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MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

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MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby Cavesurfer » Tue Aug 17, 2021 9:48 am

Good morning all

This is my first post so please feel free to point me in the right direction if I'm posting in the wrong place or not giving enough information.

So, as the subject implies, my MK7 won't start. It turns over just fine and when you first turn the key it sounds like it fires, but not enough to then keep it going. As it continues to turn over it sounds like it's turning over very quickly, again like it's on the verge of firing, but just not quite making it.

When this first happened I plugged it into an OBD2 tool on my laptop and that came up with two codes; one saying there was a problem with the charging light circuit (which I assume means the smart charging connection on the alternator), and another code indicating that the EGR was stuck open.

I removed and reconnected the smart charging circuit for the alternator (which is a new unit...only about four months old). I ordered a new EGR and refitted this, though there appeared to be nothing wrong with the old EGR...the valve was not stuck open as reported and it wasn't in fact too coked up. The crank mechanism looked a bit corroded and manky, so it seemed like a good plan to replace it anyway.

No change...exactly the same symptom when trying to start the engine. However, there are now no error codes being flagged up.

Looking online at various forums there seemed to be a theme with fuel rail problems, specifically the PRV and SCV, so I replaced these, blead the fuel system and tried again. No change.

Next trawl on the forums suggested that the MAF sensor might be at fault, so just replaced this too and...

...still no change. Exactly the same symptoms. Fires when you first turn the key, but not enough to sustain the engine actually running, and then continues to turn over very quickly, almost on the verge of running.

Next trawl through all things transit suggests that this might be a problem relating to the crank position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. I have a new crank sensor to put on, but thought it's about time I consult with all you guys to see if anyone has another other clues before I start pulling the thing apart to replace the crank sensor.

All thoughts and ideas very welcome...

Thank you
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby teeone » Tue Aug 17, 2021 10:26 am

Are you using forscan on your laptop?
If you are you can check the crank sensor is syncing while cranking.
Itll also tell you if you have fuel pressure etc


As for pulling it appart, its a 7mm socket, and down below the vac pump area top of the gearbox, pretty much all by feel. Get a light and a mirror and youll see what your dealing with.
When you know you can do it one handed
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby knobby1 » Tue Aug 17, 2021 8:02 pm

Cavesurfer wrote:Good morning all
Looking online at various forums there seemed to be a theme with fuel rail problems, specifically the PRV and SCV, so I replaced these, blead the fuel system and tried again. No change.Thank you


Was it running ok before this issue? Did it happen suddenly or has it been getting progressively worse..?? Is you fuel filter full or empty..??

When you replaced the SCV & PRV, were the pump, pilot and injector learns carried out sucessfully..?? If not it will never run properly. No need to bleed a TDCi fuel system, they are self bleeding.

Forscan will give real time date on fuel rail pressures, cam & crank sync etc. Forscan & IDS have a "Starting issues" tab in the service functions menu. You need proper diagnostics rather than just throwing parts at it and hoping for the best.

As you've no doubt found out, guessing and throwing parts at it is costly and time consuming....for no result.

Lord Knobrot
2008 2.4L RWD 170+PS 6-speed 350 LWB High Roof.

When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather, not screaming like the passengers in his car..!
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby Cavesurfer » Tue Aug 17, 2021 8:13 pm

teeone wrote:Are you using forscan on your laptop?
If you are you can check the crank sensor is syncing while cranking.
Itll also tell you if you have fuel pressure etc


As for pulling it appart, its a 7mm socket, and down below the vac pump area top of the gearbox, pretty much all by feel. Get a light and a mirror and youll see what your dealing with.
When you know you can do it one handed


Yes, I'm using forscan. That's great if it can give me some info on the crank sensor. Is it obvious how to go about this?
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby Cavesurfer » Tue Aug 17, 2021 8:28 pm

knobby1 wrote:
Cavesurfer wrote:Good morning all
Looking online at various forums there seemed to be a theme with fuel rail problems, specifically the PRV and SCV, so I replaced these, blead the fuel system and tried again. No change.Thank you


Was it running ok before this issue? Did it happen suddenly or has it been getting progressively worse..?? Is you fuel filter full or empty..??

When you replaced the SCV & PRV, were the pump, pilot and injector learns carried out sucessfully..?? If not it will never run properly. No need to bleed a TDCi fuel system, they are self bleeding.

