Euro 4 or Euro 5

[Steve192]

Hi people,

What’s your opinions on the best/ more reliable mk7 2.2 motor?

Euro 5

Or

Euro 4?

[loot]

Ah now then the eternal question the answer has to be, the 1 that doesn't appear in this forum which could be either lol.

Is have to say the 1 that gets looked after the most, regular servicing and driving nicely etc.
The euro 4 needs routine software updates which not that many ppl do and then a problem occurs. Euro 5 there aren't as many software update routines to do, the injectors do look a bit flimsy compared to euro 4, there's the dpf system too, there may be a dpf system fitted to late euro 4 ones too but I don't recall off hand.

We're on euro 6 now so at some stage you'll need to just go with the flow.

Could get an old landy and fill it with veg oil

Chips anyone

[Steve192]

Hi currently have a Euro 5 2.2 fwd 62 plate. Had it 14 months since 60k on 84k now. Have changed the oil every 8000 miles, filters etc too, countless drop links, ball joints once, track rod ends twice, anti roll bar bushes 3 times, all this is basically wear and tear which I can deal with.

I’ve had bigger issues with it recently though, slight judders in the revs 1500-1700 rpm, searched and no one can find any issues. No codes etc. Seen a thread on here regarding it and it seems common but no one knows the exact issue. Also needs a new clutch after 12 months, dmf is on its way too as it’s making a terrible noise, had 2 new genuine air flow metres as they kept coming up as an error code.

Just wanted to get a feel as to what would be a better option really, seen far too many mk8’s and customs on the side of the road with AA and what not looking under the bonnet so don’t really want to get a custom just yet. Was thinking of maybe getting a 10 plate Euro 4 140 or something if they seem to be better.

[loot]

Custom, mk8 2.2 euro 5 will be same engine as yours.

Everything else is the same mechanically from mk6 to mk8 but obviously quality can vary wildly.

10 plate e4 140 could need 1000+spending on it but certainly the last of the euro 4 will be needing injectors and valves and updates and clutch etc so a clear service history is required or you could be asking for trouble.

Any vehicle you buy though could be a lemon unfortunately

My custom has done 11000 miles for me without issue. Did need to replace an injector when I bought the van but I'm sure that was a freak occurrance.

[bambi mk 1]

Buy a mk 2 even Loot has got the bug

[loot]

Hey wait till I get 1 lol everyone will want 1 and it'll make it harder for me to find 1

Anyway mine will be a kuga 4x4 auto in a dress so probably euro 5/6?

[Steve192]

Going to bump up an old post of mine here. I’m sick to death of my mk7 2.2 euro 5. The list of parts replaced over 60k’s worth of driving is as follows:

2 x DMF’s
1 x clutch
1 x set of front discs and pads
4 x pairs of drop links
3 x pairs of ball joints
2 x pairs of top mounts
3 x pairs of front wheel bearings
2 x top mounts
1 x inlet manifold
2 x genuine egr valves
1 x genuine fuel pump
1 x crankshaft sensor


Serviced every 8000 miles by myself including air, oil and fuel filters. Now has glow pug issues and struggles to start and another dual mass issue!

Wish I kept my mk6! Only updated cuz I like the looks and interior of a mk7.

Anyone fitted a Mk6 engine in a 7? I have the chance to get a mk6 with 82k on however it doesn’t have electric windows etc and my mk7 does. Would buy it and either put the engine in my 7 as it (sounds) easier than doing the other way round. I would have a full donor vehicle, Ecu the lot

[dumper]

[quote="Steve192"]Going to bump up an old post of mine here. I’m sick to death of my mk7 2.2 euro 5. The list of parts replaced over 60k’s worth of driving is as follows:

2 x DMF’s
1 x clutch
1 x set of front discs and pads
4 x pairs of drop links
3 x pairs of ball joints
2 x pairs of top mounts
3 x pairs of front wheel bearings
2 x top mounts

The surspention parts you have used in that mileage is a lot are you doing most of your driving off road or fitting really bad parts off eBay or maybe driving it like you stole it

[Steve192]

The first sets were Euro car parts stuff then I went for genuine top mounts, genuine wheel bearings and to be fair they’ve been fine. I don’t drive it that hard. Honestly

The thing that I don’t get is why it’s going through dual mass flywheels just under a year apart. First one went after 8 months, LUK kit (same as standard) then the second went after 9 months again, and LUK kit. It’s started making the same noise as last time again, and it’s nearly £800 a time.

[knobby1]

The thing that I don’t get is why it’s going through dual mass flywheels just under a year apart. First one went after 8 months, LUK kit (same as standard) then the second went after 9 months again, and LUK kit. It’s started making the same noise as last time again, and it’s nearly £800 a time.

Very strange, my 2008 rwd 140 which is coming up to 12 years old is still on the original factory clutch...only 150k km though.

Lord Knobrot

[Steve192]

It is strange. And really annoying

I should have kept my trusty mk6.

[bambi mk 1]

It is strange. And really annoying

I should have kept my trusty mk6.

I'll swap you a rusty mk 6

[Steve192]

It is strange. And really annoying

I should have kept my trusty mk6.

I'll swap you a rusty mk 6

I have the opportunity to buy a mint mk6 rust free for cheap with 82k. Absolute minter, I just don’t like the front end or interior. I was going to put the engine and loom, clocks etc in my mk7 and drive that. My mk7 is very clean and looks the perfect but is nothing but trouble for me