Engine cutting out due to high temperature

[Treebob90]

Transit 100 T430 17s RWD 2402CC minibus

Have searched the forum but haven’t found anything to help

Driving along the temp shoots up engine cuts out. Wait a bit and bleed air from the coolant system can drive again for a bit. Top rad pipe hot bottom cold.


Have had the cylinder head temp sensor replaced, viscous fan replaced, thermostat replaced.

Have removed top rad hose, squeezed bottom hose and water shoots out so guessing radiator not blocked?

How do I check water pump so see if it’s that?

And any ideas on what could be wrong? 2 mechanics so far haven’t been able to sort it.

[Treebob90]

Here is some more information about my issue if somebody has experienced it please help


My minibus drives along ok then all of a sudden the temp gauge goes right up into the red and the engine looses power, no warning lights show, pulling over and resting the needle will sometimes drop down, turning the engine off and waiting a minute normally works so I can drive again. It seems to happen more when either going up a hill or going more than 2000revs.

I had my mobile mechanic come round to have a look, the engine was showing a drive train issue code (wouldn’t clear), after hours of googling and him speaking to others it was either a TPO switch issue (not fitted on my van) or the cylinder head temp sensor. I got the sensor replaced and the code cleared off, drove it and when going about 3500 revs the temp raised and the van lost power again, still no warning light.

Have had the viscous fan replaced yet it still happens and have changed the thermostat

[gt_addict]

After you release the pressure how long can you drive it again?

[Treebob90]

On flat ground staying below 2000 revs and no more than 30 MPH can go for up to 20 mins tops. If you put a hill into the mix can be only about 5 mins

[wojciech]

How do I check water pump so see if it’s that?

.

A typical symptom of a lack of coolant circulation is a lack of cabin heating.
Turn on the maximum temperature of the air in the cabin and check if hot air is being blown in. If cold or only slightly warm air is still blown in - there is a suggestion of damaging the water pump.

Do not drive the van with a damaged cooling system - if you lead to the situation that the PCM puts the engine into the overheating protection mode several times - sooner or later you will have to replace the head gasket. And in these engines this is a very serious repair.

the van lost power again, still no warning light.

This is how the motor behaves in the overheating protection mode - similar to the limp mode, but the warning light is off.

[Treebob90]

Will try the fan later

Van is off the road until I get it fixed, had already contemplated the idea of having the pump off for a few days whilst waiting for the part to arrive (if I took it off to have a physical look)

[wojciech]

Will try the fan later

Damage to the viscous coupling cannot be ruled out.
Initial checking is simple - with the engine running hot, try to stop the fan with folded newspaper (don't try it with your hand!). If the fan is easy to stop - the viscous coupling is damaged.

[Treebob90]

Checked the fan……..hot air comes out when on full heat, small but noticeable difference between medium and high.

I had the viscous fan pump/coupling (garage said pump but presume is the coupling, nice shiny new bit between engine block and radiator fan)


Any other suggestions to check?

[Treebob90]

Also is it possible/happened before that there is debris build up in the radiator that is blocking water leaving it through the exit pipe but if the exit pipe is squeezed it will push the water out of the entry pipe? Like a one way valve sort of effect?

[tibsy]

Also is it possible/happened before that there is debris build up in the radiator that is blocking water leaving it through the exit pipe but if the exit pipe is squeezed it will push the water out of the entry pipe? Like a one way valve sort of effect?

Then take Pipes or rad off and reverse flush it!

[Treebob90]

Also is it possible/happened before that there is debris build up in the radiator that is blocking water leaving it through the exit pipe but if the exit pipe is squeezed it will push the water out of the entry pipe? Like a one way valve sort of effect?

Then take Pipes or rad off and reverse flush it!

Going to try this when I have spare time, was just wandering if anyone had heard of it happening in reality rather than just me theorising a situation

[Treebob90]

When I drop the Rad off to see if it’s blocked do you think it would be worth taking the water pump off and physically checking the blades inside to see if there’s any damage?

[Treebob90]

Still need to clean rad and check pump but noticed I didn’t put a clip on properly on one pipe when I changed the thermostat (whoops) so took it around the block hoping that would sort it, no luck.

Was driving around fine, heaters kicking out hot air, temp middle of the gauge, started to go up hill and temp shot up. Turned engine of and on and temp dropped back down to middle again.


Am I missing anything obvious?

Cherrs

[knobby1]

Still need to clean rad and check pump but noticed I didn’t put a clip on properly on one pipe when I changed the thermostat (whoops) so took it around the block hoping that would sort it, no luck.

Was driving around fine, heaters kicking out hot air, temp middle of the gauge, started to go up hill and temp shot up. Turned engine of and on and temp dropped back down to middle again.


Am I missing anything obvious?

Cherrs

Have you actually checked the CHT sensor and/or it's wiring..??

Water pump impeller not spinning on the shift.???

Lord Knobrot

[Treebob90]

I’ve had the cylinder head temp sensor replaced, first thing I had done.

To check the pump impeller is that done by taking the pump off and looking inside? If it is that’s on my to do list next week.

Just wandering if there was anything thing else that I was missing?

Cheers