2.4 tdci 135 bhp 2004 cylinder head cam tightwhen torqued up

[eddy dar]

Hi im putting a cylinder head with same cam box on but cams are off a different engine. Ive torqued everything up but whilst with the helpnof a 1/4" rachet with a 13mm socket the inlet cam spins smooth but the exhaust cam is tight and seems to have a sticky point ie turns then seems to get stuck. What do i do look for another exhaust cam.

[karl]

what torque settings

and did you do it in the correct order

https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/trans ... tdci_(puma)_diesel/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/removal_and_installation/camshafts/

did you lube it up before fitting the cams in to the carrier.

i have done these engines many many times and had the same problem with some of them and never had a problem with them once they are running it will bed in to the cam carrier

i have even bought a brand new cylinder head and used all the old components from old head and that ran great

[eddy dar]

Hi yes 23nm and in the sequence of the transit forums. It starts with 1 & 2 right in the centre then 3& 4 outer middle centre and so on.

I've put wet fingers of oil on cam bottom seating faces only. Would that be enough for it to go around when spun by hand. Before being torqued up.

[karl]

Hi yes 23nm and in the sequence of the transit forums. It starts with 1 & 2 right in the centre then 3& 4 outer middle centre and so on.

I've put wet fingers of oil on cam bottom seating faces only. Would that be enough for it to go around when spun by hand. Before being torqued up.

hi mate i would just built the engine up and run it, it will bed in on its own mate

you are worrying to much

[bambi mk 1]

Hi yes 23nm and in the sequence of the transit forums. It starts with 1 & 2 right in the centre then 3& 4 outer middle centre and so on.

I've put wet fingers of oil on cam bottom seating faces only. Would that be enough for it to go around when spun by hand. Before being torqued up.

hi mate i would just built the engine up and run it, it will bed in on its own mate

you are worrying to much

You never worry too much when you have a 135 tdci

[eddy dar]

I hear what your saying. Will give it a go. And keep you posted.

[amlav]

As Bamby and Karl suggested .... after all they helped me a lot when my timing chain jumped ....thanks again guys . 4 years and my mk6 tdci 135 still runs smooth .
Just make sure the camshafts can be turned by hand once torqued down . It should feel smooth and eventualy very small diference between the two of them in turning force by hand . As long as the friction is abouth the same and camshafts can be turned with just slight pressure it should be ok.

[Jim Archer]

Check to see if the cam is bent - which it likely will be if it's taken a big enough whack the pull the carrier threads. It will be very easy to straghten, just take your time.

Jim

[eddy dar]

Amlav thanks for the advice. My exhaust cam is harder to turn than my inlet. It feels as though its jamming on a spot . I cant turn either by hand. Im using a socket with a rachet to turn. Im not using a lot of force but defo cant turn by hand.

Jim you may have a point the exhaust cam may be bent hence why it has a tight spot on rotation.

I cant take a risk as it will be 3rd time i will have done the head. Im gonna strip it down and re-check it.

[marc1234567]

Amlav thanks for the advice. My exhaust cam is harder to turn than my inlet. It feels as though its jamming on a spot . I cant turn either by hand. Im using a socket with a rachet to turn. Im not using a lot of force but defo cant turn by hand.

Jim you may have a point the exhaust cam may be bent hence why it has a tight spot on rotation.

I cant take a risk as it will be 3rd time i will have done the head. Im gonna strip it down and re-check it.

hi eddy. old thread so sorry. what happened with this?I am having similar issues. torqued to 23nm and tough to turn. 3 bolts in camshaft and can turn just about by hand but feels too tight. anyone observing like knobby maybd can comment on this? I had head skimmed, can't think that would affect anything but wondered if it might somehow? all the same cams etc . I feel like I could expect exhaust to be tougher as driving vacuum pump but both cams are tough . someone said about warming torque wrench up by using o tightened bolt a bit before but am wondering if torque wrench can be trusted. the first torque stage of 10nm and they turn ok but second stage 23nm and tight. I did put oil on journals .

[knobby1]

Amlav thanks for the advice. My exhaust cam is harder to turn than my inlet. It feels as though its jamming on a spot . I cant turn either by hand. Im using a socket with a rachet to turn. Im not using a lot of force but defo cant turn by hand.

Jim you may have a point the exhaust cam may be bent hence why it has a tight spot on rotation.

I cant take a risk as it will be 3rd time i will have done the head. Im gonna strip it down and re-check it.

hi eddy. old thread so sorry. what happened with this?I am having similar issues. torqued to 23nm and tough to turn. 3 bolts in camshaft and can turn just about by hand but feels too tight. anyone observing like knobby maybd can comment on this? I had head skimmed, can't think that would affect anything but wondered if it might somehow? all the same cams etc . I feel like I could expect exhaust to be tougher as driving vacuum pump but both cams are tough . someone said about warming torque wrench up by using o tightened bolt a bit before but am wondering if torque wrench can be trusted. the first torque stage of 10nm and they turn ok but second stage 23nm and tight. I did put oil on journals .

