help needed! wiring issue / buzzing sound

[beanis]

mk7 2013 euro 5 transit 2.2

I am really at wits end and need help on this issue which i think is wiring

I keep getting a low boost p0299 error, and replacing actuator on turbo sorted for a bit but not it is back, and the van has again broken the actuator. I know this sounds like its just sticky vanes but my garage says they seem fine.

What worries me is that there is a high pitched whining / buzzing noise when the ignition is one (and when van is running too). It stops if I unplug BOTH the EGR and Turbo actuator, but if one is plugged in it buzzes. The actuator is sort of trying to constantly return but can't. But why would it also buzz when unplugged but EGR is plugged in?

Recently too I've had error codes of instrument panel connection loss. AND a few weeks ago i reconnected a broken wire on the dpf because i was getting a dpf error, and a few miles later the van stalled, and said crank shaft sensor error, and immobiliser error.

It;s like the electrics are knackered or shorting somewhere?

Where would I start looking?

The van has had EGR and DPF delete and retune by vantuner

any help of where to start would be great!

[loot]

Can you confirm how many batteries are under the seat? Seems that the problem is low power and it is common for the aux battery to sh*t the bed

[beanis]

Hi Loot,

Just the one battery

I was wondering about it, as it takes a couple of seconds to start wheras my old vans were always right away. But RAC say it's fine.

When I broke down last time (the van just cut out and said immobiliser connection loss and crankshaft sensor) the trip distance reset... which got me wondering if something is disconnecting

The turbo actuator does buzz like hell though, and it is getting worse. Could a van randomly kill two actuators, or could that be wiring? Turbo otherwise seems spot on

[beanis]

Had battery checked by quickfit - said its meant to be 720 amp and its only drawing 523. So said needs a new one.

Would that really be causing all those errors though? Also, i don;t think it makes any difference to the buzzing actuator / egr issue, because that happens even if van is not running, just when ignition is on.

Any more help tips would be greatly appreciated
Still scratching my head!

[knobby1]

Had battery checked by quickfit - said its meant to be 720 amp and its only drawing 523. So said needs a new one.

Would that really be causing all those errors though? Also, i don;t think it makes any difference to the buzzing actuator / egr issue, because that happens even if van is not running, just when ignition is on.

Any more help tips would be greatly appreciated
Still scratching my head!

Poorly batteries can cause all sorts of gremlins...

Lord Knobrot

[beanis]

Update:

I have put in a brand new bosch battery.
I put on a new turbo actuator.
I unplugged the EGR and blanked it (it's mapped out).

The actuator now actually works, and I can see the live data on forscan of this. But I suspect like last time it will bugger up. Could this be a sticking turbo? Just putting off paying out for a turbo.

But the van still has a high pitched electrical sound for 15 seconds after switch off. Is that normal, fuel solnoid or something?

Also I wanted to check, my MAF reading is 17 g/s on idle, and about 40 when at maybe 3000 rpm. Is that high because the EGR is blanked/mapped out?
And the MAP is about 100 kPa at idle and 119 kPa when maybe 3 - 4000rpm. Seems in line with MAF reading.

My main question is this: Could an electrical issue be knackering / stripping my turbo actuator? Or can this only be because the Turbo itself is sticking?

Thanks for all the help, this forum is an absolute blessing!

[knobby1]

Update:

I have put in a brand new bosch battery.
I put on a new turbo actuator.
I unplugged the EGR and blanked it (it's mapped out).

The actuator now actually works, and I can see the live data on forscan of this. But I suspect like last time it will bugger up. Could this be a sticking turbo? Just putting off paying out for a turbo.

But the van still has a high pitched electrical sound for 15 seconds after switch off. Is that normal, fuel solnoid or something?

Also I wanted to check, my MAF reading is 17 g/s on idle, and about 40 when at maybe 3000 rpm. Is that high because the EGR is blanked/mapped out?
And the MAP is about 100 kPa at idle and 119 kPa when maybe 3 - 4000rpm. Seems in line with MAF reading.

My main question is this: Could an electrical issue be knackering / stripping my turbo actuator? Or can this only be because the Turbo itself is sticking?

Thanks for all the help, this forum is an absolute blessing!

The VNT turbo's can be prone to soot/carbon build-up causing the vanes to stick, this in turn can cause the actuator to break.

High pitched squeal for ~20-30secs is normal after turning enngine off. You should also hear the EGR self clean cycle...but yours is mapped out so may not do it.

Lord Knobrot

[beanis]

Ah, excellent, glad the electric squealing sound is normal.

Yeah EGR mapped out, and does no self clean.

Thanks for turbo advice, I think I'm heading towards a reconditioned unit and see if this helps. Is that a hard job to replace turbo, can it be done ok without ramps? I only have the street to work on.

Will update when I have more info on issue as it may help others!

Thanks for advice so far

[loot]

If you unplug the actuator rod you should be able your push pull it fairly easy.

[beanis]

It move 'fairly' easily, but there is a very slight notchyness when I pull it up, just at the top end. It's still easy to move but not butter smooth. Infact feels almost a bit loose if that makes sense, but also notch. Haha.

Not sure what that means. Maybe it sticks once warmed up?

[beanis]

one other thing, wastegate actuator on turbo reads 4.00 when idle, and on boosting goes to something like 1.50

I guess 4.00 is closed, and 1.5 is almost open fully (0 being fully open?)

[knobby1]

one other thing, wastegate actuator on turbo reads 4.00 when idle, and on boosting goes to something like 1.50

I guess 4.00 is closed, and 1.5 is almost open fully (0 being fully open?)

Umm...The VNT turbos don't have a waste gate...they have small vanes inside the housing which redirect the exhaust gasses through the turbine. The electronic actuator moves the vanes.

Similar to this one..:

hb-turbo-cut-vnt-1.jpg

Lord Knobrot

[beanis]

Aaah I get it now, thanks!