Mk7 poor starter.

[MinorMatt]

I have a new ign switch on the way already...

I really am having to do a parts cannon on this.

A new crank sensor hasn't helped.

With the new glowies its so close to starting.... its still crank for ages, will run half a second and then cut out. I'm going to play silly arses tomorrow and put and electric pump inline with the fuel feed to the filter tomorrow - but I doubt it will help at all.

Getting right pissed off with it

[knobby1]

I have a new ign switch on the way already...

I really am having to do a parts cannon on this.

A new crank sensor hasn't helped.

With the new glowies its so close to starting.... its still crank for ages, will run half a second and then cut out. I'm going to play silly arses tomorrow and put and electric pump inline with the fuel feed to the filter tomorrow - but I doubt it will help at all.

Getting right pissed off with it

What fuel rail pressure are you getting during cranking..??

Lord Knobrot

[MinorMatt]

I have a new ign switch on the way already...

I really am having to do a parts cannon on this.

A new crank sensor hasn't helped.

With the new glowies its so close to starting.... its still crank for ages, will run half a second and then cut out. I'm going to play silly arses tomorrow and put and electric pump inline with the fuel feed to the filter tomorrow - but I doubt it will help at all.

Getting right pissed off with it

What fuel rail pressure are you getting during cranking..??

Lord Knobrot

I can't remember the numbers - but its in the normal range. Has been the whole time

[ned]

I do feel for you, it’s not helping not knowing what the previous owner messed with, it might be something really simple that you just can’t see

[tranmx2]

MK7 '56 plate 2.4 100PS RWD. I think 56 is 2007.
On ebay HP pump for 2007 Transit has Denso on the label.
https://www.slideshare.net/hd78/denso-hp3-servis-manual
There is info re' Denso fuel systems with nice drawings. Can scroll down without having to download.
A similar pump to the one on ebay has SCV which re' other posts causes problems.

Contaminated fuel has been suggested in one post. Could rig up marked clear bottle/tube to inlet of HP pp - check level in bottle drops - if engine runs okay then problem likely to be before HP pump.
Intemittent fault is difficult to find. 2007 could be a bad earth. Could be a cracked solder joint in a relay that supplies power to the eng run electrics. Any poor electric connection/wire.

[MinorMatt]

So

Igniton switch had absolutely no affect - so the new one has gone back in the box and back on the shelf.

Now, I put an electric pump in the supply line. It still didn't want to start - but it appeared to be pulling in air at the pump (no air in pipe to the pump, lots on the outlet) and it still didn't want to start (probably due to the air). However the interfave between the filter and houaing was dripping - so its reasonable to assume that the new fuel filter housing is faulty.

New (2nd hand) one om the way

[MinorMatt]

Today I took a filter and housing off a van that works and put it on this one... and....

Yes....

You guessed it...

No bloody difference.

The other van started quite happily with the other filter in place too.

I'm vaguely wondering if the starter motor is a bit cooked now, I think its spinning fasr enough - but maybe its pulling toi much power and screwing something up?

[MinorMatt]

BTW anyone with a rotton 2.4 want to buy a van with a reasonable shell and an engine that won't start? Im getting pissed off with it now!

[MinorMatt]

Hmmm

Rail pressure on this gets to about 35,000 (whatever units) it coughs and the pressure drops right off.

The one next to it starts at about 50,000.

I've swapped filters and housings between them and the problem stays with the van.

With clear pipes you can see its not pulling up air, or pushing it out of the return.

Any thoughts?

Mine is tgat the pump is struggling to build pressure at slow speed so may be knackered. Especially if matey before was running it dry trying to get it going?

[MinorMatt]

A lad at the workshop loaned me his rail pressure gauge jobby - which has some blanks


Despite passing the leak off and learns it appears injector 1 was a bit dodgy. Blanking it on the rail gave good pressure.

I have put a PF Jones injector in it and I know have really good rail pressure... but its taking a little but to build it up and its still coughing and spluttering and not going.

With a bit of squirt it fired up okayish and its now sat running. I need to code the new injector and do learns etc. Hopefully running it for a bit will purge any air and I will be able to programme the injector in and do the learns and it should be ok???

[knobby1]

A lad at the workshop loaned me his rail pressure gauge jobby - which has some blanks


Despite passing the leak off and learns it appears injector 1 was a bit dodgy. Blanking it on the rail gave good pressure.

I have put a PF Jones injector in it and I know have really good rail pressure... but its taking a little but to build it up and its still coughing and spluttering and not going.

With a bit of squirt it fired up okayish and its now sat running. I need to code the new injector and do learns etc. Hopefully running it for a bit will purge any air and I will be able to programme the injector in and do the learns and it should be ok???

Sounds like you're finally getting it sorted mate..!

Lord Knobrot

[MinorMatt]

I didn't have my laptop with me - so I was using forscan lite on my mobile.... so couldn't programme the new injector in.

So it failed the learns.

I scrounged the kit from the guy in the unit next door and programmed it in... and yup it failed again!

I forget to get the numbers, but the cylinder balances are now all over the place (they were +-2 before).

injector 4 is showing +10 to +15.

So I have said sod it and bought 2 more injectors. I may regret it - but they are 2nd hand recons with the codes - apparently only done a couple of 100 miles. The inlet manifold is also off at the moment which may account for some of it.

Will feed back when they are in and coded, and I have had a chance to try and start again from cold. I left it 10 minutes when hot and it fired straight up - which is an improvement.

What I forget to say is that before I swapped the injector I also swapped the rail. The van currently has a different SCV and PRV (both used) from when the learns were last completed - should I put the originals back (known to be ok) or hope for the best with the "new" ones?

[ned]

As you already have the known working scv & prv I’d put them in, you don’t have anything to lose, I believe non genuine ford/denso ones are a bit flaky.

[MinorMatt]

b*stard thing!!!!

[metalworker0]

b*stard thing!!!!

That's an understatement -- i would be sick to the stomach by now, if i had your trouble .. beginning of November you started this thread ...i feel for you Matt

all the best.mark