Error codes after a chain replacement

[sauzee]

Hi guys it must be a coincidence but last week i put a new chain,guides,tensioner,cover and seal i had no codes only changed becase starting to rattle.When it was finished started van up sounded good but traction control,abs and all the digital display had dashes on it codes are
U1A04:29-2F Vehicle speed can signal
P2265:65-2F Water in fuel
P0623:00-2F Generator lamp control circuit
P068A:00-28 ECM/PCM power relay outage to early
C1A91:14-2B FL speed sensor
C1A92:14-2B RL speed sensor
U0121:00-08 Lost comms with ABS control module
U0401:86-2B Data recieved from ECM/PCM is Invalid
I can clear the codes but lights still on and codes return after ignition switched back on i have checked all fuses and relays cleaned most earths checked continuity on most of the loom to Abs module and wheel sensors
The van is 2008 2.2 FWD I have even bought a Digital Manual but no wiring diagram The Van has only been driven 1000 yards since then to see if moving it will clear anything but no the revs are also slow to return back down
Any Help Please

[sauzee]

I have found out that my son had started the van with the ABS relay was disconneted would that have caused any fault in the BCM i cleared all the codes but lights back on so i thought i would try taking it for a run i could not go far as didn't have enough power to pull the skin off a rice pudding.If i was to do an ecu kit change what else would be involved pump need coded or injectors and abs module i am going to change fuse box wiring to rule it out.I have access to key programmer and diagnostic tools
Thanks for any help

[andz327]

Sounds like usual broken wires or abs sensors, swap front sensors and see if fault stays at same side, if it does broken wire if it moves across its sensor
The front left sensor cable (see pic) are prone to chaffing and shorting out on chassis next to abs pump brake pipe area

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[sauzee]

Thanks for your reply I have checked the voltages at front and rear left sensors front has 2.5 volts and rear has none right front and rear show battery voltage so it maybe broken wire or a failed module as other members have had faults with
Thanks

[sauzee]

Changed the fuse board today and alternator only code that i got rid of was the generator signal.So same faults rules out connectors on fuse board .As i asked before do you think my son may have spiked the bcm with starting the van with the ABS regulator disconnected
Thanks

[andz327]

No have you tried swaping over front abs sensors to see if fault goes to other side

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[sauzee]

Thanks for your reply i will change over in morning and let you know
Thanks

[sauzee]

I swaped sensors fault still on the same side Do any of you guys know where i can get a wiring diagrami bought the Haynes manual but no wiring i also bought an online manual but no wiring either
So if anyone has or knows where i can purchase the wiring diagram
Thanks

[knobby1]

I swaped sensors fault still on the same side Do any of you guys know where i can get a wiring diagrami bought the Haynes manual but no wiring i also bought an online manual but no wiring either
So if anyone has or knows where i can purchase the wiring diagram Thanks

Most of the non Ford manuals are just generic Transit ones, especially the Haynes manual...there's so many variants of the transits.... and covering all of the variants would be quite a task and the manuals would be huge.

I find the BEMM to be quite useful for wiring etc... It's to be found on the Ford ETIS website...but you need to be registered to download now I think.

Lord Knobrot

[sauzee]

I swaped sensors fault still on the same side Do any of you guys know where i can get a wiring diagrami bought the Haynes manual but no wiring i also bought an online manual but no wiring either
So if anyone has or knows where i can purchase the wiring diagram Thanks

Most of the non Ford manuals are just generic Transit ones, especially the Haynes manual...there's so many variants of the transits.... and covering all of the variants would be quite a task and the manuals would be huge.

I find the BEMM to be quite useful for wiring etc... It's to be found on the Ford ETIS website...but you need to be registered to download now I think.

