Loud noise when driving

[avromo]

i have a mk6 rwd 2.4 90bhp. it is very loud when going at around 40-60 like a booming sound,by the time gets up to 70 (yes it gets there eventually) is quieter, also when turn steering wheel slightly seems to be quieter, i thought it was the engine but from the fact that it goes quieter at speed and when turning the steering wheel it would seem to be something pressing against something or can someone else offer an opinion?

many thanks

[metalworker0]

Front wheel bearings
Jack up each front wheel in turn.
Try to rock, pull push with both hands in 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock position, there should be minimum of rock. and no clicking

Spin the wheel, it should be smooth sounding with no roar......if there is a roar , may be a wheel bearing.
This is what you have to do, to find this out ..there is no other method ...that's the method a garage would use.
Then if you find nothing wrong .move onto other things.
But being a RWD ...there isn't many other things left.
Examine tyres for defects and wear, check pressures.
Look at condition of brake disks and pads. the whole surface of the disk should be silver looking with no deep scoring on both sides, tin shield around the disk should not be scrapping on the disk.
all the best.mark

[avromo]

it is the wheel bearings, i suspect the hub nut was not tightened up properly last time someone tried to change the discs!

are the bearings easy to change? any guidance pls and what speciailst equipment needed and which bearings to buy ? thanks

[avromo]

can anyone help with changing wheel bearings and recommendations of brand to buy? thanks

[scas]

use only genuine bearings as theyre a bit of a faf to change. takes about an hour. wheel off. pads out. caliper off. big center nut off, if it has abs, sensor disconnected. thing big nut screwed to off. loosen the 13mm nuts that connect disc, take out torx bolts thru holes in the hub, they can be tight, use a good socket.
there are various ways to separate the hub from the knuckle, my prefered way is a hammer and bolster between the hub and knuckle until it moves a millimeter. then a 4 foot prybar front and back between the hub and knuckle- separates them in about 30 seconds.then take out the 13mm bolts you loosened.
3 options now, either grind the bearing off and press, not drift, the new bearing on or buy a bearing with the flange attached. then stick it all back together, or a garage will charge about 100 quid labour.

[avromo]

use only genuine bearings as theyre a bit of a faf to change. takes about an hour. wheel off. pads out. caliper off. big center nut off, if it has abs, sensor disconnected. thing big nut screwed to off. loosen the 13mm nuts that connect disc, take out torx bolts thru holes in the hub, they can be tight, use a good socket.
there are various ways to separate the hub from the knuckle, my prefered way is a hammer and bolster between the hub and knuckle until it moves a millimeter. then a 4 foot prybar front and back between the hub and knuckle- separates them in about 30 seconds.then take out the 13mm bolts you loosened.
3 options now, either grind the bearing off and press, not drift, the new bearing on or buy a bearing with the flange attached. then stick it all back together, or a garage will charge about 100 quid labour.

thanks, so none of the below is recommended?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272998885981 ... R5Du8tnlYQ

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325389901883 ... R6aP7dnlYQ

also i am not quite sure of the dif between hub, knuckle. flange and bearing ? can anyone excuse my ignorance and pls explain?

[scas]

Knuckle is the bit that the shock and hub bolt to, hub is the flange, disc and bearing, and flange is the bit that the wheel bolts to

[avromo]

Knuckle is the bit that the shock and hub bolt to, hub is the flange, disc and bearing, and flange is the bit that the wheel bolts to

thanks, can u recommend any of the ebay ones, i prob wont keep the van going long term and cover 5k miles p.a, one of them looks like it even has the bearing pressed on already?

[firewalker]

For what it's worth I've used this seller before without any problems:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272998885981 ... 18&mkevt=1

Looking at the same job myself - different noise to yours and just waiting to identify which wheel could be the problem, my mechanic reckons they're a b******* on the front.

[avromo]

thanks, i understand its important to get the torque correct on the driveshaft nut, what do ppl use for this ? torque wrench i have access to does not go that high ?

[scas]

Just hang out of the ratchet with a 3 foot extension on it, I've never even heard of one coming loose.

[knobby1]

thanks, i understand its important to get the torque correct on the driveshaft nut, what do ppl use for this ? torque wrench i have access to does not go that high ?

RWD's don't have front "driveshafts" as such. If you don't have the proper tools to do the job, take it to someone who has.

Front axle nut torque is the least of your problems, if you don't have a decent press to get the hub out of the bearing and refit the hub into the new bearing, you'll struggle. Some have used a decent sized lump hammer but there's a chance you can damage the bearing in the process.

Lord Knobrot

[scas]

As above, all the big nut does is hold on the abs ring, or nothing if you have no abs. As knobby says, at least you'll need a press, dirty big pry bar, an angle grinder and a decent set of long reach torx sockets. Its not a difficult job, but a garage may be cheaper

[richardstubbs]

As above, all the big nut does is hold on the abs ring, or nothing if you have no abs.

Not strictly true, it preloads the bearing. If it isn't tight enough the bearing will wear prematurely and eventually spin on the hub. Ask me how I know (not my fault, I bought it like that. Found out in La Rochelle).

Having said that, F tight is good enough because the preload is set by the precise grind of the bearing inner races where they touch, not how tight the nut it. I figure that as it needs to be tightened to 300 lb/ft - I'm 150lb ish, and my 3/4" t-bar is about 2' long. So I stand on the end of it and bounce a little bit. Fine for the last five years, plus it's a FWD so there are reversal loads which the RWD doesn't have.

You definitely need a 3/4" drive socket and t-bar. A good long-reach Torx bit (can't remember the size) and breaker bar or t-bar with a bit of pipe on it. If you buy the hub with the bearing on then no need for a press. The bearing will come out of the steering knuckle by knocking it side to side with a hammer and maybe a chisel in the gap just like scas says. If there's any wear on the discs change them or you'll have to do it again, plus loosen the disc bolts first. They will be tight too.

[scas]

I'm not sure. On a preloadable needle roller bearing, the nut and washer has free reign in the amount of 'squashabilty' on the bearing. So you would tighten it to almost seizure and then back it off by a third to half a turn. On a transit, its pressed onto the flange, the inner end of the flange butts against the face of the knuckle, so there's no room for tightening or loosening