stuck rear bolt frons suspension arm

[Stevelien]

Because of the mounting of the new chain I had everything easily accessible I thought to start today with replacing the right front wishbone. As expected the rear bolt is stuck. I have, as can be seen in the picture, ground out the wishbone as well as the rubber. However I still can't get the bolt loose with 580 NM (427 lbft) torque power. A midsize breaker bar doesn't work either. What is the best next step: heat on the inner sleeve of the rubber casing where the bolt is in, or try to carefully grind out this inner sleeve because it also causes friction. Or is it only the rusty bolt at the top in the length frame member that prevents the bolt from coming loose? Suggestions please! The new bolt is available ready to be fit with the new crossmember. Heat, longer braker bar or higher power torque machine?

Update; I have ordered a 1600 NM (1180 lbft) lectrical Makita torque machine now. Let see what happens tomorow.

[T350camper]

I've not done this job on a Transit...but. What tends to happen is that a relatively modest amount of rust forms between the shank of the bolt and the sleeve it runs through. The resulting expansion seizes it solid. Using additional torque is likely to snap the bolt head off eventually and still leave you in the same position. Assuming that the wishbone is now scrap and you are replacing everything, I would be tempted to grind a slot down the sleeve (inner sleeve from the wishbone bush) and then use a chisel to continue the cut as much as possible to relieve the interference fit. Maybe then you will be able to turn the bolt.

Obviously take care not to damage the subframe.

[andz327]

Heat the sleave until its glowing and it'll slacken off

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[Stevelien]

I finally got the bolt loose. It turned out that it was stuck in the inner metal bush holder as mentioned by mr. T350camper. I grind this holder lightly and knocked it loose from the inner bolt. Indeed it is not the nut that won't loosen but this inner metal rubber holder that is stuck with the bolt. It takes 4 hours to get this done… Now saturday the left side. Thanks to T350 camper from Dutch T260 camper.

[gt_addict]

Glad to hear you got it out. I’ve got to change my drivers side at some point soon. Currently spending this week giving it loads of Plusgas penetrating oil to try and give me the best chance. I’m worries the nut in the chassis leg will give up

[T350camper]

Glad it worked out for you T260 Camper

[Stevelien]

Postscript and tip: for the left side I used the higher torque electric tool that I had ordered. And yes, the bolt came loose after 2 seconds, briefly taking the inner sleeve with it (indicated by the bottom support plate that encloses it moving apart by a few centimeters). But after a short reversal of the direction of rotation and back again, the bolt came out smoothly. So, better tools with a bit more torque can save you 3.5 hours of work! The maximum Makita reversing tool power was 1600 NM (1180 ft lbf for drivers with the steering on the wrong side) in reverse.

[T350camper]

Good to know

[gt_addict]

Thanks for the info Stevelien. I have the Makita DTW700 so hoping that and the fact they were only fitted a few years ago and being soaked in penetrating oil for days will go in my favour. Fingers crossed.

[gt_addict]

Managed to change my lower arm this morning. Thankfully it came out ok. But of a faff getting the new one in and located. Now just got to get the tracking checked this afternoon

[Stevelien]

I'm glad it worked out for you.
Indeed do the wheel alignment or at least the toe out. There are no values ​​known in Haynes but front wheel drive vehicles have small toe out degrees. I have set 0.6 mm (0.15 degrees) toe out from hub on outside 16 inch rim both sides. With straight aluminum strips and measuring tape measured on front tires where I turned them a few times in relation to each other for verification. That worked fine. Camber is in principle not adjustable with Mk6.

[knobby1]

I'm glad it worked out for you.
Indeed do the wheel alignment or at least the toe out. There are no values ​​known in Haynes but front wheel drive vehicles have small toe out degrees. I have set 0.6 mm (0.15 degrees) toe out from hub on outside 16 inch rim both sides. With straight aluminum strips and measuring tape measured on front tires where I turned them a few times in relation to each other for verification. That worked fine. Camber is in principle not adjustable with Mk6.

Only toe out/in is adjustable on the Mk6/7 transits...there is no camber or caster adjustment available.

Lord Knobrot