Engine rebuild 2.2 rwd

[T350camper]

Good advice metalworker. I use a mac (can't be bothered with all the crap and security issues that come with windows) and I stopped selling on fleabay when they made it compulsory to input your bank details. Don't have a smartphone (I like to rebel and be different ). Don't use chrome or facebook either and somehow I still manage to live a normal life

[silvercloud]

Well gentleman been flat out with other things , finally getting round to putting the engine back together ,
Am struggling with the fuel pump sprocket and timing -
I get that the timing marks on the fuel pump sprocket line up with the timing chain black marks -

But the sprocket is a tapered fit onto the fuel pump itself - does the sprocket timing marks need to be referenced to the pump itself ? I can’t seem to find any info in the Haynes manual !

Thanks in advance

[tranmx2]

The 2012 engine HP pump is not timed.
Needs a guide, O ring, clean faces.

Sprocket HP pp guide.JPG

Likely without the timming cover on the HP pump could be seen to be in line/a good fit. With the HP pump secured the centre bolt could be inserted to hold the sprocket to the pump.
I think the bolt is lh thread. Likely need to stop things rotating when the bolt is tightened.

[silvercloud]

The 2012 engine HP pump is not timed.
Needs a guide, O ring, clean faces.

Sprocket HP pp guide.JPG

That makes sense to me thanks for the clarity !! Was head scratching !!

[silvercloud]

Well Gentlemen,

Finally doing the last few bits and have two block connectors that got pulled and as much as i have tried im unable to work out which wire goes where ! does anyone have a photo of the two connectors fro mthe engine wiring loom that connect to the high pressure fuel pump ?! would forever be grateful

[tranmx2]

The PCV con' has yellow and a grey/blue wires. The FTS con' has two green wires.

The connectors are the same.

The bent strip referred to in the image was used to deflect the clip and remove the connectors.

PCV temp sensor.png

PCV temp sensor bent strip.png

[silvercloud]

[quote="tranmx2"]The PCV con' has yellow and a grey/blue wires. The FTS con' has two green wires.

The connectors are the same.

The bent strip referred to in the image was used to deflect the clip and remove the connectors.
[attachment=2]PCV temp sensor.png[/attachment]
[attachment=1]PCV temp sensor bent strip.png[/attachment][/quote]


You're a legend dude !!!

Are the two green wires the same ie if I put them back into the connector it doesn't matter which one goes in either slot ? Can see the yellow one in the pcv sits at the top

[tranmx2]

Are the two green wires the same ie if I put them back into the connector it doesn't matter which one goes in either slot ? Better to make sure which slot they go in.

There could be a grove/protrusion in the light blue section so the whole thing fits one way.


On the vids that I have both wires look to be green. I'll need to look on the van. Can't do it tomorrow but could do it the next day so won't get to the PC till evening of the 19th.

Could be 5 V or 12 V. Better to not use a DMM until you know the V of the wires. The wires shall go to the PCM. The electrical systems on vehicles with OBD2 electronics are not like as pre 1980s.

There are some posts re' getting wiring diags from fordmotorcraft. You have to pay for X amount of time. One source could be RMS diagnostics on youtube but you may have to look at a lot of vids to find the relevant one.

[silvercloud]

Are the two green wires the same ie if I put them back into the connector it doesn't matter which one goes in either slot ? Better to make sure which slot they go in.

There could be a grove/protrusion in the light blue section so the whole thing fits one way.


On the vids that I have both wires look to be green. I'll need to look on the van. Can't do it tomorrow but could do it the next day so won't get to the PC till evening of the 19th.

Could be 5 V or 12 V. Better to not use a DMM until you know the V of the wires. The wires shall go to the PCM. The electrical systems on vehicles with OBD2 electronics are not like as pre 1980s.

There are some posts re' getting wiring diags from fordmotorcraft. You have to pay for X amount of time. One source could be RMS diagnostics on youtube but you may have to look at a lot of vids to find the relevant one.

Absolutely fantastic, thank you so much for your help, Had a go at getting the engine back in and gearbox on etc impossible to do by myself absolute pig to align the shaft splines!!!! So engine is sitting on the garage floor till i get assistance on sat(the wife is not much help )

[tranmx2]

FTS lhs van yell grn.JPG

From the drivers seat looking forward lhs is on the drivers left. Green yellow wire is on the lhs. Green wire is towards the engine.
Remebered it being easy to find - but then had the rad etc out of the way. This time took a while to find it.

