Central Locking Mega Thread

[RanchHand]

My central locking on my MK6 packed it in a couple weeks ago, I found a blown fuse. Swapped it and it lasted maybe a day. Then i blew about 3 in a row instantly.
The entire locking system stops working, leaving vehicle access limited to the drivers door key.
The last fuse held for a week while I went to work every day.

If I run a test lamp between the negative battery cable and negative terminal I get lit up until I remove both central locking fuses, or the top green socket on the locking module under the glove box.

Here's what I've tried:

removing all door wiring harnesses one by one to isolate any bad wiring
inspecting all interior door wiring, rear door-to-body plastic sleeve for breaks
inspecting loom inside roof lining above front pillars in the cab
finding any bad grounds in drivers foot well
cleaning cargo door contact terminals
praying
drinking beer

I'm a total noob when it comes to electrical so I've done my best to piece together info from previous threads, and thanks to all who've offered advice.

Anybody go any theories? I can't see rhyme or reason as to when it'll blow a fuse. It lasted for a week driving every day. Could also be weather related, as it's been hot on days it's blown I've noticed.
Is my module on the fritz?

I'm located in Australia so pretty much every workshop treat you like a leper when you mention the words 'Ford Transit'.

[vampirequeen]

We think our Y reg simply hates it's central locking. The only one that works is the side sliding door but we can't stop it locking even when we don't want it to. I wish it was simply locked by key and life would be far simpler.

[RanchHand]

Yep. One key hole for 4 doors. Talk about over-engineering yourself out of a fail safe.

K.I.S.S.

[Altransit]

The "drinking beer", "praying", and "swearing" repair options haven't worked since the demise of the Mk2, (when thereafter, electronics became an option)

I would still suspect a problem with the rear door wiring, there may be nothing visible on the outside, or a short circuit in the lock solenoid itself. I don't think that there's a handy multiplug near to the door to isolate that loom, so you may be forced to cut and re-join each wire, (one at a time though!) and see if you can stop those fuse blowing

[RanchHand]

There is a harness behind the tail light which I’ve unplugged. I still get the short on the test lamp. So I deduce the short must be on the loom before the first rear door harness. Right?

I dug around the forums and found a thread mentioning a faulty front door actuator? Problem is all does work and then zap no doors work.

[robbie.cee]

So if lamp lights between actual ground and the ground wire for central locking surely its ground is broken and shorting to 12v somewhere??

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[the dutch guy]

expect one of the door looms (were the loom goes between the door and chassis) to have chafed and is shorting out. pull the connectors of the door units until the short is gone and then you have found your short. then take out the loom of that door and check it, especially the part between the door and panel.

[RanchHand]

Yep pulled all the door connectors and still get a short.
I’m guessing that narrows it the main loom right? Or is there still another possibility like faulty central module?

Auto electrical noob here.

[the dutch guy]

when i get home tonight i will post the schematics of the central locking. it should be simple to find the fault then.

[RanchHand]

Oh nice one

[RanchHand]

Been busier than a one-legged arse kicker over here so I haven't figured out where the issue is.
However I have stopped dead-locking the van and my fuse is still intact after a week.

Gonna go with that approach for now.

[RanchHand]

My MK6 SLD and rear barn doors refuse to unlock now. They're stuck in dead lock. I must've accidentally dead locked it.
One press and the front doors unlock and if I press it again to unlock the rear doors it either does nothing or it will actually re-lock the fronts automatically.

Both fuses are fine. I'm up sh*t creek here.

[RanchHand]

I applied 12v to the SLD harness and it actually popped open the rear doors, but the SLD remained dead locked. I'm guessing that's where the fault lies and both rear doors are on the same circuit.
Unable to open the SLD at all, I got a long flat screwdriver and pried the lock apart until I could reach in and jimmy the deadlock upwards while opening the handle.
The locking mechanism is destroyed but doors are open.

Now van won't lock cos it must think a door is ajar so it re-unlocks itself after 2 seconds when I press the fob. I've taken valuables out and I'll leave it until I can track down a new SLD lock and hope for the best.

Attaching padlocks on the rear doors remains an option

[Jbaussie]

I'm pretty much at the same point as you... Still no central locking...

How often does the module fail? Only time I dont blow a fuse is when it's disconnected..

For the sliding door... Have u tried turning the inside knob on the bottom-left of the sld? I had to take the side cover off and pull the wire while fiddling with the turn knob thing lol...

Once all door connections are disconnected is our next step to test each wire with a multimeter?





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[Jbaussie]

I'm pretty much at the same point as you... Still no central locking...

How often does the module fail? Only time I dont blow a fuse is when it's disconnected..

For the sliding door... Have u tried turning the inside knob on the bottom-left of the sld? I had to take the side cover off and pull the wire while fiddling with the turn knob thing lol...

Once all door connections are disconnected is our next step to test each wire with a multimeter?





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I also have some suspect wires under the dash near the steering column.. Theses no way ford would crimp wires together and just tape it is there?

Just got this van and trying to work out the issues and assuming it's already been fiddled with....

Thanks in advance guys

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