euro 5 2.2 rwd engine type help ID

[trannynick]

Hi all i have the 2013 2.2 rwd euro 5 engine out due to knocking, looks like the piston skirts of 1 & 4 are scoring the cylinder walls and they have a lot of play compared to 2 & 3 which are near perfect, so im stripping it down and going to rebuild it. Im struggling to find the engine type. only main codes i can see are RFBK 3Q 6015 on the block, above the oil filter housing, the flat bit near the bell housing has no numbers on it either. Not sure which variant it is, Is there an RFBK? Any help is appeciated - Its actually in a Ranger but same thing. Thankyou

[metalworker0]

cant add much - last time i looked there were no pistons from ford, non in the parts diagrams , you have to buy the short motor or pattern pistons

just noticed seems to be a lot of piston oilers getting sold .. wonder if that's a problem.

all the best.mark

[tranmx2]

RFBK 3Q 6015. RFBK code. 3Q6015 eng' number.
On the block rhs rear next to gearbox. Near to eng speed sensor. On the head rhs at the rear side. Vin on the pass' pillar and sometimes on the screen. The VIN contains the engine number. On the pillar is the eng' code. If the vin on the pass' pillar does not have the same eng' number as is on the engine the engine has been changed.

Put the VIN into catcar or autodoc to get more info. There is a program into which the VIN is put to find where the van was made etc.

Recon' shops sometimes have lists of equivalent eng' codes.

https://www.commercial-engines.co.uk/bhagavata/43 RFBK not seen - there is a phone number. The present eng in my van its code is not listed.

[trannynick]

Thanks guys - Yes, its had an engine change already, the vin doesnt match the engine number plus its been rebuilt at some point as im finding when stripping it down - Here are pictures of all the markings on the head and block, still cant ID it - The fact its not the original engine so buying parts off reg plate alone wont be entirely accurate either - Thanks

[trannynick]

more pics

[knobby1]

more pics

The numbers you're showing are just manufacture casting numbers...nothing to do with engine codes....the engine number will be usually "stamped" into the block, not cast and is usually at the right rear under the exhaust manifold and right side of the head, unless the engine has been changed or replaced, in which case the stamp pads may be blank. There's often a sticker on the timing cover too which has the four digit code...but they usually fall off or just deteriorate.

imagen2.jpg

2.2 Euro-5 engine codes are as follows:

CYRA, CYRB, CYR5, CVR5, CVRA, CV24, DRRA, DRRB, DRRC, USR6, and UYR6.

The difference is whether FWD or RWD and which hp rating they are...All the FWD's are essentially physically the same....All the RWD's are eseentially physically all the same...it's just the hp rating, usually determined by the PCM firmware, which differentiates them.

RWD's are:
Ford Transit 2.2 EURO 5 RWD MK7 & MK8
Engine codes : CVR5 CVRA CYRB DRR5 UYR6

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

[trannynick]

more pics

The numbers you're showing are just manufacture casting numbers...nothing to do with engine codes....the engine number will be usually "stamped" into the block, not cast and is usually at the right rear under the exhaust manifold and right side of the head, unless the engine has been changed or replaced, in which case the stamp pads may be blank. There's often a sticker on the timing cover too which has the four digit code...but they usually fall off or just deteriorate.

imagen2.jpg

2.2 Euro-5 engine codes are as follows:

CYRA, CYRB, CYR5, CVR5, CVRA, CV24, DRRA, DRRB, DRRC, USR6, and UYR6.

The difference is whether FWD or RWD and which hp rating they are...All the FWD's are essentially physically the same....All the RWD's are eseentially physically all the same...it's just the hp rating, usually determined by the PCM firmware, which differentiates them.

RWD's are:
Ford Transit 2.2 EURO 5 RWD MK7 & MK8
Engine codes : CVR5 CVRA CYRB DRR5 UYR6

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

Hi, many thanks for the help - I found the code, it was barely visible. Its a DRRA block - I think that was originally in a transit and now fitted to my ranger, my ranger is rated the tdci 150 model yet i believe the DRRA engine was only 100hp output - It has oversize 0.5mm pistons fitted to it, 2 of which have siezed rings and piston skirt scoring on the bore, im looking to replace just two of the pistons and i may be wrong but i think the 0.5mm pistons look a little tight in the bore, there is almost no clearance between piston and bore when dropped into the bore without the rings fitted, im going to find my feeler gauge and see if i can work out the clearance, its not too long rebuilt but has failed already, (i bought it with a knocking engine, bearings are all ok, just the seized rings and piston scoring - Could i go back to standard size pistons or is that a bad idea? Thanks very much.

