Non starting with high fuel pressure

[knobby1]

What is this part that isn't listed ma Laird ??

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Ah yes...but he said it was on the end of the rail...only the Mk7 has that.

Maybe I just misunderstood.

Lord Knobrot

[Solowanderer]

Many thanks for that. I’ve taken a photo of the rail and the vin plate. Will try upload it…..

[Solowanderer]

I believe the fuel pressure sensor is the bit closest on end of rail. There is no pressure relief valve on the other end.

[Solowanderer]

Hopefully I don’t have a MK7 in a Mk6 body that’s going to require some sort of surgery to get him/her/them revving again!!

[Solowanderer]

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[Solowanderer]

Bit of an update: I noticed that on cranking, the battery is going dead after about 5 seconds. Also as soon as I crank, Forscan in oscilloscope mode looses communication after about a second. On reconnecting Forscan the voltage is now 11.1v and CPS has changed from ‘synced’ to ‘error’. Tried a different battery and same result. Thought I would throw all the amps I have and connected 2 batteries in the cab in parallel and a lithium jump starter on the connection in engine bay. Some easystart and and hallelujah! she fired into life, a (little rough admittedly but it is running unlearnt on a non Delphi valve). When I next tried to start, there was no crank or click - replaced starter relay and got crank again.

So my (very limited) reasoning is this: the starter motor or earth wiring is faulty. As a result, in order to crank it draws such a current that the rest of the electrical system shuts down due to low voltage, and throws the error codes. I’m also hoping that because it started, the pump hasn’t failed and taken the injectors with it. I’m guessing the high ampage took out the starter relay.

As I say, I’m guessing at all of this - I really don’t know a lot. Any thoughts would be really appreciated.

[tranmx2]

Starter motor solenoid switch contact plates pitted.
Used to be able to replace them - now likely it is neccessary to buy the whole starter motor with the solenoid switch on the motor.
Poor connections on the starter motor, wiring, connectors.
Earth strap starter motor to chassis the braided type can look okay but can grumble.
The whole electrical system related to the starter motor needs to be good.
Usually the alternator B + lead goes to the starter motor B + connection. Make sure that component/ system is not earthing.

[Solowanderer]

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tranmx2 you were correct about the starter solenoid being unserviceable. I’ve now bought a new starter motor and the van spins much faster without the voltage drop. This means I can now see what’s happening in Forscan whilst cranking. I think my problem might be with the CPS syncing. So far I have:
Replaced crankshaft and camshaft sensors (Bosch) & hotwired CPS wiring.
Checked timing chain alignment
Replaced starter switch on steering column

The CPS on Forscan is jumping all over the place & looks like Manhattan. Could this be a problem with the DMF? There was a bit of crud on the old CPS but not much. I’m confused. Would really appreciate any comments. Thanks everyone.

[vansit1]

Many thanks for that. I’ve taken a photo of the rail and the vin plate. Will try upload it…..
download/file.php?id=53751&t=1

why does it look like it has an empty connector in the middle of the fuel pipes or is it just 2 stickers that looks like a connector?
Scv is probablt Fpr aka fuel pressure reg.

[Solowanderer]

That’s a sticker in the middle of the fuel rail. I’m unsure how the fuel system could affect the syncing.

[Solowanderer]

Would really appreciate it if anyone has any experience or thoughts as to what could make the crankshaft position sensor jump around so much. I really don’t know where to turn to or try anymore. Many thanks.

[vansit1]

the last picture has like 3 pixels on it, so cant really see it that much

[andz327]

Explain "hot wired cps wiring"??

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