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"Failed" MOT test - welding requied...

Transit Mk6 & Mk7 Forum. All Transits 2000 - 2013

Re: "Failed" MOT test - welding requied...

Postby T350camper » Sat Apr 26, 2025 12:01 pm

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I bought one of these from Machine Mart (other retailers are available :lol: )

Then spent a few happy hours welding bits of scrap together until I got the hang of it. You definitely need a mask that reacts to the welding light but these are cheap. Also watch some welding videos on youtube (Tim Welds is a good one). This is a gas-less welder, but for DIY purposes worked fine for me.

As said before...you'll know when/if you're ready to start on the van. Be certain you remove all underseal etc around the area...it will catch fire!

Thin metal or metals of different thickness are harder to weld than thick stuff. Rust tends to explode :shock:

Good luck...what could possibles go wrong? :roll:
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Wisdom comes with age...but sometimes age comes alone :shock:

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Re: "Failed" MOT test - welding requied...

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Apr 26, 2025 1:47 pm

Don't weld onto any rust, clean it all off or cut back to clean good metal.

so you need to know what metal thickness you need to buy

for sills and body work i say 1.2mm 18 gauge ..which is thicker than the original 0.7

i don't know what thickness the main chassis are on the mk6 / 7 ..you need to find out before buying the metal.

all the best.mark
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Re: "Failed" MOT test - welding requied...

Postby red_uk » Sat Apr 26, 2025 6:09 pm

xelaris wrote:...and in fact, I've applied some rust converter (very expensive stuff) for a nice clean job in the differential and other bits - that was really bad looking but the first garage didn't fail the MOT for rust under the van which looks a lot better now than last year.


This might be where the problem lies... rust converter won't convert rust back to good metal. It might look cleaner and less rusty, but IME MOT testers don't worry about visible surface rust anyway, they're looking for rust that's penetrated enough to affect the structure. So while it might look prettier now, if he can still stick a screwdriver through the scabby bits that's still a fail. The only real solution is cutting it out and welding in new metal.

To answer your other question, yes you can totally do your own welding for MOT work. As long as it's up to standard (seam welded all the way around etc... look up the rules and requirements) it's all good. I've done some fairly extensive welding on my wife's car after the MOT guy found a hole he could put his fist through in one of the strut towers :shock: and he was happy with the result.

You can get a cheap welder and all the gear you need for probably less than what a decent welder would charge for a simple patch repair, so it's a good investment.
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Re: "Failed" MOT test - welding requied...

Postby T350camper » Sat Apr 26, 2025 6:16 pm

Some very good points there. Rust converters (like Krust etc) are very useful but best limited to surface corrosion after all the loose stuff has been removed. I tend to use it as a barrier before painting once all the rust I can remove is gone. If the metal is holed, then don't bother. Cut out the rot and weld in new metal.

The gas-less welders are more reasonable than you might think. Spend plenty of time trying to weld scrap metal first. It is a bit of an art and you must practice. It's always harder on a vehicle in awkward places that on pieces of metal you can arrange for easy access.
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