Forscan will give real time date on fuel rail pressures, cam & crank sync etc. Forscan & IDS have a "Starting issues" tab in the service functions menu. You need proper diagnostics rather than just throwing parts at it and hoping for the best.

As you've no doubt found out, guessing and throwing parts at it is costly and time consuming....for no result.

Lord Knobrot


Thank you so much. This is really helpful.

I guess this didn't actually happen suddenly in fact. I picked the van up from an MOT and initially it would not start at the garage, when it's never been a problem before. I asked the garage guys to take a look so they plugged in their diagnostic tools and came up with the two error codes that I already mentioned (charge indicator circuit problems and EGR valve stuck open). However, after a couple of tries it then started without a problem and ran for two or three days without problems...only short journies though. I then went out on a slightly longer journey, about an hour or so, left the van all day while I was working on a site, and then had some difficulty starting it at the end of the day. It did start after three or four tries though, and I drive home without any issues. It was driving absolutely fine, no hesitation, no loss of power of anything. The next day it refused to start and that's how it's been ever since.

I will check the fuel filter. I did replace it recently. Is it possible that it's not sealing in some way?

Everything OBD is new to me. My last vehicle was a 200TDi defender which can generally be fixed with a selection of metric spanners regardless of the problem. So I am very much a newby as far as a 'modern' OBD2 engine is concerned.

So I'm using forscan which seems great, but haven't touched 'learns'. Is this relatively intuitive? Is this necessary after fitting any new parts then?

As you say, throwing parts at the problem doesn't feel like it's getting me anywhere. I will work through forscan again and see what I can find. Anything on starting issues will be very helpful I'm sure.

Seems to me I need a checklist:

Check fuel filter is full
Check fuel pressures - using forscan if this is possible
Check crank and cam sensors - using forscan
Run learn procedures for pump, pilot and injectors

Does this sound about right?

Thanks
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby knobby1 » Tue Aug 17, 2021 8:46 pm

If it's hard to start after standing for a while, you may have an "air leak" in the low pressure side of the fuel system. This allows air in and the fuel then siphons back to tank...making it difficult to start later on...or the next day. The Euro-4 machine low pressure lines actually run at a small vacuum and have to basically "suck" the fuel up from the tank to the pump. The Pre-Euro-5 machines don't have an in-tank pump. Common places to look are the filter seal, filter head itself, they can crack letting air in, the 4 lines connected to the filter head have O-rings in them which can perish and crack, again, letting air in. Lastly is the leakback lines and/or their tiny green O-rings on the injectors...same result. Also worth checking the fuel "pick-up" line in the tank...we've had them break off or split causing similar issues.

If the filter is empty after sitting for several hours or overnight, you more than likely have air ingress.

Lord Knobrot
2008 2.4L RWD 170+PS 6-speed 350 LWB High Roof.

When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather, not screaming like the passengers in his car..!
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby Cavesurfer » Sat Aug 21, 2021 5:59 pm

knobby1 wrote:If it's hard to start after standing for a while, you may have an "air leak" in the low pressure side of the fuel system. This allows air in and the fuel then siphons back to tank...making it difficult to start later on...or the next day. The Euro-4 machine low pressure lines actually run at a small vacuum and have to basically "suck" the fuel up from the tank to the pump. The Pre-Euro-5 machines don't have an in-tank pump. Common places to look are the filter seal, filter head itself, they can crack letting air in, the 4 lines connected to the filter head have O-rings in them which can perish and crack, again, letting air in. Lastly is the leakback lines and/or their tiny green O-rings on the injectors...same result. Also worth checking the fuel "pick-up" line in the tank...we've had them break off or split causing similar issues.

If the filter is empty after sitting for several hours or overnight, you more than likely have air ingress.

Lord Knobrot


Thanks for all the information. I think an air leak is possible, but here's what I've worked through.

I took the fuel filter off and it was not full to the brim. The fuel is probably around 3” below the corrugated seal at the top. This is a new filter, perhaps around 800 miles old if that. Thinking that this was a clear sign of the filter having blead back into the tank (because of an air leek as suggested) I put the filter back in place and used a bleed pump to suck fuel up from the tank into the filter again. There was an amount of air in the bleed line initially and then the bleed pump started to pull in fuel with no bubbles in the line so i’m Guessing this at least eliminates a problem with the tank pickup.

AT this point I kind of assumed that the filter would be full so tried starting it again, several times, cranking for about 8 to 10 seconds each time before giving it a break.

