Help North Wales

[mr_miyagi]

Hi Guys,

I have a 2012 2.2 140 sport and I'm having trouble with it running rough and being noisy, diesel knock I'm thinking. I was told by a so called specialist that someone had removed the DPF and done a re-map and it had been over fuelling and now it's got a cracked piston, so it's a new engine job. Couldn't pay for that so stripped it myself as I used to work as a mechanic many years ago. The only crack I could find is the one in my big fat arse.

Rebuilt it with new pistons, oil pump and gaskets. Chain had already been done. Had the injectors tested and apparently they were quite bad so fitted a new set. In hindsight I should've done that first but there you go. Put a DPF on as you could see where the old one had been welded up so would probably fail the MOT. Fitted a new fuel filter as the old one was black and full of sediment. Got told it was probably diesel bug. Took it to an injection specialist who put it back on the standard 140 map and set it to learn the injectors but left the EGR deleted.

When I picked it up it was running better but not fully ok and it was still quite noisy. The guy said it sounds like a piece of the sound deadening has dropped off so take a look. Nothing wrong there. Ran it for a couple of weeks then got a red info light and "Engine Malfunction" message. The following day that had gone and two days later the orange engine light came on. The traction control light is permanently on, as is the "Service oil now" message. The brake warning light comes on for a few days then goes off for a few days, and It's lost the hill start assist.

After watching loads of videos on YouTube over the weekend I took the wire off the MAF while it was running and had no change. So I've just fitted a new MAF and it's not made the slightest bit of difference, carries on running when I pull the wire off and the light's still on.

I've lost confidence in going to local garages as they all seem more interested in bending me over and shafting me on price instead taking an interest in actually fixing the real problem. I don't think they're listening to me when I tell them about it.

Is there anyone in the North Wales, Deeside area that can genuinly help and knows what they're doing before I put a match to it.

[metalworker0]

You'll have to get a scanner or you're going nowhere .

Forscan - that's what they recommend here .

NOTE: you can use forscan to get correct fault codes with proper explanation of them - a generic fault code reader may be somewhat misleading

"Forscan" is FREE software that you download to a laptop..you buy the interface cable -- this is just the cable you need a laptop)
You can join the forscan forum ..again free, to get the software and more answers.

https://forscan.org/forum/

Without - you are lost ..must be done this way .

Then you come here list the fault codes here ..and we will work on solving the problem

The traction control , hill start assist are grouped together and are brake problems, are usually down to An ABS sensor fault. wrong tyres fitted (they all have to be the same), underinflated tyres, most brake related fault codes are usually down to the abs sensors or reluctor rings... they give the speed of the wheels so lots of other stuff dependent on speed readings from the ABS system

wondering if the MAP reconfigure has got rid of the EGR delete

in which case you'll need to dismantle EGR and check its clean and working .

likewise was the DPF deleted ..now you have a supposedly good dpf ..all systems related to it must be good ...

All the best.mark

[mr_miyagi]

Thanks for the reply.

I read an old post on here that you can get a Forscan app for an android phone, I don't have a laptop so that would be a costly way to do it. Does anyone use Forscan on their phone, any good?

The tyres are all the same size and pressures but different makes front and back.

The DPF and EGR were originally deleted and a re-map done by a previous owner. Now it's been put back to standard 140 with the DPF switched on, a new pipe fitted and the EGR is deleted.

The problem I'm having is still the same as before I started all the work, everything I've done and the people I've taken it to who've told me what's wrong hasn't changed anything only fixed a slight missfire. The two guys that have looked at it and advised have fault code scanners but I'm a bit reluctant to go back to them.

Now this is strange, when it first started with this noise and missfire there were no engine lights or messages showing.

Do the PCMs ever give problems on these?

[knobby1]

Thanks for the reply.

I read an old post on here that you can get a Forscan app for an android phone, I don't have a laptop so that would be a costly way to do it. Does anyone use Forscan on their phone, any good?

The Forscan Android/iOS apps have greatly reduced functionality compared to the full Windows version....and they're not free.

Blindly disconnecting things and hoping it fixes your issues is pointless...a proper diagnosis is the only real way to get these horrible Euro-5's sorted. Many "apparent" faults are cased by other things. Many issues are often electrical or poorly earth related.

https://forscan.org/download.html

Lord Knobrot

[mr_miyagi]

I've got a bit further on with this. I managed to find a local garage where the lads were really decent. Had a word and they plugged their diagnostic in. It's showing a fault on the exhaust gas temperature sensor. I'm sure he said the first bank. Whilst I didn't get a code number at least I've got a start point. I should imagine this will be why the engine light is coming on.

On the exhaust there are two sensors, one just in front of the cat and one between the cat and the dpf.

There's another thing further up the pipe which I'm guessing is a fuel injector. Right at the top of the pipe there's a thread which is plugged up.

If I put a test meter on the wires in the plug with the ignition on what voltage should it show?

[metalworker0]

If I put a test meter on the wires in the plug with the ignition on what voltage should it show?

whats this you're testing ? above

The temperature sensors (thermocouples) make their own voltage .

This i posted the other day ..found info on another car site - sorry do your own conversions to centigrade as the answers in Fahrenheit

First check continuity between the two wires of the thermocouple. If you have continuity it's probably fine. Usually they are either good or bad, but in rare cases they can be compromised by corrosion or something. To check if it's accurate you'll need a voltage meter than can read millivolts. Put the leads on each wire of the thermocouple. At 32*F the voltage across them will be zero. As temp increases the voltage goes up. 70*F will be .843 and 1000*F will be 22.251.

full chart for different temperatures... like a bus timetable for a whole county!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/atta ... download=1

all the best.mark

[tranmx2]

I've got a bit further on with this. I managed to find a local garage where the lads were really decent. Had a word and they plugged their diagnostic in. It's showing a fault on the exhaust gas temperature sensor. I'm sure he said the first bank. Whilst I didn't get a code number at least I've got a start point. I should imagine this will be why the engine light is coming on.

On the exhaust there are two sensors, one just in front of the cat and one between the cat and the dpf.

There's another thing further up the pipe which I'm guessing is a fuel injector. Right at the top of the pipe there's a thread which is plugged up.

If I put a test meter on the wires in the plug with the ignition on what voltage should it show?

Watch ORiley DPF on youtube he has lots of vids with many for Transits.
S Y Diagnostics https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=i1LOQIcmP68

It seems the Sport is different than the 350 Transit.
The vapouriser is incorrectly refered to as an injector as is the heater which is referred to as a glow plug.
Exhaust and inlet system dwg of the 2012 350 Transit.

Ex syst dwg - Copy.png

Vapouriser and heater.

vapouriser fuel pipe off.JPG

If I put a test meter on the wires in the plug with the ignition on what voltage should it show?
If you refer to the heater - for V to show it'll need to be activated - it may be activated when the differential pressure in the DPF indicates a need for it to be activated.
An ohm test is shown in the SY Diagostics vid.

I'm sure he said the first bank. some engines have 2 banks such as the V6 engine. It seems usual that when bank 1 is used it refers to an inline engine.

On the exhaust there are two sensors, one just in front of the cat and one between the cat and the dpf.
The above does not describe that which is on the 350 Transit - maybe the Sport is different.