The dreaded mk7 problems

[BigdaveIV]

Good morning all sorry if I am posting in the wrong place but firstly can I say what a great site I have used it as a kinda Haynes manual for a couple of years now but always manged to sort my problems so never joined my bad

Right here goes, I brought a mk7 transit mini bus about a month ago, its a 2010 2.2 tdci mwb semi high top, I got it cheap as it needed an alternator,

So changed that and it fired into life ran great for a couple of days then It became apparent that she did not like starting when warm it would take 2 or 3 turns of the key then she would start and drive beautiful....so I turned to trusty transit forum and people where suggesting ignition switch or ckp amongst other things but they where the cheapest so I changed them with no effect I also thought it could be a feul filter problem so gave her a service got her to start and ran her for a while to clear any air in the system but still no effect

Over the last week it has got gradually worse taking more and more turns of the key until finally yesterday I jump in her to go to work and she didn't want to know at all and know the battery I'd flat

So now I am completely puzzled because when she starts she runs beautiful not missing a beat even drove her from colchester (essex) to Airdrie (Scotland) a couple of weeks ago

So that's the back ground on the van now my question is.........does any of my fellow transit lovers in or around the colchester or clacton-on-sea areas have the ids programme that may be able to come and plug it in for me i would willing to pay and can supply as much tea/ coffee as he or she can drink. As I have read many posts on here and it all seems to boil back to needing the ids

Thanks guy and gals and sorry for the long post

[knobby1]

Welcome to the nut house.

Regarding IDS, it's expensive and not real user friendly. We find Forscan much more user friendly and cheaper to setup.

Forscan is free to download onto a windoze laptop....and the modified ELM-327 is less than 20 quid. Getting the codes read is a good place to start diagnosis. Maybe it's just me, but the FWD's seem to be more troublesome for some strange reason....very subjective though.

The SCV and PRV are the most common causes of poor starting and poor running issues, hunting idle etc. The EGR valve is also a major pain in every transit owner's backside.

The starter motor can be another cause of poor starting when warm, they fill with carbon and clutch dust and draw too much current/voltage when warm and leave precious little for the PCM to run the injection system, often a good cleanout, new brushes and commutator skim will sort them...or just replace it.

Lord Knobrot

[bortaf]

Have you checked the air filter ?

[BigdaveIV]

Hi thanks for the responses guys I am in the process of charging the batteries at the moment

Bortaf: I have changed the air filter when I done the service and I checked the air box for holes etc

Knobby1 I have ordered a Bluetooth eml327 and was going to try and use it with the Forscan lite app on android but I didn't realise the eml327 had to be modified so a potential problem there but I'll give it a go when it arrives

I have changed the prv and I have a new scv but read on here that if I change the scv I will have to do a pump learn on the ids

I didn't think it could be the starter as it seemed to work OK but I will whip it off and give it a clean and the same with egr

Any other insight any one can give would be greatly received
Thanks again guys

[knobby1]

Hi thanks for the responses guys I am in the process of charging the batteries at the moment

Bortaf: I have changed the air filter when I done the service and I checked the air box for holes etc

Knobby1 I have ordered a Bluetooth eml327 and was going to try and use it with the Forscan lite app on android but I didn't realise the eml327 had to be modified so a potential problem there but I'll give it a go when it arrives

I have changed the prv and I have a new scv but read on here that if I change the scv I will have to do a pump learn on the ids

I didn't think it could be the starter as it seemed to work OK but I will whip it off and give it a clean and the same with egr

Any other insight any one can give would be greatly received
Thanks again guys

Best off not using a bluetooth unit, they can tend to drop out if there are a lot of stray frequencies floating about....plus, you won't get full functionality of Forscan unless you use the proper full windows version and a wired USB modified ELM-327. Some of the module programming functions will be disabled...the learns being one of them l believe.

Pump, pilot and injector learns should be done after changing SCV and PRV or it will never run properly. The valves should be genuine Ford or Denso items as non-genuine valves rarely pass the learns due to poor quality.

Lord Knobrot

[BigdaveIV]

Thankyou knobby I have ordered a modified eml327 which comes tomorrow and I have dug out the laptop
And will set to the egr and starter motor

[BigdaveIV]

Hi guys after a couple of days of plugging in and trying diffrent things I thought I would give you an up date and ask further advice,

I got forscan plugged into the van and found some old codes where stored which where related to the alternator and the imoberliser etc....

So I cleared them and re run the dtc which trew up a code for pump learn and abs, I managed to complete a pump learn successfully after getting the van to start with a spray of deodorant ( no brake cleaner or easy start in my arsenal)
And for good measure I done an injector pilot learn Which kept failing at stage 5 on either the first set of 3 or the last set of 3 but always on stage 5 and after a while even that was successful.

So now I have no codes and done both the larns and now it seems the van will start when cold but not when hot so once again I am puzzled..

I have done a live data run on the scv, cylinder contribution/balance at 2000rpm and injection demand which has told me the

Scv 44.46%

Cylinder 1= 0.502 mg
Cylinder2= - 0.841 mg
Cylinder3= - 0.342 mg
Cylinder4= 0.663 mg

Injection demand timing= -0.75°

I am not sure what these readings mean but after reading a few posts around the net, if I had to guess I would say injector 2+3 need replacing if not all of them however i have a leak off kit coming today which i am hoping will tell me for sure, but in mean time if anyone could shed some light on this that would be great

Thanks again and sorry for the long post again

[knobby1]

Those injector numbers are good...corrections under +/- 1.000 are ok.

Poor starting when hot is often caused by the starter or a poorly EGR.

Lord Knobrot

[Jim Archer]

Pull the crank sensor - bell housing, 1 O'clock position looking forward - out and check for swarf. They build a inherent magnetism in use that attracts swarf from the clutch centre bearing.

Check it when hot as the field dies away over time when not energised.

Jim