Sliding Door Adjustment Problems

[Mintco]

I have a 2005 RWD Transit Minibus. The sliding door has (since I purchased the bus) a gap at the leading lower corner of the sliding door near the B pillar. I have replaced all 3 of the rollers, top, back, lower middle and the the problem still remains. I have gone through the adjustment protocol as per the description online. The only thing I have noticed is the lower middle roller is loose in the runner. The rail appears in good condition... should the runner have a bush over the roller bearing to make the figment tighter? Or am I missing something else? Any thoughts appreciated!! Thanks...


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[knobby1]

We've found some of the doors are actually twisted...which would pretty much make any sensible adjustment impossible.

Lord Knobrot

[Mashee]

There's gobs and gobs of adjustment in those rollers, and even more adjustment if you back off the mounting screws and shift the whole bearing assembly on the door to suit.

Is the gap an issue looking from the side, or is it a gap looking down the body? (ie: sticking proud of the body shape). Either way, they're both adjustable!

Post a few photos! There are plenty of dudes who can give you fairly precise instructions on straightening it up. (though Knobby does have a point, that might be trickier)

[Mintco]

The door appears straight, not twisted. I agree there appears to be lots of adjustment as well. I’ve tried every way possible to adjust it. I’ve added three photos:
. Door looking from front to back as it stands now
. The door when manually pushed inwards
. The sliding part that I think is the culprit

The teach page I have read says to adjust the door with it ‘closed’. To make the adjustments on a minibus you have to removed the scuff plates and squeeze a spanner in the gap to get to the lower roller. I have I understood the instructions correctly? I adjusted it with the help of an assistant pushing the door onwards whilst tightening the bolts... it didn’t make much improvement.
One not to add is that I have about 10mm of in and out movement/slack on the lower roller, that seems excessive to me as I imagine it should be only a 2-3mm of movement?
I checked a mk7 van yesterday and it has a lot less slack although it looks like a different track to mine.

Any thoughts appreciated!

Thanks.


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[Mintco]

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[Mashee]

Not worth adjusting while closed, you have to fight against the doors seals and it's just too much work. Make estimates of the adjustment required while the door is 1/2 open, get a helper if needed, and keep at it. Over-estimating the movement required tends to be the winning theme when adjusting the door.

I only see two photos, not three like mentioned. That's quite a large gap at the bottom...is it really seated nicely at the top??

[Mad Husky]

Mines the same not quite as open as that but still catching all the road crud have adjusted that bottom bracket made no difference what so ever so going to help the bracket by making the bolt holes longer should work.

[scas]

my door was like that-perfect at the top and like that at the bottom. only way i fixed it was to drill new holes in the bottom roller thing and move the bolts

[Mashee]

...only way i fixed it was to drill new holes in the bottom roller thing and move the bolts

Not unreasonable, I had to do the same thing with my rear door catches to get the doors to pull in another 5mm due to wear on the latches. Different door, different situation obv...but same repair.

[Mintco]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I’ve tried to adjust the door to the maximum extreme of its movement to no avail. I think I’ll try the suggestion of filing or drilling longer holes in the arm to give me another 5mm of movement.
You would think that the front plastic ‘stays’ would keep the door in a tight position by default but adjusting these just makes things worse at the moment as then alignment of these is the issue...
I’ll report back in due course.
Thanks again.


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[Shirazman]

Hi guys

The sliding door on my 2012 ford transit mk7 Euro 5 was a bit difficult to open last week, and I must have pulled too hard from the handle (in the direction away from the van,as opposed to sliding direction). The bottom part of the door completely came off. I dont understand how the bearing on this lower arm could jump its rail like that. The bearing part didnt seem to have any outer rubber tyre part, perhaps this is how it came out?

To put the door back on its rail, I decided to undo the 2 bolts (Torx 40), put the bearing side back into the rail, and reconnect the 2 bolts. However now my sliding doors central locking isn't locking properly and the horn beeps. Ive adjusted the bottom alignment so it sits at its outer most point, which means the door sits quite flush when I close the door. I cant tell if the 3 points are making contact, I'm assuming not as the slidong door lock used to lock using the button on the remote.

The bottom of the door has a lot of movement in and out when pressing against it, when its in the full open position.

There seems to be a springiness at the joint where the 2 bolts sit, plus further movement where the roller bearing sits. Perhaps its nkt seated properly??

Can i please ask for advise on the alignment of the bottom arm? There is a lot of adjustability in alignment before tightening the 2 bolts. Any advise?
Also more importantly does this bearing "end" of the bottom rail arm just go in behind the channel (I.e or does it need to sit in a particular position or into a mechanism or similar?)

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[Shirazman]

This is the lower part arm I am talking about for reference

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[Shirazman]

Hi guys I've solved the problem with the sliding door not locking with the central locking.

I replaced a fuse under the driver's seat (behind the rear battery). But I don't thinks what fixed it.
I realised I had never used the boot unlock on the remote. I thought the central locking was broken, and not unlocking the rear door, so I was climbing over the seats to turn the knob to unlock.
I think this was making the central locking out of sync.
As when I unlocked the boot, opened and then closed the door, and pressed lock on the remote, everything locked, including the sliding door (no beep from the horn!!!!!). I am so relieved that this seems to have fixed the problem. Hopefully this may help others with the same issue.


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