mk7 2.2 85-t260 multiple things wrong

[TheCake]

I recently bought a transit that had the pcm and eml light on guy i bought it off said they'd been on for ages, took it to garage to spend £600 to get it through the mot oh what fun, engine soon after became lumpy on idle discovered a small fuel leak from prv turns out previous owner had wrapped ptfe tape round it took it to garage to get some advice told me i'd need a new fuel rail. decided to investigate myself expecting to struggle to remove valve but came straight off so cleaned the ptfe tape changed prv and copper washer wanged it right up no more leaks, about a week later lumpy again with occasional stalling at lights, checked forums looks likely to be egr so took it off and cleaned it drove lovely for another week then lumpy idle again with frequent stalling even when dropping gear at low speeds.

Got an obdlink ex plugged into laptop with forscan got lots of fun codes fixed a few but the following are persistent; p0089:7a-2f fuel pressure regulator performance, cant do a pump learn as fuel rail pressure wont go below 40000 kpa at idle not sure why.

p167b:41-2f fuel injector learning not done, not attempted yet as not been able to do pump learn.

p068a:00-28 power relay de-energized to early, probable culprit faulty alternator as if i dont go above 3000rpm it wont cut in and charge the battery which led to a fun drive home in the dark with lights failing.
p0623:00-28 generator lamp control circuit, bad alternator.

p268b:00-28 high pressure fuel pump calibration not learned/programmed, unable to do as fuel rail pressure too high.
b1318 battery voltage level too low, again bad alternator not charging battery coupled with lumpy idle and stalling.

what ive done so far: changed water pump(the small one)bled the system through and replaced with coolant (the guy never did any routine maintenance), cleaned egr, changed prv and scv, cleaned the map housing (not sure what its called ended up having to drill new bolt holes as the bolt heads sheered off when removing to access alternator) and metal pipe leading to egr good thing too as only had a 5mm diameter hole where it was packed with carbon deposits, cleaned multiple contacts that looked dirty had to cable tie some on as the clips were broken.
put it all back together except air filter box ran it successfully put on filter box then van choked to death took many tries turning over to get it to start finally started ran smooth but chucked out tonnes of black smoke on way home.

yet to do a full oil change and sump seal replacement as has a small leak also forscan is showing error instead of an oil pressure value could be linked to leak?.
get tracking checked as pulls to the left possibly problem with power steering as just after starting doesnt like to turn right seems as though pump doesn't engage.

transit mk7 2.2 duratorq 85-t260, fwd, single battery, 60plate
any help would be greatly appreciated

[knobby1]

Were the "Learns" done after replacing the SCV & PRV, if not it will never run properly. Idle rail pressure should be 230 bar +/- 10%.

Power steering issue is probably the rack not well....the PAS pumps rarely give throuble. Check the little filter gauze in the bottom of the reservoir as they block up with crud and the pumps can starve of fluid.

Lord Knobrot

[TheCake]

Hi knobby
Tried to do the learns but ran into multiple issues first was complete loss of power as alternator wouldn't kick in and second rail pressure being too high to do the learns
Expected pressure was about 23000 but actual fluctuated between 40000 and 60000 which is what I can't figure out.

[TheCake]

UPDATE
Im an idiot

not very savvy with mechanical stuff this van being the first ive had a proper go at the item i bought ages ago that was sold as an scv was actually just the rail pressure sensor, will be putting original back in at weekend when my denso scv and prv arrive and fit them and hopefully do the learns then next find out whats wrong with alternator and fix oil sump seal and do an oil change.

will update on all stages with what i did to fix each issue.

[TheCake]

well today i installed the new scv and prv did the pump learn which went well she now drives smoothly and no lumps or surging and fuel economy seems to be better now but after several failed attempts to do the pilot correction learn i have a feeling my injectors may be on their way out as kept coming up with error 80 which popped up after stage 5 of second set of tests will have to investigate further when i get more time.

