MK5: How to release the brake drum from the drum brake

[Chug]

There is enough room to fit the shoes and springs and h/brake cable without having to remove the hub, I've never heard of anyone removing the hub to swap rear brakes.

[dumper]

There is enough room to fit the shoes and springs and h/brake cable without having to remove the hub, I've never heard of anyone removing the hub to swap rear brakes.

Yes done it both ways bit more fiddly with the hub on special if you got porky fingers I’m not used to changing them I only removed the hub if seal weeping,
Just one more thought if you only took one drum off Mark the other one before you take it off so it goes back in the same place forgot about that earlier on you can get brake judder if they go back on in a different place I did it once forgot to mark one side and got brake judder took me 3 attempts to get drum back on in the original place to stop it .

[Colibri]

@dumper and Chuggy,
Many thanks for info!

[bortaf]

Never ever removed a halfshaft to do shoes, remove the shoe hold down disc/spring and pin from both shoes so you can pull them forward and inwards to take some pressure off the return spings, then remove the top and bottom (return) springs that run from shoe to shoe, then you can swing the shoes out around the hub to get to the hand brake cable and remove that, then both shoes are fully stripped and or changed on the bench.
I usually put the adjuster and bottton return spring on on the bench then once back on the axle i fit the H/B cable, swing the shoes back around the hub, seat the shoes in the bottom retainer and on the cylinder, fit the retaining springs/disc and pin then refit the top sping last of all.
It is a fiddle and you will slip of the last spring a lot but that's how it is TBH.

[Colibri]

Hello,

Due to the holiday season, my feedback is unfortunately a little late: I had successfully changed the brake shoes and brake cylinders on the rear axle. The brake test of the general inspection went perfectly.
My learning curve was big. Actually, removing the drum was the least or no problem at all: with a hammer, a wooden wedge and a few measured blows against the edge of the drum on all sides (away from the axis, outwards), the drum could be removed after seconds. The drum on the other side was surprisingly released at the same time and could be removed immediately.

A big thank you again for your encouraging and constructive tips and advice!!!

Below are notes and photos that might help other hobby mechanics.

Colibri

My most important utensils at work:
• Mobile phone (for taking photos and comparing the position of the components when reassembling) and for taking notes (e.g. number of levels of the parking brake until the brake starts to apply / rear axle completely blocked; measured distance between the parking brake handle and the floor mat when the rear axle is fully fixed) and for reviewing relevant general information assembly videos (youtube)
• Permanent pen to mark the position of the brake drums in relation to the wheel hub disks before starting work, so that both brake drums move back to the same side and position
• 5 tools of a 15-piece drum and disc brake tool set (I got it extra, online for 70 €) for dismantling and assembling the retraction springs (!), For ripping off the paint on the new brake shoes where handbrake lever and adjuster must be attached so that they can move freely again to loosen the bleeder screws when bleeding
• Cordless screwdriver with wire brush attachments for cleaning the brake drums (except the area where the shoes grip), the carrier plate, the handbrake lever and the components of the automatic adjustment, which had to be re-installed as they were not included in the brake shoe Kit Pro
• brake shoe KIT PRO set incl. brake cylinder, return springs, hold-down device and mounting accessories, unfortunately without adjustment
• Anti-creaking paste, copper paste, brake fluid (I had then replaced the brake fluid of the whole system, because I had then removed and overhauled the brake booster (see viewtopic.php?f=4&t=200541&c=1)
• Wire brushes, brake cleaner, sandpaper, drip tray and oilcloth (so that the floor is not contaminated with brake cleaner, brake fluid, etc.), work gloves


Tricky things:
• Disassemble and assemble the retraction springs (thanks to the special tools still reasonably feasible)
• Installation of handbrake lever and adjustment on the brake shoes (I don't understand why the bolts of the new brake shoes have to be painted so thickly on which the handbrake lever and adjustment are attached so that they do not fit; Caution: do not hammer up with force, otherwise the the bolts are loosened from the brake shoe, and the components are not movable either. I used a coarse rasp to file the paint off)
• Adjusting the brake after installing the new components: After completing the work and reassembling the brake drums, when I operated the parking brake, I noticed that it now starts to brake much later than before (more steps necessary, greater distance between the handle and the doormat) and not completely blocking the rear axle. So the brake drums were pulled off again, the upper retraction springs loosened again, then the position of the adjuster corrected, now it was a little trickier to get the drum over the brake shoes. The retest of the handbrake was then satisfactory: fewer clicks and less distance than was initially measured before work began. Incidentally, I was unable to adjust the adjuster using the rubber stopper openings on the base plate.
• When cleaning the drums, I had almost completely removed the markings for the correct side and position. So be careful in your work zeal.
• The real annoyance and frustration with the whole project came completely unexpectedly at the end while bleeding: the bleeder screw of the disc brake at the front left was so rusted that I needed almost more time to release this than to do all the brake work. However, since I had to bleed the whole system (changing the brake fluid, working on the brake booster) I couldn't get around it. Special key for vent screws, heat (unfortunately I only had a hair dryer), WD40, rust remover overnight, bouncing, water pump pliers - none of it helped. The hexagonal profile of the screw was round in no time. I then drilled a hole across the vent screw to use an allen key and old drill bits to put a lever on the vent screw. However, these broke off or bent. Ultimately, it only worked a day later with a graphite solution that I had previously brushed on every few hours and left to work overnight, after bouncing again and with a key size smaller that I could somehow press / hammer over the round hexagonal profile. After this nightmare, I removed all the venting screws, including those of the new rear brake cylinder, applied copper paste to their threads and, after venting, coated the outside with rope grease in the hope that I would be spared such a nightmare in the future. Furthermore, I will probably apply graphite solution well before the next planned venting.

TS_brake-drum-work.jpg