Transit MK7 DOUBLE LOCKING ISSUE

[Hornsey]

Transit MK7 T260 FWD low roof

Hi guys,

I am sorry if this is covered already but I have been Searching for a few days and cannot find same covered in the forums.
I have Ford Transit 2009 t260 fwd. About a month ago the van would not lock as soon as it's locked it would unlocks and would beep to say doors not closed so I took it to the garage. They replaced the the rear door lock but since then if I double lock the van, the van cannot be opened.
so I have to open the van manually when I turn the key clockwise once in driver door lock, it opens only the front driver door and nothing else if I double open clockwise, it does not open anything. Once I managed to get in i need to put the key inside start the engine or try locking the door when the doors open and somehow it unlocks. I'm not sure if it's the driver door lock that is faulty or something else. I also noticed since it has been back from the garage. The loading area lights go off very quickly. Also when I lock or unlock the cab light indicator inside goes on and off.

Any help will really be appreciated

[Altransit]

A FWD would normally only have one battery under the seat, but do you have two by any chance?

When you deadlock the van, is that with the key, or the fob? When you lock it, can you unlock it immediately?

[Hornsey]

Thanks for the msg.

I can only see one battery under the driver's eat

I just tried to double dead lock using the key and it would not lock deadlocks but after 7 or 8 times It did activate double dead locks but then i am.unable to open it again

When I keep pressing the button for locking I can hear relay clicking noise so it seems like it take quote a few attempts to unlock

Thanks in advance

[knobby1]

Thanks for the msg.

I can only see one battery under the driver's eat

I just tried to double dead lock using the key and it would not lock deadlocks but after 7 or 8 times It did activate double dead locks but then i am.unable to open it again

When I keep pressing the button for locking I can hear relay clicking noise so it seems like it take quote a few attempts to unlock

Thanks in advance

Sounds like you may have a duff door latch...or loom to it.

Lord Knobrot

[Hornsey]

Thanks. I replaced the driver door lock mechanism complete but issue stays the same. After changing the door lock , it opened the locks normally few times then back to same issue

Is there any way to check the wiring loom or any wiring diagram available ?

Bu the way , diagnostics says unable to read DTC ON the rcm , I have not had any accident or airbags being deployed , could it be related to it?

Also if you can recommend any good auto electrician north london / Essex area ?

Thanks

[knobby1]

Also if you can recommend any good auto electrician north london / Essex area ? Thanks

Not likely....I'm in Brisbane Australia..

Lord Knobrot

[Deke]

I had exactly this problem on my Mk6, the loom that goes from the body to the rear door developed a fault. Check the little bit of loom that's visible. Is it unusually bent, like it's kind of doubled back on itself? If so, that's where the problem is.

It's a weak design and bound to happen sooner or later.

[Hornsey]

Thanks for the msg, I happen to investigate the rear door lock wiring and found that the mechanic who looked in the 1st place ( when the doors would not lock and horn would beep) he replaced the rear lock but he also put jumper cable between two black wires so I as soon as I disconnected the jumper , the van would not lock I.e it would lock and unlock straight away with horn

So mechanic charged me full wack for the repair and new door lock but he never mentioned he bypassed something

Is there any way to get wiring diagram for the rear and back door locks please ?

I suspect it could be side door lock issue but I want to make sure it has an issue with testing (if someone can help me in testing procedure please )

There see three contacts to the sliding door not sure if door lock own wiring also play part in locking conformation

Any help will greatly be appreciated

[andz327]

Clean the 3 contacts on slide door and where they touch on the body ,but the rear door wiring could have a problem where the wires go through the black plastic tubes from door post into door as it's common for wiring probs around that area with doors opening and closing after a while wires break

ANDZ

[Jay2018]

Clean the 3 contacts on slide door and where they touch on the body ,but the rear door wiring could have a problem where the wires go through the black plastic tubes from door post into door as it's common for wiring probs around that area with doors opening and closing after a while wires break

ANDZ

Yeah this sounds like the classic rear door loom buggery. I don't think your mechanic is bypassing anything, think he has joined two ends of wire that have torn apart. Does this 'bypassing wire' as you call it come out of the plastic tubes that go from the van body into the door? There is a good chance that a few of those wires are finished...

[Hornsey]

Please see attached pic , wire 1 and 3 on right side of the connector has been bridged so when I un bridge the van would not lock

I will have another look later on to see if any wire has been damaged

Thanks

[Jay2018]

You can unplug that entire loom from behind the light and from inside the door; whip it out and have a look. I can't work out what's going on from your picture. That look likes the correct loom that usually goes wrong. Guaranteed from looking at what your mechanic has been fingering that the loom has issues further up and most likely within the tubed area that slides in and out of the door frame. You may find you need to cut large lengths of it away and resolder new wire, as the wire inside oxidises far into the sheathing.

What I mean is the end you have freshly snipped may look brand new, but if you follow that fresh bit of copper further up, you MAY find that it is oxidised well into the sheathing...