Lord Knobrot

Thanks i looked on their site but wont even let you look without registering.Today i went back to the start and removed the chain cover to check timing marks which i think may have not had both cams synced as one of the pins would not lock in without slacking of the bolts on a cam so i will rebuild it tomorrow and see how it runs hopefully stop revs sticking and limp mode

[knobby1]

I swaped sensors fault still on the same side Do any of you guys know where i can get a wiring diagrami bought the Haynes manual but no wiring i also bought an online manual but no wiring either
So if anyone has or knows where i can purchase the wiring diagram Thanks

Most of the non Ford manuals are just generic Transit ones, especially the Haynes manual...there's so many variants of the transits.... and covering all of the variants would be quite a task and the manuals would be huge.

I find the BEMM to be quite useful for wiring etc... It's to be found on the Ford ETIS website...but you need to be registered to download now I think.

Lord Knobrot

Thanks i looked on their site but wont even let you look without registering.Today i went back to the start and removed the chain cover to check timing marks which i think may have not had both cams synced as one of the pins would not lock in without slacking of the bolts on a cam so i will rebuild it tomorrow and see how it runs hopefully stop revs sticking and limp mode

If the "inlet" cam timing was out...it wouldn't even start, so the exhaust cam may be out.. Mk7's need inlet cam/crank sync to start so the inlet cam timing must be ok or very close to ok for it to start, best to check the exhaust cam is also timed properly, just one tooth out will have it running poorly....

Lord Knobrot

[sauzee]

Lord Knobrot[/quote]
Thanks i looked on their site but wont even let you look without registering.Today i went back to the start and removed the chain cover to check timing marks which i think may have not had both cams synced as one of the pins would not lock in without slacking of the bolts on a cam so i will rebuild it tomorrow and see how it runs hopefully stop revs sticking and limp mode[/quote]

If the "inlet" cam timing was out...it wouldn't even start, so the exhaust cam may be out.. Mk7's need inlet cam/crank sync to start so the inlet cam timing must be ok or very close to ok for it to start, best to check the exhaust cam is also timed properly, just one tooth out will have it running poorly....

Lord Knobrot[/quote]
Hi lord Knobrot i am now confused when i lock the crank in the box the cams dont line up and the front crankshaft locking tool wont line up but when i line up the cams the front shaft tool fits perfect but not the rear crank pin
Two cant be right and one wrong i have turned the engine by hand 3 or 4 times and no locking up holding the pin down while turning by hand it locks about 180 degrees out from where the front pin on the crank can take the 8mm bolt to lock the plate.My son was the one who removed it i only checked the front markings he went under to put the pin in but he must have not locked it.But the chain was only removed after it was all locked and replaced on same markings.It was starting and running fine apart from no power but engine was quiet
Any help what is wrong
Thanks

[1888]

Probably useless info but i just did my Mk6 chain. The chain was a tooth out at the pump and the slack before putting the tensioner in i mistakenly had it on the right where it was to be the left where the tensioner is. This was enough to make it not start. Took it back out and did it right 2nd time and it fired up straight away

[sauzee]

Thanks 1888 i dont have fuel pump on the timing but i took out no1 injector with the pin locked at sensor and a long screwdriver in the hole it was about 50 degrees took out pin turning anti clockwise till cams lined up and front crank tool in rotated tdc then down about 50 degrees and so marks must be right just a fault so only thing i can think of is flywheel changed and that is what is 180 degrees out so will finish putting together tomorrow and see how many fault codes
Thanks

[knobby1]

Thanks 1888 i dont have fuel pump on the timing but i took out no1 injector with the pin locked at sensor and a long screwdriver in the hole it was about 50 degrees took out pin turning anti clockwise till cams lined up and front crank tool in rotated tdc then down about 50 degrees and so marks must be right just a fault so only thing i can think of is flywheel changed and that is what is 180 degrees out so will finish putting together tomorrow and see how many fault codes Thanks

Flywheel cannot be 180 degrees out, they only bolt on in one position....and it would never start anyway if it was 180 out,(again, they need cam/crank sync to start). The flywheel has it's timing pin hole at 50 degrees before TDC, The allen bolt in the front of the crankshaft will be at the 10-11 o'clock position, once locked in position, the cams chould be lined up with thier pins/marks, it's either right or it's not.

Lord Knobrot