Tips replacing idle speed control valve 2.3 petrol

[Evom]

Hi all,

I’ve had some intermittent idling and throttle over revving issues so a mechanic advised to replace the Idle Speed Control Valve on my 2.3 petrol MK6 Motorhome (in Australia). He suggested I also disconnect the battery so it re learns after installed. I imported a new one from a UK supplier (damn expensive locally!).

Any tips from the brains trust? Is this is the way to go?

Cheers Evo

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[Evom]

Update; got the new part.

Shame no one has done this before and can offer some insights or confirmation

[knobby1]

Update; got the new part.

Shame no one has done this before and can offer some insights or confirmation

Very few of us have petrol/LPG Transits, well over 90% of them are Diesel.

Lord Knobrot

[Evom]

Changed it out, seems to be running ok but 1st fill up with high octane petrol (70 liters) and the engine warning dash light came on.(orange engine symbol) Don’t know if it’s related but drove back home about 50kms and running fine. Light has stayed on so will try to get it scanned to see what it is.

Ps I have been using high octane in it continuously as it runs much better and more economy

[Evom]

Update for anyone with similar problems.

Replacing the idle speed control valve didn’t fix my issues and engine started running even worse. Symptoms were revs sticking (high) when changing down through the gears, uneven idle speed, sometimes high or too low, won’t idle and stalls. All these were intermittent and highway speeds were relatively ok. Stop start traffic was the worse!

Anyway, changed out the TPS Sensor (throttle position sensor) mounted on the Throttle Body and cleaned up the body and butterfly with throttle body cleaner. All good after that and engine running normal again and symptoms all gone, including the check engine light. The code came up with idle speed out of range so points to the TPS anyway. Old TPS didn’t rattle and seemed fine but I assume electronics inside were stuffed.

Made sure to disconnect the battery and also ran a wire across the (disconnected) negative lead to the positive on the battery terminal to discharge any remain capacitors and to reset modules.

Started first go and let it idle from cold for about 15 mins then drive.

Hope this helps other with a 2.3 petrol transit. Not many of us it seems!

Cheers

[midnight]

Maybe check to see if the Maf is also clean.

[Evom]

Thanks. Running fine now so I’ll leave it alone. Heard it’s easy to damage even cleaning it

[midnight]

No problem, but if you do need to do it in the future the just pop over to youtube and search for cleaning the maf. Plenty on there to keep you entertained.