I'm afraid "eddy" hasn't been on the forum since November of 2018...so you may never know what happened with his.

Are your cam carrier and cyl head a matched set, originals?? They are "line bored" as a pair at the factory. If "torqued correctly in the correct sequence" and you can turn the cams by hand, they should be ok....if the cams lock up totally, you'll have issues.

Cam carrier.PNG

Lord Knobrot.

[marc1234567]

Amlav thanks for the advice. My exhaust cam is harder to turn than my inlet. It feels as though its jamming on a spot . I cant turn either by hand. Im using a socket with a rachet to turn. Im not using a lot of force but defo cant turn by hand.

Jim you may have a point the exhaust cam may be bent hence why it has a tight spot on rotation.

I cant take a risk as it will be 3rd time i will have done the head. Im gonna strip it down and re-check it.

hi eddy. old thread so sorry. what happened with this?I am having similar issues. torqued to 23nm and tough to turn. 3 bolts in camshaft and can turn just about by hand but feels too tight. anyone observing like knobby maybd can comment on this? I had head skimmed, can't think that would affect anything but wondered if it might somehow? all the same cams etc . I feel like I could expect exhaust to be tougher as driving vacuum pump but both cams are tough . someone said about warming torque wrench up by using o tightened bolt a bit before but am wondering if torque wrench can be trusted. the first torque stage of 10nm and they turn ok but second stage 23nm and tight. I did put oil on journals .

Yeah 1 to 20 were torqued to 23nm . I followed ford tech service instructions 1 - 20 , stage 1 10nm and stage 2 @ 23nm. stage 1 seemed ok to turn by hand but 23nm can turn by hand if i put 3 bolts in but is stiff and tight. I am not that experienced with knowing if a torque setting feels right but it didn't feel that tight. in other thread about tight cams someone called karl was advising another member not to worry and would bed in but this is old and not replacement so not need to bed in I would have thought. If it is tight I would have thought would put strain on chanin , may cause frictions and overheating of the journal , possibly melting . I cannot undertand how it is too tight.

[marc1234567]

Amlav thanks for the advice. My exhaust cam is harder to turn than my inlet. It feels as though its jamming on a spot . I cant turn either by hand. Im using a socket with a rachet to turn. Im not using a lot of force but defo cant turn by hand.

Jim you may have a point the exhaust cam may be bent hence why it has a tight spot on rotation.

I cant take a risk as it will be 3rd time i will have done the head. Im gonna strip it down and re-check it.

hi eddy. old thread so sorry. what happened with this?I am having similar issues. torqued to 23nm and tough to turn. 3 bolts in camshaft and can turn just about by hand but feels too tight. anyone observing like knobby maybd can comment on this? I had head skimmed, can't think that would affect anything but wondered if it might somehow? all the same cams etc . I feel like I could expect exhaust to be tougher as driving vacuum pump but both cams are tough . someone said about warming torque wrench up by using o tightened bolt a bit before but am wondering if torque wrench can be trusted. the first torque stage of 10nm and they turn ok but second stage 23nm and tight. I did put oil on journals .

I'm afraid "eddy" hasn't been on the forum since November of 2018...so you may never know what happened with his.

Are your cam carrier and cyl head a matched set, originals?? They are "line bored" as a pair at the factory. If "torqued correctly in the correct sequence" and you can turn the cams by hand, they should be ok....if the cams lock up totally, you'll have issues.

Cam carrier.PNG

Lord Knobrot.

I cannot say if a matched pair . I haven't replaced anything , just took apart , not sure what others have done before . It was running before I took apart ( pressurising header tank that is why it has been taken apart, after checking it wasn't egr cooler.)

[marc1234567]

what torque settings

and did you do it in the correct order

https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/trans ... tdci_(puma)_diesel/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/removal_and_installation/camshafts/

did you lube it up before fitting the cams in to the carrier.

i have done these engines many many times and had the same problem with some of them and never had a problem with them once they are running it will bed in to the cam carrier

i have even bought a brand new cylinder head and used all the old components from old head and that ran great

I have a similar problem. both my camshafts are tight but the none of the engine is new , I am just reassembling after changing head gasket. my camshafts are quite stiff and only really move with bolt in the sprokets to get a good grip. feels to tight. torqued to 23nm . wondering if the over heating maybe did something to head .

[metalworker0]

Generally if the head is warped and its skimmed, the correct practice is then to line bore the cam journals after skimming, I know this because i own a well known and famous car for warping cylinder heads a Triumph Stag, it's well documented that Triumph Stag Cylinder heads require line boring of cam journals after skimming of warped cylinder heads.

You also should not interchange the journals caps ...they should be numbered and put back in the same places.

Maybe swapping some around will sort it out if you've got them mixed up.

I've also seen some engine re-buiders in videos (cant find them now) put some sort of moly-based (Molybdenum Disulfide) grease on the journals during assembly

see here:
https://www.capitalremanexchange.com/wh ... ly-grease/

Better safe than sorry !


all the best..mark