ABS light on and traction control off

[Stike83]

I tried finding answers to this, but seems most people have had a wire cut somewhere. Couldn't find any problems with wiring.

History: the car had not been moved for almost 2 months during last summer and when I started it again the abs light stayed on. Before this event it never happened before. So i would suspect something wrong with wiring (like ants eating them?)

Anyhow, i tried to check all wires, nothing wrong what i could find. Also opened all connecters to the sensors and measured the resistance and they all seemed fine, showing exactly the same resistance on all four wheels. Next up, I didn't start the car but put turned the key to on, and measured the other side of the connecters, found out each one receives 4.8V (measured in DC). But this gave me the knowledge because they all measured the same resistance from the connecters to the abs sensors the wiring and the same voltage from the connecters the wiring between the sensors and the abs system should be fine?
I also checked the 2 fuses, one in the engine compartment (20A) and one in the dashboard (5A) and both are okay.
The brake fluid level is topped up, even maybe a bit over max. So should not be that either?

Any suggestions what to do? Where to find the problem?
The car is a Ford transit rwd chassis cab from 2001 with 2.4di 120hp. Can anyone confirm the numbers also?

1.66 -1.68k for the abs sensors?
Car with key in on, 4.8V DC on the other side of the connector?

Brakes are pretty new both back and front. But the sensor is in front only attached to the abs ring and back into drum so probably it can't measure brakes, only speed?

[knobby1]

I tried finding answers to this, but seems most people have had a wire cut somewhere. Couldn't find any problems with wiring.

History: the car had not been moved for almost 2 months during last summer and when I started it again the abs light stayed on. Before this event it never happened before. So i would suspect something wrong with wiring (like ants eating them?)

Anyhow, i tried to check all wires, nothing wrong what i could find. Also opened all connecters to the sensors and measured the resistance and they all seemed fine, showing exactly the same resistance on all four wheels. Next up, I didn't start the car but put turned the key to on, and measured the other side of the connecters, found out each one receives 4.8V (measured in DC). But this gave me the knowledge because they all measured the same resistance from the connecters to the abs sensors the wiring and the same voltage from the connecters the wiring between the sensors and the abs system should be fine?
I also checked the 2 fuses, one in the engine compartment (20A) and one in the dashboard (5A) and both are okay.
The brake fluid level is topped up, even maybe a bit over max. So should not be that either?

Any suggestions what to do? Where to find the problem?
The car is a Ford transit rwd chassis cab from 2001 with 2.4di 120hp. Can anyone confirm the numbers also?

1.66 -1.68k for the abs sensors?
Car with key in on, 4.8V DC on the other side of the connector?

Brakes are pretty new both back and front. But the sensor is in front only attached to the abs ring and back into drum so probably it can't measure brakes, only speed?

Speedo is driven by a sensor in the gearbox on the Mk6's, Mk7's use the ABS sensors for the speedo. Didn't think the Mk6 had T/C..??

I believe fuse F8 is the ABS fuse in a Mk6...see here: viewtopic.php?f=40&t=198266

Have you had the codes read for ABS faults..?? It may give an idea of somewhere more specific look.

Lord Knobrot

[Stike83]

True, not talking about ESP, MK6 doesn't have that. But was actually referring to the anti-slip button which is off all the time because ABS light is on.

I have checked both fuses, the main one in the engine bay, 20A and the 5A abs/radio in the cabin. Both are fine.

I just ordered an elm to read the codes, will that do? Will take a couple of days before I get it.

[knobby1]

I just ordered an elm to read the codes, will that do? Will take a couple of days before I get it.

You'll also need Forscan on a Windoze laptop.

Lord Knobrot

[Stike83]

OKey! Took some time, first ELM was not compatible with forscan. But i bought a second one and that worked. Got 5 codes! They seem to be connected..

ABS C1095 abs modul/pump electrical issue: this light comes on when the pumps modul is shortcuted or has a problem with the connection.
Apparently this code can be because of:
-Low voltage
-wrong voltage
-the voltage of the modul
-Check fuses
-damaged or dirty connection
-check for earth connection/shortcuts

and probably because of this:
C1175 left back tire
C1165 Right back tire
C1145 right front tire
C1155 left front tire

So yes, apparentrely some connection is bad somewhere. but most probably before the modul, any clues where to seek? or how to measure? As earlied stated, i got less then 5V to each sensor.. could this be that somehow the modul actually gets only 5V, or should it be like that?

So as everyone else with ABS problems, seems to be a connection somewhere.. any hints of where to measure would be appreciated!

HUGE THANKS in advance!

[Stike83]

I actually realized that the four codes from the wheels came because I measured the voltage to the sensor. So I deleted the fault codes, and run the diagnostic tools, and got only the C1095 returning. But reading of other people, they seem to have changed the whole unit..?

[Stike83]

So, if i actually delete the code, it doesn't light up by itself again when starting engine. Car is jacked up and has some other maintenance going on, so not sure what happens if I start driving.. the abs light and fault code comes on again if i use forscan and make the abs self test. Not sure if this helps?

[Stike83]

Not like I got any answers yet, but..

I drove around the yard and not maybe as any kind of surprise, the ABS light lighted up again.

So probably i need to change the abs module? Seems many have done that and that way fixed the problem?

I will post if that helped.. now i need to find the right part..

Anyone know if the numbers actually do matter on a 2001 transit? I found the correct numbers on some used parts on eBay.. but have someone just changed with a similar part with a different serial code?

[Stike83]

Answering myself, for other people for future similar problems and finding a solution for this problem.

Get a forscan elm327 diagnostic tool. Found one on eBay for around 15 euros. Be sure that it is designed for forscan.

If you get the same code i got, you could run through forscan the abs test. Listen carefully what happens, mine clicked a couple of times, then silence and in the end it clicked some more again..

If this happens without a buzzing motor sound, you're abs units motor is most probably stuck. This was the case for me. You can test it as well, just remove the connector (located underneath on the left front side of the unit), give it 12v and listen for a humming motor sound. If nothing and you only get sparks like i did. There you have your problem.

I found a replacement unit with the same numbers on it on ebay and by changing that the problem disappeared. First i needed though to delete the code. Then i ran the test again, this time the clicking sound was followed by the humming sound of the electric motor and took also a bit longer. In the end the test ran and showed no problems. Abs light gone.

Gotta admit the unit change is a bit of a pain in the ass..i took away one of the huge turbo pipes, took the fuse box out as much as possible and the front right light (I've changed it 2 yrs ago so i knew it comes off with just 4 screws and super fast). This way i got some space to work. Still having one leaking connector so it really isn't according to me such an easy job. But changing the unit took me a bit over 1 hour..
And after this you need to bleed the system, the forscan has a bleeding program, with the help of that you can bleed each wheel separately and it opens up the valves in the abs unit for that wheel.

Problem solved.