Tried putting the recon engine in myself - failed. Thought it was the eng' crane with it's 6 wheels which went in a sum of the direction they were pointing in and the rough surface - a bit of a jolt and things are out of line.
Two of us got it in. One under with spanners - one spanner to fit the bolts and one to get the gap even. Later used strips of metel to help bring the faces together evenly. The other up top pushing/pulling the crane etc.
Some put the gearbox into gear to stop the shaft from being turned.

Get her trained. No bordom whilst in the horizontal. Alinging and tightening the bolts would give her something to do whilst she is laying down there. The new set of clothes would charm her - not everyone has none washed self standing overalls with free grease etc.


What's the solid rear bike?

Solid rear bike.JPG

[silvercloud]

FTS lhs van yell grn.JPG

From the drivers seat looking forward lhs is on the drivers left. Green yellow wire is on the lhs. Green wire is towards the engine.
Remebered it being easy to find - but then had the rad etc out of the way. This time took a while to find it.

Tried putting the recon engine in myself - failed. Thought it was the eng' crane with it's 6 wheels which went in a sum of the direction they were pointing in and the rough surface - a bit of a jolt and things are out of line.
Two of us got it in. One under with spanners - one spanner to fit the bolts and one to get the gap even. Later used strips of metel to help bring the faces together evenly. The other up top pushing/pulling the crane etc.
Some put the gearbox into gear to stop the shaft from being turned.

Get her trained. No bordom whilst in the horizontal. Alinging and tightening the bolts would give her something to do whilst she is laying down there. The new set of clothes would charm her - not everyone has none washed self standing overalls with free grease etc.


What's the solid rear bike?

Solid rear bike.JPG

Sorry for the late reply- been super buy with work and the van!..... Your photos and info have been invaluable to me.... not a snowballs chance in hell is it possible to marry up the gearbox and engine on your own (tried with the misses, may as well had asked one of the kids), i got it to about 10mm gap and just could do it on my own/ missues , friend of mine came round and we had the engine back in within an hour.

Sorted all the fuel wiring with the help of your photos so thats sorted.

Engine fired up, obliviously running rough- new injectors and egr gasket is leaking massively. Sounds nice (for a diesel) when you pick up the revs to 1000. No clatter bangs or unusual noise.

Programed in the injectors- cleared faults

Cam position sensor error & all glow plugs showing fault still (all glow plugs new)

Ive ordered a new crank sensor as I had it out when I timed the engine (I eyed up the sensor with the bolts markings when refitting it) obviously this didn't work... new one arriving today, hoping this will solve rough running. From what i have gathered after the fact these sensor are one time use and should be dropped onto the flywheel bolted up and then flywheel skims the plastic ?! Voila (hopefully)

Have two plugs off the main engine harness that i haven't figured out where they go yet- I am assuming this is the cause for glow plug faults

Also noticed that the blue wire from EGT Sensor just behind the cold side of DPF is not connected - some gunther must have ripped the wires out, as both block connectors are missing from the sensor and the harness- I can see where they have been twisted together and insulting tape up (most likely the same genius that broke and epoxied the reveres switch on the gearbox). I believe the EGT Sensor is connected where the vaporizer is just above the sub-frame as I found silver strands of wires twisted into the copper strands that were left bare.... ANIMALS


Regarding the bike- you have a sharp eye , shes a '76 cb750/4 sohc or at least that's what she started life as... I spent a lot of time on lathe and mill will get a photo up (don't have any photos on new phone.... also don't have any photos of the engine to hand of when I took it apart... I did back up all my photos but they went as a photo dump onto the PC and I haven't bothered to sort through them).

[tranmx2]

125ps 2.2 rwd euro 5 - Programed in the injectors- cleared faults - the euro 5 don't need the injectors programing. The 2012 injectors do not have codes on them.

The 2012's recon engine had been painted including the dirt. Had to clean off the paint and dirt on the face for the camshaft sensor. The paint and dirt had the sensor too far away from the cam lobe.

all glow plugs showing fault still (all glow plugs new) There's a 4 wire connector just above the thermostat and a controller on the PCM which is on the lhs of the engine compartment.

sensor are one time use and should be dropped onto the flywheel bolted up and then flywheel skims the plastic - Don't know to which engine that info' applies. No sign of rubbing in on the 2012 crank pos' sensor.
Put mine in/on touching the flywheel then lifted it a bit.

