Exhaust replacement

[Jeanclaudedamnvan]

Hi, has anyone replaced their whole exhaust system on the MK7 Transit TDCi? I have a 280/100 2013 FWD which needs the front pipe (includes the DPF/Cat) and the rear silencer replaced. The rear section is very easy given there are no sensors fitted to it unlike the front part which has 4 and the two DPF pipes. For simplicity sake I will just replace all of the sensors in case some shear off during extraction but there appears to be VERY little space to fit the new system so does anyone have tips for doing this please? Also, does the old DPF have residual value - some sellers of the new systems want the old part returned to them, even Ford ask for this so can I sell it to the scrappy? Any thoughts please?

Thank you

[andz327]

Why are you replacing the down pipe ?? Some replacement parts unless genuine dont work as they should ànd you end up with better dpf readings etc with the old genuine part

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[Jeanclaudedamnvan]

The section to the rear of the DPF is incredibly rusty and bout to split hence I would rather sort it before it finally gives up, the new one appears to be stainless.

[knobby1]

The section to the rear of the DPF is incredibly rusty and bout to split hence I would rather sort it before it finally gives up, the new one appears to be stainless.

Won't be stainless unless it was an "extortionate" amount of money. Don't know of any stainless Transit "off the shelf" exhausts tbh.

Lord Knobrot

[Jeanclaudedamnvan]

Exhaust replacement – my MK7 2013 280/100 TDCi FWD 100,000 miles.

As with most tasks we tackle on the van planning is key, as this is true of the exhaust swap.

I usually take the approach of buying all parts that I think I will need and some that I may (or may not) require. Reading the Haynes manual is of little help here, Haynes are obsessed with removing the battery for any task including this one!

One area Haynes is usually deficient is in alerting you to which tools are required. In this case a deep 14mm socket or a rivet gun.

So parts required;

Full exhaust system, the two parts are the front section which includes the DPF/Cat, a clamp to join the two, 5 rubber mounts 4 are two hole and one is 3 hole and some exhaust sealant for the joint between the two sections. The new front section should come with a gasket which fits between the turbo and the exhaust, if not you need one (it has 3 holes and gets crushed to seal).

Tools required;

There are really only 3 bolts and nuts that holding on the exhaust system, these are 14mm and are at the turbo. You require a 14mm deep socket for these.

The vapour valve requires a 22mm open ended spanner – various lengths are handy because space is very limited. Or, a short adjustable spanner capable of a 22mm opening. You can remove this once the exhaust is off assuming you have disconnected the wiring and fuel pipe.

10mm sockets and spanners to remove the front heat shield. A rivet gun to replace the drilled out rivet.

Washing up liquid to aid the installation of the rubber mounts (not grease as the liquid will wash off in time).

Tips;

Buy all new sensors, there are 4 in total. One vapour and 3 others – with blue, green and black leads on them. The connectors are different which makes it easier to reconnect but I found it easier to label these before you remove them from the loom. The vapour sensor has an electrical and fuel connections. To get to the fuel connection the heat shield should be removed. In fact to get the exhaust out, the heat shield MUST to be removed.

Cut off the old rear section first and get that out of the way. I used a grinder with a 1mm thin metal cutting disc and a hacksaw to finish it off. Once that is dealt with remove the heat shield there are 3 10mm bolts and one rivet (needs to be drilled out) and two nuts holding the front of it, a 10mm socket/spanner is required. To slide the shield off you need to remove the rubber mounts at the rear of the main exhaust section so that means you will need to support the weight, I used a block of wood on the subframe, a piece approx 100mm or 120mm thick did the trick.

On mine two the 4 sensors were seized in place and so I just disconnected them from the loom and left them in the exhaust for removal later (or not at all). These require different size open end spanners and I usually use long spanners with some extra leverage on the end such as a short piece of scaffold tube!

The removal of the 3 nuts holding the exhaust onto the turbo can be done with a mix of from above or below. The Haynes manual states removing the air box etc to get to the nuts from above, I found a combination of from above and below worked just fine but is time consuming.

When you come to install the new exhaust, put the vapour sensor in most of the way and then before you hook it onto the 3 turbo bolts, connect the fuel pipe. The heat shield is fitted after the exhaust is in place loosely. New nuts are usually supplied with the new exhaust but check this.

The rubber mounts can be tough to get on (I cut the old ones off with a blade) but if you use the washing up liquid to ease the installation and I also use a blunt screwdriver to lever them onto the mounting and the exhaust. With the three hole rubber mount it is best that the rubber is installed with the metal hanger off the van (it's off anyway as you have to remove it to get the heat shield off).

The new exhaust with the DPF/Cat did not have a heat shield welded onto it but I doubt this will be a problem. I can always cut the old one off and then use U clamps to secure it.

The whole task too me approx 6 hours but of course there was 3 or so hours spent prior to this looking up the parts and ordering and checking them.

It remains to be seen if the old DPF/Cat is worth anything in scrap.

[Jeanclaudedamnvan]

According to the scrappy, the old genuine Ford cat/dpf is not worth anything so it's good news and bad news;

the good news is that they are not worth stealing which will hopefully deter those undesirables cutting one off your pride and joy

the bad news is we don't get anything back for the part when changed

He went on to say that many of the newer cats being used on more modern cars are virtually worthless because the manufacturers are using much cheaper materials in them.