2012 Ford transit mk7 euro5 headlights not turning on

[Shirazman]

Hi there

My mk7 euro 5 transit has been difficult to start the last few days, often requiring 3-4 attempts and a bit of accelerator.

I noticed my a/C blows nice and cold, but sometimes when I first turn on the van, the fan may not work at all, and then just turn on after a minute or so.

My van is RWD, so i think this means I have 2 batteries under my drivers seat?

Also more important my headlights tonight would not turn on, they just remained extremely dim. And again, after approx 1-2 minutes they just turned on like normal. Perhaps getting out of the car and closing the door bumped the wires, and made them turn on?

Has anyone had these issues before? Do I possibly need 2 new batteries? Or cpuld it be a bad wire lr ground? Im terrified my headlights could turn off when I'm driving at night and there is no street lights.


Regards
J

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[johnenigma]

Start at the cheapest option. Check all your battery connections are clean and tight. Don't presume. Then check starter connections.

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[davyjcb]

With your ign switched off operate the dip /full beam switch, your head lamps should come on in home safe mode if they do I'd be checking the ignition switch

[knobby1]

often requiring 3-4 attempts and a bit of accelerator.Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

This does nothing, the throttle is "Fly-by-wire" and the PCM disables the pedal until a stable idle of ~800rpm is achieved.

Many years ago my Father used to pump the throttle a couple of times on his old Cortina to help it start....he still does it today in his newer fuel injected cars...I've told him it does nothing but he still believes it does..

Lord Knobrot

[Shirazman]

Hi guys, it happened again tonight (twice).
My headlights wouldn't turn on.
I realised though, that if I pressed something else, such as adjust my electric mirrors, the headlights would turn on (and there is a slight click from somewhere in the cabin). Does this narrow the problem down to something specific?


Regards
John

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[Shirazman]

Okay it happened again tonight. However this time nothing seemed to get the headlights to work. I thought adjusting the electric mirrors last time did something. This time that definitely didn't work.
I also noticed that there didn't seem to be any power going to my AC fan. Only when the lights turned on a few minutes later, did my AC fan start working at exactly the same time.
Does this help narrow down the problem? Any advise would be really appreciated.
Ps would this be related to my sliding door lock not working at all?

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[Cider Andy]

If it has a front battery get it drop tested.

[Cider Andy]

...Many years ago my Father used to pump the throttle a couple of times on his old Cortina to help it start....

If it had a Weber 32/36DGAV you were supposed to, to set the choke. But yes, it does nothing whatsoever with a fly-by-wire throttle....

[johnenigma]

Have you checked battery connections yet? As already said, your batteries need drop testing. Until you give proper answers, you are just pi**ing in the wind.

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[johnenigma]

Your sliding door not central locking not working properly is probably a rubber tyre coming off the centre roller allowing the door to drop down, missing the contacts on the post.

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[reevco62]

often requiring 3-4 attempts and a bit of accelerator.Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

This does nothing, the throttle is "Fly-by-wire" and the PCM disables the pedal until a stable idle of ~800rpm is achieved.

Many years ago my Father used to pump the throttle a couple of times on his old Cortina to help it start....he still does it today in his newer fuel injected cars...I've told him it does nothing but he still believes it does..

Lord Knobrot

That was the way to start the old cars you had to prime the carb first with a bit of petrol, I STILL DO with my old Mk3 Cortina

[reevco62]

Sounds like it's the front battery thats flat, the one that works the accessories, charge it up and I bet that will sort it out....

But you will need to find out what drained it

[Shirazman]

Your sliding door not central locking not working properly is probably a rubber tyre coming off the centre roller allowing the door to drop down, missing the contacts on the post.

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Hi John,
Thanks for your help.
I understand there are three components which let the door slide (top, middle and bottom).
When you say rubber tyre coming off the centre roller, just checking if you mean the middle part?
I.e the bottom left on this photo?
I see i can buy all 3 from eBay Australia for approx AU$40. Would these be okay? I'm thinking genuine ford could be several hundred.

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[Shirazman]

Alternatively can the rubber tyre part just be re fitted to the one I have on the car?

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[bambi mk 1]

...Many years ago my Father used to pump the throttle a couple of times on his old Cortina to help it start....

If it had a Weber 32/36DGAV you were supposed to, to set the choke. But yes, it does nothing whatsoever with a fly-by-wire throttle....

The choke cable was the early fly-by wire version .