The same thing happens though; engine turns over at normal crank speed for a moment, there’s a quick moment when it sounds like it’s going it’s going to fire, then nothing, but then the engine begins turning over much faster than I would normally expect it to, as if it’s partially firing.

Being curious about the faster than normal cranking, I unplugged each of the injectors, one at a time in turn, and tried cranking again. The cranking is back to normal cranking speed if I do this, so I think this implies that something is getting to the injectors enough that it’s partially firing in some way, just not sufficiently to keep the engine running. Not sure how much this helps though.

Can I ask about the learn procedures for the Fuel Injector Pilot, Fuel Injector Pump and Injectors?

I can’t see how to run these if I can’t get the engine started. Do I have this right? When I attempt to start any one of these procedures forscan dispays a list of conditions that must be met for the procedure to run but I can't see how any of these procedures will finish without the engine running at normal speed.

Also, does anyone have a link or information on the normal or expected values for odb2 parameters?

I’ve worked out how to monitor these parameters using forscan, but I can’t find any guidance on what the expected ranges of values should be.

Attached are screen shots of a couple of sets of data. The first is monitoring the parameters FRP, Volt (which I assume means the voltage across the fuel rail pressure sensor), and the parameter CRKREF_F.

These are all readings obtained whilst cranking the engine, not whilst the engine is running:

The reading for FRP,Volt is ossilating, peaking at around 1.6 but is also dropping to around 1.1 or 1.2 whilst cranking.

The reading for CRKREF_F is flat-lining at a no fault position.

The second set of parameters I looked at are SYNC, SELTESTDTC, FUELPW-ms, and FRP-KPa.

SYNC (which I assumed is the syncronisation of the crank and cam sensors) is sitting happy at 'Yes' throughout the test.

SELTESTDC (which I think is a diagnostic parameter) is flat-lined at '0'.

FUELPW-ms peaks at 2.24 and then continues to rumble along slightly lower than at around 1.5 ish to 1.8 I'd say.

FRP-KPa (which I think is the fuel rail pressure) peaks at just under 42000 KPa but rumbles along between that and a lower pressure of around 25000 KPa. COnverting this to old money (Psi) gives a range of around 3600 Psi to around 6000psi which sounds quite healthy to me.

Any thoughts, links or suggestions would be much appreciated. I'm thinking I may need to resort to a can of easy start to try and get the thing running if that would work, and then take a fuller set of diagnostics while it's running and hopefully run the learn procedures where possible. I'm not sure this is the right approach though.

Thanks
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby Cavesurfer » Sat Aug 21, 2021 6:06 pm

Forgot to add the screen shots from forscan:

Capture1.JPG

Capture2.JPG


Thanks
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby Cavesurfer » Sun Aug 22, 2021 10:28 pm

So I think I can answer one of my questions myself, and that is that you can’t run a learn without the engine running. I attempted to do so but I now have the error P268B - High pressure fuel pump calibration not learned.

If this is the case, if the van going to be impossible to start anyway, regardless of any other problems?

I spent the morning running through as many of the parameters as I am able to monitor on forscan and came up with results as follows:

IAT_VOLT fluctuating between 2.51 and 2.52
IAT2 fluctuation between 16 and 17 degrees
IAT sitting steady at 35 degrees .................this doesn’t seem right to me. Ambient temperature when I was running th test this morning was around 17 to 18 degrees

Accelerator pedal position parameters APP_MODE, APP_E, APP_D and APP all functioning correctly

AST sitting steady at 0.00 ms can’t remember what this one is now

Battery voltage B+ showing 12.13 volts

Barometric pressure parameters BAR_V sitting around 4.05
Both BARO readings sitting around 100 KPA

Cylinder head temperature CHT sitting at 16 to 17 degrees

CRKREF_F sitting at No Fault

Fuel rail pressure FRP, Volt peaking around 1.61 volts but fluctuating a bit
I covered the actual fuel rail pressure in a previous message and it’s seemed fine

Cylinder balance parameters all showing zero, but I guess they would do until it starts running

Demand injection timing INJANG_DMD .....unfortunately there is no scale on the oscilloscope axis, so I can’t tell what this one is doing

ECU operating state = 1

Engine coolant temp 8 degrees. This seems a bit odd, given that the cylinder head temp was reading 16 to 17 degrees as was the air intake temp

Engine oil temp 29 degrees, but this was after it had been cranked a few times, so that may make sense

Engine RPM. So when I start cranking this is around 200 RPM, which I would guess is about normal, but it then jumps up to about 470 RPM which, as I was suggesting in a previous post seems to suggest that the engine is on the verge of firing enough to run itself.

