your original fuel rail they dont wear out its just the prv you'll need to change if any problems that way no worries about anything in one that been lying about
lately borg and beck ball joints have let me me down a few times now , although I still use either Borg and Beck or QH clutch kits as have had problems with LUK


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[DanMK7uk]

Anything critical I use ford genuine generally..Fuel filters ford usually but mann have also been fine.

Fuel system bits oem, stuff like bearings, suspension etc iv used plenty of non oem stuff.

The biggest risks being Iv actually got 2 x TPUK turbos on my two mk7s not had any problems with either, I do keep a close eye on them for signs of play every service however.

To note they are not twin turbos lol thats the sort of thing Knobby would likely do !

I suppose ultimately it comes down to cost and availability..
Some things can take a while to come in at ford and prices can be heavy. How they justify what the charge for injectors seals for example..

[gt_addict]

Personally I use the following:-

Bosch - Filters, brakes, sensors
Lemforder - suspension components
Delphi - suspension components
SKF - wheel bearings/driveshafts/suspension
Castrol Oil always

Ford, I do use for some components that are hard to find or if they are similar in cost. Such as a set of fuel lines from filter to pump on my EU5 2.2. I could not find an aftermarket supplier. Or if they do a “service kit” which includes all filters and oil for less than just the filters from my local auto factors.

[dumper]

Yes agree with gt and Dan manly but wouldn’t use Lemforder not on transits but psv,s at work they seemed cheap and nasty and didn’t last like other makes

[gt_addict]

Maybe lemforder have changed then. I used to use them on my little transit connect and a set of ARB links lasted 6years until I scrapped the van.

[dumper]

I’m going back from 2001 up to 2016 when I retired the only good thing about them was the kingpins never got the chance to seize in so they may have got better since

[bortaf]

if your buying online (egay or rainforest) here's a tip, put the item in your watch/basket/wish/shopping list and give it a few days, chances are you'll get a 5 or 10% off offer, i just did it with 4 elring injector seal kits, got 10% off the vendor AND £5 voucher from ebay, listed price was £45 ended up paying £35, every little bit helps and if your long term planning it deffinatly all adds up.

[DanMK7uk]

if your buying online (egay or rainforest) here's a tip, put the item in your watch/basket/wish/shopping list and give it a few days, chances are you'll get a 5 or 10% off offer, i just did it with 4 elring injector seal kits, got 10% off the vendor AND £5 voucher from ebay, listed price was £45 ended up paying £35, every little bit helps and if your long term planning it deffinatly all adds up.

Good one that

[marc1234567]

Thats easy .. as ive made the post before and here it is

I now look all over the place.. mainly ebay .
Rule 1 - look for genuine brand new ford parts and find the cheapest - note part number instructions below.
Rule 2 if that cannot be done or too expensive,look for new branded parts from manufacturers you recognise as being good - a lot of these don't do some things but do others ..but some will. but this list you should keep to help you get quality parts.

Borg and Beck
Delphi
Dayco
Pierburg
Gates
Valeo
Lochhead
Girling
Continental
Elring
Meyle
Payen
EBC
Brenbo
Mann
bosch
Denso
Sachs
Febi Bilstein
Fag
DID
NSK
SKF
NTK
Timken
Valeo
Monroe
NGK
IWIS
Garrett
Mintex
Siemens
First Line
Ferodo
AP


Also genuine ford parts can sometimes be called ..
motorcraft
fomoco

for even older ford parts ENFO written in ford script stands for "English Ford" a lot of people think its ENOTS but they are wrong

when you do the search ,,,put brand in the search title and tick the box that says "include description"

The exploded parts diagrams and part numbers are at "catcar info"
https://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en

so it works well to, just put the "part number" into ebay followed by "ford" and tick that box "include description"

also anything Japanese is good, Taiwanese is also good.



all the best./mark

I noticed camshaft sprockets on my mk7 euro 5 had fomoco on