MK7 Bad MPG, Power Loss, Fault Codes

[blue estate]

Hmmm that's interesting. Boost seems ok to me. Egr doesn't but I would be surprised if it was the egr causing the low MPG, which by the way is really bad.

If it was stuck open, MAF reading would be lower than expected and you'd get less power but I would expect less fuel to be injected too. That or a lot of black smoke.

If it was stuck closed it would run better, right? That mpg doesn't make sense

So on Torque, the EGR is operating and it closes fully on full throttle. Yes there was another code saying "MAF reading to high but still within range" or something like that. I have a new MAF.

It sounds very tappy when it's cold and just generally at low revs.

So, should I remove and clean the EGR? Can i do some basic turbo checks without a computer? Actuator etc..

EGR is dead and not opening as you get same code for MAF if EGR is blanked

[daraioj]

Hmmm that's interesting. Boost seems ok to me. Egr doesn't but I would be surprised if it was the egr causing the low MPG, which by the way is really bad.

If it was stuck open, MAF reading would be lower than expected and you'd get less power but I would expect less fuel to be injected too. That or a lot of black smoke.

If it was stuck closed it would run better, right? That mpg doesn't make sense

So on Torque, the EGR is operating and it closes fully on full throttle. Yes there was another code saying "MAF reading to high but still within range" or something like that. I have a new MAF.

It sounds very tappy when it's cold and just generally at low revs.

So, should I remove and clean the EGR? Can i do some basic turbo checks without a computer? Actuator etc..

EGR is dead and not opening as you get same code for MAF if EGR is blanked

Would that cause low MPG or loss of power? Or you reckon that's a separate problem?

[martynx]

Is the MAF you replaced genuine ? many pattern one's do not work well.

I cant recall if( ignoring any MIL lamps) the engine should run OK with EGR just unplugged, was the EGR faulty prior ?

[Bertie90]

Is the MAF you replaced genuine ? many pattern one's do not work well.

I cant recall if( ignoring any MIL lamps) the engine should run OK with EGR just unplugged, was the EGR faulty prior ?

exactly the same. MAF was not original so maybe you're right.

[martynx]

Is the MAF you replaced genuine ? many pattern one's do not work well.

I cant recall if( ignoring any MIL lamps) the engine should run OK with EGR just unplugged, was the EGR faulty prior ?

exactly the same. MAF was not original so maybe you're right.

If you're just diagnosing a possible MAF fault, assuming all else is working well, a good MAF plugged in will make van more powerful, not hugely but noticeable. There is a backup map ( set of settings in the engine ecu ) that comes into play of MAF is very faulty like dead or a bad fake , this comes into play if ECU detects a MAF fault, to ensure emissions are in check. ( you'll get MAF DTC's but it will run "OK".) On 2.4 Mk7's the MAF wiring can chafe through, in the section between MAF & engine block.

[Bertie90]

so I swapped the aftermarket new MAF for an original. No difference at all. The EML light has disappeared on the dash so i thought i was heading in the right direction. I ran a scan and here what came up

- P1409 - EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
- P1402 - EGR Metering Orifice Restricted
- P1103 - Mass Airflow Sensor in Range But Higher Than Expected
- P0404 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
- P0234 - Turbocharger / Supercharger "A" Overboost Condition Code
- P2265 - Water in Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance -what is this???
- P1409 - EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
- P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction

what...the...hell

it is obvious i need a new EGR. Is it an easy job to replace it? i know it's at the back.

can a bad EGR cause 9.5mpg???

[knobby1]

so I swapped the aftermarket new MAF for an original. No difference at all. The EML light has disappeared on the dash so i thought i was heading in the right direction. I ran a scan and here what came up

- P1409 - EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
- P1402 - EGR Metering Orifice Restricted
- P1103 - Mass Airflow Sensor in Range But Higher Than Expected
- P0404 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
- P0234 - Turbocharger / Supercharger "A" Overboost Condition Code
- P2265 - Water in Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance -what is this???
- P1409 - EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
- P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction

what...the...hell

it is obvious i need a new EGR. Is it an easy job to replace it? i know it's at the back.

can a bad EGR cause 9.5mpg???

All those except the water in fuel code point to a duff EGR or duff wring to it.

Lord Knobrot

[martynx]

P2265 - Water in Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance -what is this???

A PCM update usually cures this one,

[knobby1]

What Martyn said...replace the EGR valve, methinks you then need a session on IDS to update to latest PCM firmware and go from there.

Lord Knobrot

[Bertie90]

strange, i posted a reply 2 days ago and it didn't upload

anyway, Lord Knorbot, you seem like a knowledgeable man/woman? lol do you happen to know where i could find a guide on how to remove the egr without taking half of the engine bay off?

Cheers

[knobby1]

strange, i posted a reply 2 days ago and it didn't upload

anyway, Lord Knorbot, you seem like a knowledgeable man/woman? lol do you happen to know where i could find a guide on how to remove the egr without taking half of the engine bay off? Cheers

Me, a woman..? Hardly...although I have been called much worse There's much more knowledgeable chaps on here than I...

Mk7 RWD EGR is located at rear of inlet manifold just above the starter, it's bolted to the EGR cooler and transfer pipe, only 4 bolts and an electrical connector hold it on. It can be done without removing half the engine but TBH, it's far easier to remove the inlet manifold first before attacking the EGR valve, two of the bolts are actually easier to get at from underneath. Just be aware the bolts will probably be corroded and difficult to remove, best to get new ones if possible.

