bigjohnthomas wrote:If you get a sh*t one with a steel.roller and no rubber bit on
It will last forever
bigjohnthomas wrote:If you get a sh*t one with a steel.roller and no rubber bit on
It will last forever
Mashee wrote:Hey guys,
Saw this thread last year and it had me intrigued that a lil' external and easily accessible bearing was causing so much trouble. Naturally my door is the same (rubberised version, bearings are shot), but I finally got around to "upgrading" mine today.
The existing bearing is held together by the pressing/riveting process, so removing it only requires drilling out the flared-edge of the rivet on the bearing side of the shaft with a 9mm bit, just kiss the surface till the top pops off. Once the garbage bearing is removed, you can drill/tap the shaft for M6, and drop a nice new METAL bearing of your choice in place. I choose a 6000z which is a common industry bearing and only costs a couple dollars.
The ID/OD/width of the existing part is 8.5,25,7. The 6000z is 10,26,8. Either by use of a counter-sink bolt, or by some aluminium-drink-can-shim-work, you can center the bearing on the shaft really nicely.
Mine came up a treat!! Very pleased with the ~$2 upgrade. Hope this helps someone out there. Paying big bucks for a genuine ford part, or even grey market makes no sense when all you really need is that one bearing replaced.
Tools: clamp, drill, 9mm bit, 4.5mm bit (for m6 tap), m6 tap, pepsi can, scissors, loctite (super glue).
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