EGR ISSUES. Mk7 RWD 2.4 TDCi T350.

[Bat135]

Hi. I have a transit mk7 RWD.

It has the engine that runs fromt to back rather than left to right.

I have black smoke intermittently and grey smoke on startup. The intermittent black smoke occurs when revving high, under load or uphill.

I also have the following error codes on forscan. Mainly related to EGR valve. The problem is I changed the EGR valve not so long ago. Could it be the wiring loom that plugs into the EGR valve that’s causing this and not the EGR valve itself?

Pic below of the codes.

Would a removal and cleanup of the EGR valve and the intake solve this? Could I blank the EGR valve off as a possible solution too?

Any advice would be appreciated as it’s driving me nuts. Also noticed lower fuel economy. You might need to zoom in to see error codes.

Thanks in advance. Any insight would be appreciated.

IMG_3292.png

[Bat135]

I also have oil pooling in injector bays. Might be a separate issue.

Other than the black smoke and poor fuel efficiency it’s running and idling fine?

[knobby1]

Hi. I have a transit mk7 RWD.

It has the engine that runs fromt to back rather than left to right.

I have black smoke intermittently and grey smoke on startup. The intermittent black smoke occurs when revving high, under load or uphill.

I also have the following error codes on forscan. Mainly related to EGR valve. The problem is I changed the EGR valve not so long ago. Could it be the wiring loom that plugs into the EGR valve that’s causing this and not the EGR valve itself?

Pic below of the codes.

Would a removal and cleanup of the EGR valve and the intake solve this? Could I blank the EGR valve off as a possible solution too?

Any advice would be appreciated as it’s driving me nuts. Also noticed lower fuel economy. You might need to zoom in to see error codes.

Thanks in advance. Any insight would be appreciated.

IMG_3292.png

Black smoke is usually a boost leak...check inlet manifold & all boost pipes/hoses and intercooler for leaks. EGR stuck open can also cause issues. The Euro-4 EGR valves are notorious for failing, the little plastic geartrain inside breaks and they either stick open or closed.

Blanking the EGR on a Euro-4 will have a fault light on and it will eventually go into limp mode...unless it is properly mapped out.

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

[Galway]

Did you reset PCM module via Forscan after EGR replacement?

[Bat135]

Forgive me for my ignorance but how do I check inlet manifold and pipes fkr leaks. And what pipes should I be looking for? I am an enthusiastic novice but if it’s something I can do myself then I always have a go before calling in the professionals.

[Bat135]

I didn’t reset pcm module. But only have the trial version. So not sure if I can do that.

Regardless of possible vacuum leaks from pipes and intake manifold, as lord knobrot suggested,it’s still showing EGR error codes. So might be two things going on at same time? Not sure.

The other issue is I fitted a cooled version of the EGR and my van is uncooled version. I didn’t join the exposed pipes with a piece of pipe as I have since found online might be needed. Not sure. In a loop kinda of thing do they are not exposed.

[metalworker0]

not vacuum leaks but pressure leaks .. as it has a turbo.

visual inspection on all boost pipes .. everything down wind of the turbo ..
you are checking for cracks , tightness of connections, rotting of the intercooler, a big leak will make a whistling sound when revved.
the egr also has to be dismantled, inspected and cleaned and reassembled

all the best.mark

[knobby1]

I didn’t reset pcm module. But only have the trial version. So not sure if I can do that.

Regardless of possible vacuum leaks from pipes and intake manifold, as lord knobrot suggested,it’s still showing EGR error codes. So might be two things going on at same time? Not sure.

The other issue is I fitted a cooled version of the EGR and my van is uncooled version. I didn’t join the exposed pipes with a piece of pipe as I have since found online might be needed. Not sure. In a loop kinda of thing do they are not exposed.

These engines don't have any vacuum in the inlet sysyem, they're a positive pressure setup due to the turbo.....As metalworker0 mentions, a boost leak will often whistle under boost/acceleration whilst under load. The 2.4's usually split the long boost pipe from the intercooler to the manifold.... this hose/pipe runs up from the intercooler at the bottom left side of the engine, (right side as you look at it from the front), and up behind the water pump where it connects to the steel MAP sensor pipe on the inlet manifold..

The little steel pipes on the EGR can be left open to the atmosphere...They're not connected to anything inside the EGR valve...it's essentially just a "through" pipe meant to help cool the EGR valve body...mine doesn't have the cooled one either and the hole just goes straight through the valve body.

Lord Knobrot (Smithy).

[Bat135]

Ok

I will do the reset and che k fkr vacuum leaks. I will then get back to you with an update. To see if these either fix it or can be eliminated.

Thanks for your help so far.

[andz327]

Ok

I will do the reset and che k fkr vacuum leaks. I will then get back to you with an update. To see if these either fix it or can be eliminated.

Thanks for your help so far.

IT'S NOT VACUM LEAKS IT'S BLOWING NOT SUCKING
the wiring does get brittle so definitely check wiring for breaks
was it a genuine egr fitted ?

Sent from my SM-G990B using Tapatalk

[Bat135]

Think it was aftermarket EGR

Will cleaning the EG R and fitting new wiring connector be a good place to start? It’s like the EGR is not being recognised. The symptoms are 100pc loss of power up hills and smoke under load or on hills. Strangely enough it seems to have more power with EGR plugged in than without. But intermittent black smoke with it either plugged in or unplugged.

And error codes above.

[metalworker0]

EGR's are not consistent when they fail .. they can stick and un-stick themselves, in the weeks leading up to total stickage. so diagnostics will see it differently and lead you astray sometimes

EGR .. will fail eventually on ALL transits due the gunge build up .. and cleaning should be looked upon as a servicing event that you have to carry out t regularly.


all the best.mark

[knobby1]

Think it was aftermarket EGR

Will cleaning the EG R and fitting new wiring connector be a good place to start? It’s like the EGR is not being recognised. The symptoms are 100pc loss of power up hills and smoke under load or on hills. Strangely enough it seems to have more power with EGR plugged in than without. But intermittent black smoke with it either plugged in or unplugged.

And error codes above.

The EGR is probably munted....temporarily blank it off and if the engine comes good, you know where to look. Cleaning them is pointless if the little plastic geartrain is broken or the wiring is poorly...They get full of oily-sooty gunge due to the engines eating their own exhaust....fitting a catch can will help greatly. Fitted one to mine years ago and the inlet ports & manifold are so much cleaner now.

Below is what they can look like:

images1.jpg

EGR-clogged.jpg

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

[Bat135]

Thing is I don’t know where to look?

I just look things up online to see if I can fix it. Given the EGR is quite new I reakon the wiring is iffy.

Is there anything I can take off easily to check in order to diagnose. Before spending unecessary money?

[Bat135]

So could it be the exhaust?

I have decided to buy a knock off cheap EGR valve. Just to rule that out.

Just going to fit it. Reset all codes and see what changes. But suspect it’s two thing happening at the same time as replaced EGR previously myself. Seems to always happen at winter.