Side loading door roller.

[Nozza 75]

Just ordered a middle roller for the side loading door from "Transit parts UK" hopefully it should last longer than the 3 weeks that the last Chinese one did before spitting out the guts of the bearing. This will be the 3rd in a year..... You know that saying, buy cheap buy twice? I've probably spent the same on cheap bits as I could have paid Ford for the genuine part. Well this is the last cheapo roller, after this it's off to Ford with £50.82

[bigjohnthomas]

If you get a sh*t one with a steel.roller and no rubber bit on
It will last forever

[Nozza 75]

See the 2 smaller bearings that are mounted horizontally, well that's the buggers that keep going. The first one was knackered when I bought the van. The second one broke when I slammed the door in a radgie fit. Then this last one just broke closing the van normally. I cannot understand it, I only have skinny arms.

[Karst]

If you get a sh*t one with a steel.roller and no rubber bit on
It will last forever

Following on from this, mine has just failed.

So following your advice @bigjohnthomas I've found this -https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANSIT ... rk:18:pf:0

And this -https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Transit ... rk:24:pf:0

And finally this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/TRANSIT-SIDE-L ... dle+roller

So I'm gonna go for the 3rd one with its warranty and cos I've got Amazon Prime..... We'll see how it goes......

[bigjohnthomas]

my steel ones still going well
did you oil it?
i put clipper oil on mine when it starts to sound rough
that whal stuff its right good use it on the back door hinges on the custom too

[Karst]

I've oiled it John. The main roller is visibly disintegrating....

[gt_addict]

Are these easy to fit? Looks like its just two bolts and slide it out the back. Any tips? Have you got to support the door?

[bigjohnthomas]

Easy enough you just need a lesbian and a bottle of gutrot cider
Bish bosh done

[gt_addict]

I’ll have to track my self down a lesbian. She should be able to hold the door up while i do it.

[bigjohnthomas]

I think the door stays where it is on its own when you take the roller off
Can't quite remember now
You'll have trouble finding a lesbian because of brexit
I've already stocked up with them in
case of a no deal

[Karst]

If you get a sh*t one with a steel.roller and no rubber bit on
It will last forever

John, the "steel-rollered" one I bought from Transit Parts UK came with a rubber centre roller.

The "steel-rollered" one I just bought from eBay came with a rubber centre roller.

Do you know of anyone who actually sends the all-steel-roller version in actual physical reality?

[Karst]

I managed to get one on the 3rd go with a steel centre roller. But I was told they are all coming through now with a rubber roller. So best to check before you buy.

I nearly half-killed myself changing it over when the door fell off!!!

[Mashee]

Hey guys,

Saw this thread last year and it had me intrigued that a lil' external and easily accessible bearing was causing so much trouble. Naturally my door is the same (rubberised version, bearings are shot), but I finally got around to "upgrading" mine today.

The existing bearing is held together by the pressing/riveting process, so removing it only requires drilling out the flared-edge of the rivet on the bearing side of the shaft with a 9mm bit, just kiss the surface till the top pops off. Once the garbage bearing is removed, you can drill/tap the shaft for M6, and drop a nice new METAL bearing of your choice in place. I choose a 6000z which is a common industry bearing and only costs a couple dollars.

The ID/OD/width of the existing part is 8.5,25,7. The 6000z is 10,26,8. Either by use of a counter-sink bolt, or by some aluminium-drink-can-shim-work, you can center the bearing on the shaft really nicely.

Mine came up a treat!! Very pleased with the ~$2 upgrade. Hope this helps someone out there. Paying big bucks for a genuine ford part, or even grey market makes no sense when all you really need is that one bearing replaced.

Tools: clamp, drill, 9mm bit, 4.5mm bit (for m6 tap), m6 tap, pepsi can, scissors, loctite (super glue).

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[Mashee]

I've done this to both the UPPER and MID main roller bearings. All the small bearings were OK on mine, but the same method applies for those if you need.

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[Karst]

Hey guys,

Saw this thread last year and it had me intrigued that a lil' external and easily accessible bearing was causing so much trouble. Naturally my door is the same (rubberised version, bearings are shot), but I finally got around to "upgrading" mine today.

The existing bearing is held together by the pressing/riveting process, so removing it only requires drilling out the flared-edge of the rivet on the bearing side of the shaft with a 9mm bit, just kiss the surface till the top pops off. Once the garbage bearing is removed, you can drill/tap the shaft for M6, and drop a nice new METAL bearing of your choice in place. I choose a 6000z which is a common industry bearing and only costs a couple dollars.

The ID/OD/width of the existing part is 8.5,25,7. The 6000z is 10,26,8. Either by use of a counter-sink bolt, or by some aluminium-drink-can-shim-work, you can center the bearing on the shaft really nicely.

Mine came up a treat!! Very pleased with the ~$2 upgrade. Hope this helps someone out there. Paying big bucks for a genuine ford part, or even grey market makes no sense when all you really need is that one bearing replaced.

Tools: clamp, drill, 9mm bit, 4.5mm bit (for m6 tap), m6 tap, pepsi can, scissors, loctite (super glue).

Good one Mashee

My replacement part was only £11 delivered. For me that was cheap enough to justify buying that and "just" straight swapping them over.

Just everybody remember to support that door well when you do it it! It weighs a tonne and you want to keep your feet whole!