Break lights permanently on

[KSProperties]

Hello forum. Hope you are all well

Got an issue with my van. The break lights have become permanently on.
Regardless of if I'm breaking or not. And doesn't change if I put my lights on or not

Am I right in assuming I could just replace the break switch above the pedal or is this likely to be something more involved?
Any ideas be appreciated.

Thanks

Transit mwb Mk7 2.2 2013

[metalworker0]

put your foot under the pedal if it moves back and the lights go out your master cylinder or booster is sticking, pedal stiff in pedal box or the switch needs adjustment or is bust.

all the best.mark

[knobby1]

Am I right in assuming I could just replace the break switch above the pedal or is this likely to be something more involved?
Any ideas be appreciated. Thanks Transit mwb Mk7 2.2 2013

That would be "brake" switch...not "break"....unless it is indeed broken.

Pull the wires from the brake switch, if the lights go out, you've found your problem.

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

[KSProperties]

Hi I have unplugged the brake light switch and the are lights still on. So not sure where to go from here?

[trnx]

Remove both rear clusters - look for corrosion on the metal strips, inside the connector, on the blades of the metal strips.
Check the correct type of lamps have been fitted.
There is a post on the forum with images re' corrosion of rear clusters.

Have any screws been put into the body?
Could be insulation removed due to vibration/heat.
Contraction due to cold, water ingress.
A fault could be within the harness from the front to the back of the van.

[KSProperties]

Hi a little update. I removed the rear lamp lense to have a quick look at the wires but only had quick look at it's gone dark outside. But now when I put on the right indicator the fog light flashes along with fog light indicator flashing on the dash

[loot]

Ok so check both switches on the brake pedal, 1 may have just come off the pedal which would leave the lights on.
You've moved the wiring and it is common for bad connections with corrosion or fraying wires can cause bleed over. Usually you need to clean the cluster contacts or wiggle the loom near the connector. Mk7 clusters are known to pop the ground track near the stop tail bulb and it comes away from the plastic main body.

[T350camper]

Re: Break lights permanently on

Hi a little update. I removed the rear lamp lense to have a quick look at the wires but only had quick look at it's gone dark outside. But now when I put on the right indicator the fog light flashes along with fog light indicator flashing on the dash

Check the cluster has a really good earth (use an additional wire as a test down to a clean chassis contact). If there is a poor earth, other bulbs will find alternative ways to ground, causing the wrong bulbs to illuminate...usually not at full brilliance). I know you have already been asked, but have you changed a bulb recently? If a single contact bulb has been mistakenly fitted into a twin contact fitting it can power up all kinds of circuits...worth a double check.

[KSProperties]

Hi. Update. May have discovered something but I'm more confused.
I have unplugged 30amp fuse behind the glovebox that is for the break lights and brake lights bulbs were still permanently lit. So I Unplugged 2 fuses 7.5amp which are for tail lights and the brake lights are back working as they should on and off with the pedal being pumped. But obviously now have no tail lights with the fuses being pulled. So not sure where to go from here.

[trnx]

There are three 7.5 A fuses on that section - they are numbered.
The brake switch fuse is also there.
Did you check the rear clusters for corrosion and correct lamps?

[KSProperties]

Ok not sure why this is the case but I went to get 2 new bulbs and everything seems to be working now. Can't understand how new bulbs have sorted it. Will let you know in a few days if still ok.

[T350camper]

If there is a short circuit in either of the bulbs (for any reason) they connect 2 systems with unpredictable results. Power is being directed in places it was not intended for. I think you have it sussed now. Have stress-free New Year

[DieselGuy]

I'd say it's worth checking the brake light switch itself rather than just replacing the one above the pedal. It's possible the switch is faulty or worn out. You might also want to check the wiring and connections to the switch to make sure they're not corroded or damaged.

[loot]

You can unplug the switch on the gearbox which will tell you right away if that's the fault

[Sports140]

Hey!

If by brake light you're referring to the red exclamation mark symbol that comes on when using the handbrake; that also works as a warning light for low brake fluid. Can happen even without a leak, as the brake shoes wear down over time and the calipers have to push further to brake, as well as move their default position further in, demanding more brake fluid/"draining" the reservoir.

Cheers, McGilvray