[KING OF ENGLAND]

The main thing is your getting through the problems and saving money
Doing it yourself

[TheCake]

update
took out injectors gave them a clean and removed smashed copper washers.
removed rocker cover, was a right pig as all the bolts were rusted to hell.
reamed injector seats and popped in new washers.
cleaned where rocker cover seals and fitted new cover.
popped cleaned injectors back in new stretch bolts, torque to 6nm + 180 degrees.
ran pilot injector learns, success!

no more lumpy idle, she gets up to speed quicker and runs smooth and a bit quieter with more a deep thrum which is nice.

changed fuel filter and housing, nuts were rusted so bad they sheered off, managed to get one nut on will need to drill and tap to get a proper fixing
though there is still air in fuel it doesnt seem to affect running.

changed cork seal on oil sump as old one leaked alot, new one still leaks a bit but just need to remember to nip up bolts every once in a while.

did a quick change of power steering fluid as it was almost black, will do a full change next time after reading a bit about it on this forum, as steering is still stiff on cold starts.

all in all though being a massive learning curve i reckon ive saved myself well over a grand fixing myself rather than taking her to a garage and it is a great feeling of accomplishment being able fix myself now, also very enjoyable.

[TheCake]

update on this thread most issues sorted and new ones found

power steering issue seems to be linked to alternator problem as no stiffness after revving could be both belts slipping as there was a fuel leak which may have contaminated belts though not had any issues with stiffness with the warmer weather

most of fuel issues sorted though there is still air getting in somewhere which is only noticeable on idle but will be tracing that when i get some free time.
all learns have been done though fuel pump learn was a bit tricky as only able to complete it with the air filter box disconnected.
had to replace egr valve as it stopped working but replacement also doesnt work so having to replace it again.
lots of rust and corrosion that needs seeing to.
and get the tracking done as she pulls to the left.

[marc1234567]

update on this thread most issues sorted and new ones found

power steering issue seems to be linked to alternator problem as no stiffness after revving could be both belts slipping as there was a fuel leak which may have contaminated belts though not had any issues with stiffness with the warmer weather

most of fuel issues sorted though there is still air getting in somewhere which is only noticeable on idle but will be tracing that when i get some free time.
all learns have been done though fuel pump learn was a bit tricky as only able to complete it with the air filter box disconnected.
had to replace egr valve as it stopped working but replacement also doesnt work so having to replace it again.
lots of rust and corrosion that needs seeing to.
and get the tracking done as she pulls to the left.

my egr doesn't seem to function . I think you noticed it in my post. I was wondering if it is due to someone deleting? as it is closed I think all the time. What is your egr doing?

[TheCake]

mine comes up with unable to reach command position as description for the related code (read on forscan)

[TheCake]

update at last.

finally had some time to have a look at the van.
changed ps belt and alternator belt upon inspecting old belts found the were starting to crack, checked the overrun pulley which is working as it should so that eliminates those as the cause, so either the alternator is on way out or a new regulator is needed. (checked wiring it looks fine but will have a closer inspection when i have time.

changed egr valve again, so far so good currently no dtc's showing so fingers crossed.

still need to get tracking sorted, is it something i could do myself? being very much a novice or is it better to have it done by a professional? located offending wheel o/s front leaning out as tread is very worn on edge.

still air in system but not really affecting running so not that important of an issue at this time.

and slowly tackling rust, whilst checking an earthing point managed to shear off bolt so had to fit a new one will be spraying some hammerite on the outer shell on sills and offending areas.

[knobby1]

update at last.
still need to get tracking sorted, is it something i could do myself? being very much a novice or is it better to have it done by a professional? located offending wheel o/s front leaning out as tread is very worn on edge.

Tracking is not something which can be done easily by a home mechanic, you need special equipment to check and align the wheels to within +/-1/4 degree etc...

Lord Knobrot

[TheCake]

update at last.
still need to get tracking sorted, is it something i could do myself? being very much a novice or is it better to have it done by a professional? located offending wheel o/s front leaning out as tread is very worn on edge.

Tracking is not something which can be done easily by a home mechanic, you need special equipment to check and align the wheels to within +/-1/4 degree etc...

Lord Knobrot

thought so, cheers knobby

[ned]

I’ve done my own tracking before, you can either use the string theory method or a straight board, if you search YouTube there are a few videos on how to do it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5TdqnrmA6AI


.

[knobby1]

update at last.
still need to get tracking sorted, is it something i could do myself? being very much a novice or is it better to have it done by a professional? located offending wheel o/s front leaning out as tread is very worn on edge.

Tracking is not something which can be done easily by a home mechanic, you need special equipment to check and align the wheels to within +/-1/4 degree etc...

Lord Knobrot

thought so, cheers knobby

As our Ned mentions, it can be done at home using his method...but the accuracy can be a bit questionable...but should get you reasonably close. There's heaps of you tube vids to show how it's done.

Lord Knobrot