Fuel level 22%

Fuel pulse width - initially this jumps up to around 2.68ms, but then drops to about half that.

Fuel rail pressure. The desired level (FRP_DSD) is 36687 KPa
The actual pressure is peaking around 39800, but does fluctuate below that.

If there was air getting into the system would this pressure be achievable? Is the fluctuation an indicator that there is air in the system maybe?

Fuel rail temperature 17 degrees

Manifold absolute pressure 99.3 KPa

Mass air flow demanded MAF_DMD 53g/second
Actual mass air flow MAF fluctuating wildly, but then settling to around 10g/second

MISFIRE_HISTORY = On
MISFIRE_CURRENT = Off

Mass of fuel desired (MFDES) starts around 27mg, but then slowly drops of to around something just over 20mg

Pilot correction (PILOT_COR) 128

Pump learn status (PMPLRN_ST) = NEVER....which is the fallout from me try to run a learn for the pump when the engine won’t start...I think

Suction control valve (SCV_DC) , peaks at 100% to start with then drops around 40% or something close to it.

SYNC = Yes
SELTESTDTC = 0
Fuel pulse width (FUELPW) starts at 2.24ms then drop to something like 1.5ms

Some of these make sense to me, others less so. If anyone had the patients to read through this and can see anything obviously awry then i’d be grateful for some pointers.

Reading through some other similar posts I think I need to rig up a separate feed to the fuel pump to eliminate the fuel pick-up and filter side of things, just to see if that makes any difference.

I’m seriously worried about the failed learn for the fuel pump though. I can’t help thinking that i’ve shot myself in the foot there.

As ever, any comments welcome.

Tomorrow it’s easy start and probably a call to a mobile mechanic :shock:

Cheers
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby Cavesurfer » Mon Aug 23, 2021 4:41 pm

Here's the latest if anyone is following this debacle...

I managed to get the van started with a quick squirt of easy start and it ran just fine, despite the failed fuel pump learn. Idle was steady around 850 to 900 RPM.

When it was warmed up sufficiently I ran the fuel pump learn which complete successfully.

Then I tried the pilot learn, which started okay, but came up with an error after the third pressure point learning procedure, saying that the actual pressure in the fuel rail was too far below the required pressure for the learn procedure to complete.

Forscan is telling me that the desired fuel pressure is 23800 KPa, whilst the actual pressure is fluctuating between 20800 KPa and 25180 KPa. Easy to see why the learn procedure failed.

Fuel Rail Pressure and Air FLow.JPG


The blue on the graph is the desired pressure and the green is the actual pressure. Should it concern me that the actual pressure is jumping around so much?

This is when I noticed that fuel was leaking from the rail...possibly from where I fitted the new PRV. When this was done I couldn't find a note anywhere on the tightening torque for the PRV, so it's possible that this just needs tightening a little which I can do. It was leaking at the rate of about 1 drip every couple of seconds or so, which is obviously quite a bit.

Question is, is this leak sufficient to explain the low pressure in the rail, or is there something else going on here?

I'll have a go again tomorrow after I've tightened the PRV.

Is it possible that this low and fluctuating pressure reading is cause by a problem with the pump or the fuel rail pressure sensor?

I've heard the pumps themselves are usually pretty reliable. What about the sensor on the end of the rail though?

So, at conclusions of today's play, the van runs, even if it needs easystart to get it going. I now have a nice message on the dash saying ENGINE MALFUNCTION, even though it runs. I'm guessing this relates to the error code from the failed pilot learn:

P167B - Fuel Injector Learning Not Done

Presumably, this will only give me limp home mode if I had tried to drive it anywhere.

Any thoughts very gratefully received.

Thanks
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby knobby1 » Mon Aug 23, 2021 8:27 pm

I think you're looking too much at many things which don't really matter, if there were faults with any of the sensors, they would normally throw fault codes.

Were the SCV and PRV genuine Denso or Ford items..?? If not you may be doing them again. Have you done an injector leak-off test..?? If the injectors are marginal, it will cause the pilot/injector learn to fail.