Lord Knobrot

[andz327]

so I swapped the aftermarket new MAF for an original. No difference at all. The EML light has disappeared on the dash so i thought i was heading in the right direction. I ran a scan and here what came up

- P1409 - EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
- P1402 - EGR Metering Orifice Restricted
- P1103 - Mass Airflow Sensor in Range But Higher Than Expected
- P0404 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
- P0234 - Turbocharger / Supercharger "A" Overboost Condition Code
- P2265 - Water in Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance -what is this???
- P1409 - EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
- P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction

what...the...hell

it is obvious i need a new EGR. Is it an easy job to replace it? i know it's at the back.

can a bad EGR cause 9.5mpg???

9 mpg fookin ell mate where's the fuel going ??? Is it really smokey (black or grey/white)??? Check your oil isn't gettin fuel in it ??
Have you recently changed prv on the fuel rail recently with an after market valve, a had a problem with a mates van sh!t mpg and reduced power but it made engine super quiet , i changed it with a spare genuine one , engine was bit noisier power was back and once i done learns on it it quieted down and was like a different van

ANDZ

[Bertie90]

[/quote]9 mpg fookin ell mate where's the fuel going ??? Is it really smokey (black or grey/white)??? Check your oil isn't gettin fuel in it ??
Have you recently changed prv on the fuel rail recently with an after market valve, a had a problem with a mates van sh!t mpg and reduced power but it made engine super quiet , i changed it with a spare genuine one , engine was bit noisier power was back and once i done learns on it it quieted down and was like a different van

ANDZ[/quote]

hi ANDZ

prv - pressure release valve? don't think it's ever been changed. I'm a newbie with vans, what part number is it? I can see there's a kit with a sensor and there's also just the release valve. Which one should i do? i'll do it at the same time with the EGR since i'm in the area.

[martynx]

9 mpg fookin ell mate where's the fuel going ??? Is it really smokey (black or grey/white)??? Check your oil isn't gettin fuel in it ??
Have you recently changed prv on the fuel rail recently with an after market valve, a had a problem with a mates van sh!t mpg and reduced power but it made engine super quiet , i changed it with a spare genuine one , engine was bit noisier power was back and once i done learns on it it quieted down and was like a different van

ANDZ[/quote]

hi ANDZ

prv - pressure release valve? don't think it's ever been changed. I'm a newbie with vans, what part number is it? I can see there's a kit with a sensor and there's also just the release valve. Which one should i do? i'll do it at the same time with the EGR since i'm in the area.[/quote]

PRV is at end of fuel rail, at back of engine on a RWD, remove it & if it's in pieces as in the piston part, spring & ball bearing falls out, replace it but only with genuine item or one in a denso boxed, ways to tell generally is genuine ones have their part number engraved rather than laser etched, the engraving, if its called that, is done with a vibrating tip so look close & you can see tiny dotted indents making up the number. Many non originals dont work well enough & many kits include a good enough SCV but a bad PRV & a pressure sensor. I have no idea if the pressure sensor is any good, ( it's part number isn't an obvious match) but they fail so rarely they are best left untouched.

Best source is Perry's Ford Ebay Shop at £60.70, described as "FORD TRANSIT TT9 FUEL RAIL PRESSURE LIMITER REGULATOR VALVE 1497165 GENUINE OE"https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANSIT ... rk:18:pf:0

You'll notice its fitted tight, & without a custom bent spanner & lump hammer its easier taking the rail off to remove it. i'm not sure if there's a simple 1 hit torque setting for refitting as such but the way i do them is fit hand tight hard with a 10" combo spanner then use a lump hammer on the spanner to nip it round about 1/16th to 1/8th further.

[Bertie90]

PRV is at end of fuel rail, at back of engine on a RWD, remove it & if it's in pieces as in the piston part, spring & ball bearing falls out, replace it but only with genuine item or one in a denso boxed, ways to tell generally is genuine ones have their part number engraved rather than laser etched, the engraving, if its called that, is done with a vibrating tip so look close & you can see tiny dotted indents making up the number. Many non originals dont work well enough & many kits include a good enough SCV but a bad PRV & a pressure sensor. I have no idea if the pressure sensor is any good, ( it's part number isn't an obvious match) but they fail so rarely they are best left untouched.

Best source is Perry's Ford Ebay Shop at £60.70, described as "FORD TRANSIT TT9 FUEL RAIL PRESSURE LIMITER REGULATOR VALVE 1497165 GENUINE OE" [url]<a href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANSIT-TT9-FUEL-RAIL-PRESSURE-LIMITER-REGULATOR-VALVE-1497165-GENUINE-OE/401066150205?epid=1709781919&hash=item5d6167c93d:g:LzsAAOSwZltcBUcm:rk:18:pf:0" class="skimlinks-unlinked" data-skimwords-word="https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FFORD-TRANSIT-TT9-FUEL-RAIL-PRESSURE-LIMITER-REGULATOR-VALVE-1497165-GENUINE-OE%2F401066150205%3Fepid%3D1709781919%26hash%3Ditem5d6167c93d%3Ag%3ALzsAAOSwZltcBUcm%3Ark%3A18%3Apf%3A0" data-skim-creative="500005" title="" style="">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANSIT-TT9-FUEL-RAIL-PRESSURE-LIMITER-REGULATOR-VALVE-1497165-GENUINE-OE/401066150205?epid=1709781919&hash=item5d6167c93d:g:LzsAAOSwZltcBUcm:rk:18:pf:0</a>[/url]

You'll notice its fitted tight, & without a custom bent spanner & lump hammer its easier taking the rail off to remove it. i'm not sure if there's a simple 1 hit torque setting for refitting as such but the way i do them is fit hand tight hard with a 10" combo spanner then use a lump hammer on the spanner to nip it round about 1/16th to 1/8th further. [/quote]

thanks for your help, this cold weather doesn't make things easy