Have two plugs off the main engine harness that i haven't figured out where they go yet- I am assuming this is the cause for glow plug faults. There is one connector abouve the thermostat for the glow plugs. Could be others at the controller. Doubt if the two strays are to do with the glow plugs. Post an image of them.

Also noticed that the blue wire from EGT Sensor just behind the cold side of DPF is not connected.

Connectors blue green near steering uni txt.png

The wires from the connectors go over the gearbox and likely to the PCM.
Both connectors look the same - it should matter if the EGT sensors are connected to the proper connector.

The EGT sensors are used to help determine when a regen is needed. During a regen the front sensor may go to 600 C. I have found with Forscan live data they fluctuate from about 100 to 300 C when the vehicle is in use.
Bike looks good. Is it an old frame with the modern engine in it or is the frame new?

[silvercloud]

125ps 2.2 rwd euro 5 - Programed in the injectors- cleared faults - the euro 5 don't need the injectors programing. The 2012 injectors do not have codes on them.

The 2012's recon engine had been painted including the dirt. Had to clean off the paint and dirt on the face for the camshaft sensor. The paint and dirt had the sensor too far away from the cam lobe.

all glow plugs showing fault still (all glow plugs new) There's a 4 wire connector just above the thermostat and a controller on the PCM which is on the lhs of the engine compartment.

sensor are one time use and should be dropped onto the flywheel bolted up and then flywheel skims the plastic - Don't know to which engine that info' applies. No sign of rubbing in on the 2012 crank pos' sensor.
Put mine in/on touching the flywheel then lifted it a bit.

Have two plugs off the main engine harness that i haven't figured out where they go yet- I am assuming this is the cause for glow plug faults. There is one connector abouve the thermostat for the glow plugs. Could be others at the controller. Doubt if the two strays are to do with the glow plugs. Post an image of them.

Also noticed that the blue wire from EGT Sensor just behind the cold side of DPF is not connected.

Connectors blue green near steering uni txt.png

The wires from the connectors go over the gearbox and likely to the PCM.
Both connectors look the same - it should matter if the EGT sensors are connected to the proper connector.

The EGT sensors are used to help determine when a regen is needed. During a regen the front sensor may go to 600 C. I have found with Forscan live data they fluctuate from about 100 to 300 C when the vehicle is in use.
Bike looks good. Is it an old frame with the modern engine in it or is the frame new?

Well been busy at it and have everything sorted, managed to find everywhere that the wiring to go to ! only thing im left wondering is a plastic pipe 1/4" meter long, i am assuming its a breather of sorts ! Have attached a pic

Egr has been blanked will get stage 1 , egr delete. Am possibly thinking a dpf delete this week


Regarding the bike its an old engine in an old frame that I heavily modified, headstock stretched and back half cut off and custom made

[tranmx2]

Could be vacumm pipe. Back of the engine. Vacumm pump rhs back of ex cam. Pipe goes to brake diaphragm and to cab heater.
I can have a look at my van but I know I may not be able to see/image/video much of it due to the lack of space.

Could be wrong - Vac pump along the back of head to lhs of engine where it splits one to cab heater and one over the top of the engine to the brake diaphragm.

Pos vacumm pipes.JPG

Is the blue and black thingy a torch or a R angle motorised socket driver?

Didn't know 4 cylinder engines were considered to be old.
So it's what is called a chopper.
Had a 1948 BSA 500 side valve solid rear and girder forks square profile tyres. Turn the handlebars a bit to get around corners. Big seat, bang every lampost, geared down for an outfit. Wonderful to plonk around on. A mere tweek of the throttle sent up hills at 40 mph. I'd like to have it now, could make it worthwhile putting on all the clobber to plonk about.

[silvercloud]

Could be vacumm pipe. Back of the engine. Vacumm pump rhs back of ex cam. Pipe goes to brake diaphragm and to cab heater.
I can have a look at my van but I know I may not be able to see/image/video much of it due to the lack of space.

Could be wrong - Vac pump along the back of head to lhs of engine where it splits one to cab heater and one over the top of the engine to the brake diaphragm.

Pos vacumm pipes.JPG

Think I have all the vaccum pipes on the engine correctly done , am wondering is it a drain for the bonnet / scuttle panel... will investigate better tomorrow in daylight !

Engine is pretty much done need to fit the washer bottle hose to the bonnet , forgot to prior to fitting the headlamps.

That's a torch , managed to give myself a black eye when it slipped and whacked me in the face!!

The bike will be 50 years old next year unsure if we class that old or not lol