PRV needs to be sealed properly, it's tightening torque is silly high and in two stages, #1 is 30nm (22lb-ft), then mark the housing and valve with a marker and another line on the rail 3mm away, then #2 is 172nm (126lb-ft) and the line on the valve must pass the second line on the rail.. Internal sealing washer must be new or it will probably leak internally.

Lord Knobrot
2008 2.4L RWD 170+PS 6-speed 350 LWB High Roof.

When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather, not screaming like the passengers in his car..!
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby Cavesurfer » Mon Aug 23, 2021 10:11 pm

knobby1 wrote:I think you're looking too much at many things which don't really matter, if there were faults with any of the sensors, they would normally throw fault codes.

Were the SCV and PRV genuine Denso or Ford items..?? If not you may be doing them again. Have you done an injector leak-off test..?? If the injectors are marginal, it will cause the pilot/injector learn to fail.

PRV needs to be sealed properly, it's tightening torque is silly high and in two stages, #1 is 30nm (22lb-ft), then mark the housing and valve with a marker and another line on the rail 3mm away, then #2 is 172nm (126lb-ft) and the line on the valve must pass the second line on the rail.. Internal sealing washer must be new or it will probably leak internally.

Lord Knobrot


Yes, I think it's absolutely the case that I'm looking into too much...just thought I'd go through the whole lot to see what I can see. This is all completely new to me so I have a great deal to learn. Back in the day when I had a defender, there was basically one simple rule...if diesel was getting into the engine then it would work. It's certainly not that simple any more.

So yes, the PRV and SCV are both genuine Denso items as this seemed like a good plan.

If the injectors are marginal (meaning internal components worn??) will that mean I get excessive leak-off? Is there a means of running this test this that is quantifiable in some way? I'm thinking fuel hose running from the leak-off line of the injectors into a measuring container of some kind?

Or is there a test I can do with forscan? The leak-off line just seems to go to the fuel filter housing with no sensors of any sort on the way.

I'll check the torque settings for the PRV and follow your guidance there. I don't actually recall the washer, but I will check that as well. Is it a copper item?

I read another similar item on this forum earlier today that seemed to suggest injectors could be the problem, i.e. excessive leak-off in that they are old. The van is 115bhp with about 130,000 miles on it. I've had it about three years and I'm no Michael Schumacher for sure, but I can't speak for the previous owners and how they treated it.

On the issue of air in the fuel line, I realised today that the main fuel line running to the pump from the fuel filter is semi-transparent. While the van was running today I shone a light through the line and there were no bubbles at all so I'm hoping that's fine. On another posting on this forum I saw quite a few comments about always fitting a genuine ford filter (which I didn't) as this not only fits better but will also likely include a finer grain of filter than pattern parts such as the one I have. This, in turn, isn't great for the injectors. Makes sense. Could this go part way to explain why this problem started just a few hundred miles after I fitted the current fuel filter?

Thanks for your invaluable input. Much appreciated.
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby knobby1 » Tue Aug 24, 2021 12:03 am

Cavesurfer wrote:Yes, I think it's absolutely the case that I'm looking into too much...just thought I'd go through the whole lot to see what I can see. This is all completely new to me so I have a great deal to learn. Back in the day when I had a defender, there was basically one simple rule...if diesel was getting into the engine then it would work. It's certainly not that simple any more.

So yes, the PRV and SCV are both genuine Denso items as this seemed like a good plan.

If the injectors are marginal (meaning internal components worn??) will that mean I get excessive leak-off? Is there a means of running this test this that is quantifiable in some way? I'm thinking fuel hose running from the leak-off line of the injectors into a measuring container of some kind?

Or is there a test I can do with forscan? The leak-off line just seems to go to the fuel filter housing with no sensors of any sort on the way.

I'll check the torque settings for the PRV and follow your guidance there. I don't actually recall the washer, but I will check that as well. Is it a copper item?

I read another similar item on this forum earlier today that seemed to suggest injectors could be the problem, i.e. excessive leak-off in that they are old. The van is 115bhp with about 130,000 miles on it. I've had it about three years and I'm no Michael Schumacher for sure, but I can't speak for the previous owners and how they treated it.

On the issue of air in the fuel line, I realised today that the main fuel line running to the pump from the fuel filter is semi-transparent. While the van was running today I shone a light through the line and there were no bubbles at all so I'm hoping that's fine. On another posting on this forum I saw quite a few comments about always fitting a genuine ford filter (which I didn't) as this not only fits better but will also likely include a finer grain of filter than pattern parts such as the one I have. This, in turn, isn't great for the injectors. Makes sense. Could this go part way to explain why this problem started just a few hundred miles after I fitted the current fuel filter?

Thanks for your invaluable input. Much appreciated.


130k miles isn't far at all for a diesel. There's chaps on here with 500k+ miles still using their original injectors, I believe maintenance is the key word here, fuel filters are cheap compared to new injectors...some people run the filters to complete blockage and then complain and blame their van because their engine plays up and/or injectors have let them down.

Regards the injector "leak-off" test...there's rheems of pages on here aboth the subject.....Just do a quick search and you'll find it. It's not covered in IDS or Forscan although they both do have injector balance/contribution data available. Leak-off test is as you have suggested, connect suitable tubing and containers to the leak-back connectors and run the engine, (at operating temp) for 4 minutes at idle, Ford's limits are 25-40ml for each injector. Doesn't really matter if they're a tad higher but they should essentially be equal to each other. Be sure to blank off the leak-back lines after pulling them from the injectors or while the engine isn't running.... otherwise the fuel will tend to siphon back to tank and make it difficult to start next time.

A kit like this is very handy for such work, I have one myself, as do a lot of the chaps on here..:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/19303654040 ... ctupt=true

Regarding the fuel filter, obviously genuine is probably the best...but any "decent quality" filter "should" be fine, just stay away from the cheap Chinese shite...they don't filter well, nor do they seal well.

The internal sealing washer in the PRV is a very thin metal item, not totally sure if it's a copper one though, may well be, has been quite a while since I've had mine out...see here:

tumbnail_fbb82104-7f58-4722-8503-c9446d9dac76_1_1.jpg


Lord Knobrot
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby Cavesurfer » Mon Aug 30, 2021 12:32 pm

So the PRV valve I purchased (genuine Denso) included two aluminium washers. One was clearly a replacement for the copper washer shown in the photo you attached in your last post. It’s thicker than the copper original, which is a cause for concern, but i’ve put it in place and the leak has disappeared. Being thicker and made of a softer material it deformed more than the specification your gave, so in order to achieve the correct tightening torque i had to turn the PRV through nearly 180 degrees after the initial stage of tightening. I’m going to keep a close eye on this. Not sure why denso felt it necessary to replace the original item with an aluminium washer, but it’s not leaking.

Also purchased a leak off test kit and have just run the test this morning. All four injectors we’re well over the 40ml in 4 minutes...in fact I had to terminate the test at around 3m 30s as cylinder #4 had filled the 100ml bottle.

So 4 injectors on order and then I have the fun of fitting and reprogramming I guess. Do you have any words of advice for this? I’ve looked at a couple of videos on this and forscan seems to set up to run this process.

Thanks
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Re: MK7 2.2tdci FWD 2010 won't start

Postby knobby1 » Mon Aug 30, 2021 8:27 pm

Cavesurfer wrote:So the PRV valve I purchased (genuine Denso) included two aluminium washers. One was clearly a replacement for the copper washer shown in the photo you attached in your last post. It’s thicker than the copper original, which is a cause for concern, but i’ve put it in place and the leak has disappeared. Being thicker and made of a softer material it deformed more than the specification your gave, so in order to achieve the correct tightening torque i had to turn the PRV through nearly 180 degrees after the initial stage of tightening. I’m going to keep a close eye on this. Not sure why denso felt it necessary to replace the original item with an aluminium washer, but it’s not leaking.

Also purchased a leak off test kit and have just run the test this morning. All four injectors we’re well over the 40ml in 4 minutes...in fact I had to terminate the test at around 3m 30s as cylinder #4 had filled the 100ml bottle.

So 4 injectors on order and then I have the fun of fitting and reprogramming I guess. Do you have any words of advice for this? I’ve looked at a couple of videos on this and forscan seems to set up to run this process.

Thanks


The 100ml + leak-off on injector #4 will definitely be the cause of failing the learns. Injector coding is relatively easy, it's just the inputting of the 16 digit "correction factor" codes into Forscan or IDS. Then rerun the pump, pilot/injector learns and you should be golden.

Lord Knobrot
2008 2.4L RWD 170+PS 6-speed 350 LWB High Roof.

When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather, not screaming like the passengers in his car..!
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