[metalworker0]

if the pistons look like that .. what does the bore look like ?

you are going to have to purchase some measuring instruments .. or just take it to an engine machine shop and trust to them to decide to rebore or hone .

all the best.mark

[trannynick]

if the pistons look like that .. what does the bore look like ?

you are going to have to purchase some measuring instruments .. or just take it to an engine machine shop and trust to them to decide to rebore or hone .

all the best.mark

Hi, the bore isnt too bad at all, ive ordered a cheap honer online, ive been at it with the scotchpads, got most of the piston material off, ive never paid a shop in my life Mark and would rather cobble it all together as its only a cheap workhorse to plod from A to B in - I think it will be ok with some more time on it, most of the marks are visual and it still feels smooth

[knobby1]

Hi, the bore isnt too bad at all, ive ordered a cheap honer online, ive been at it with the scotchpads, got most of the piston material off, ive never paid a shop in my life Mark and would rather cobble it all together as its only a cheap workhorse to plod from A to B in - I think it will be ok with some more time on it, most of the marks are visual and it still feels smooth

That bore is done...all honing will do is make the bore oversize...there's a very small tollerance of piston to bore clearance of 0.01mm or 0.0025". There are also three classes of bore diameters and three classes of piston diameters...these must be matched properly or you'll end up back where you are now. Why bother doing it if you're not going to do it properly.

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

[metalworker0]

well a little knowledge about my own attempts at honing

unless rebore before a hone .. the type of hones with flat stones will skip the top half of the cylinder because its resting on the unworn portion at the top as you draw it up.

that's why someone came up with this type of hone, not necessarily this actual one .. found this for illustration purposes ..only.. first one in search .. not looked at detail

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397867468066?

all you can do if yours isn't one of these .. is carefully take down unworn with flap disk - i'm describing a botch that got me another 60,000

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190 ... eream1.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190 ... eream2.jpg

anyway the flat stone hone will show up any wear for what it is .. you'll be able to see and decide .. because the wear it will skip areas and it will stand out plain as day


all the best.mark

[trannynick]

Hi, the bore isnt too bad at all, ive ordered a cheap honer online, ive been at it with the scotchpads, got most of the piston material off, ive never paid a shop in my life Mark and would rather cobble it all together as its only a cheap workhorse to plod from A to B in - I think it will be ok with some more time on it, most of the marks are visual and it still feels smooth

That bore is done...all honing will do is make the bore oversize...there's a very small tollerance of piston to bore clearance of 0.01mm or 0.0025". There are also three classes of bore diameters and three classes of piston diameters...these must be matched properly or you'll end up back where you are now. Why bother doing it if you're not going to do it properly.

Lord Knobrot (Smithy)

Hi, i got the truck for less than a grand, 2013 ranger with lift kit etc so a bargain, if i can have it running for around 300 quid which i think i can do then its a cheap runaround, i have just bought a couple of good used .50 pistons and rods for 90 pound, need bearing shells, headgasket kit and will fit a new oil pump too, i only do a few miles a week, i will buy another engine and rebuild it properly, thats the plan but this one i just want running and even if i get 6 months out of it, i'll be happy. But yes, another block will be sourced, im looking to get a peugeot campervan with the 2.2 also so its all a learning curve and the start of a collection of duratorq parts, i already have the 2.4 in my current camper. Thanks for the advice Smithy.

[trannynick]

well a little knowledge about my own attempts at honing

unless rebore before a hone .. the type of hones with flat stones will skip the top half of the cylinder because its resting on the unworn portion at the top as you draw it up.

that's why someone came up with this type of hone, not necessarily this actual one .. found this for illustration purposes ..only.. first one in search .. not looked at detail

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397867468066?

all you can do if yours isn't one of these .. is carefully take down unworn with flap disk - i'm describing a botch that got me another 60,000

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190 ... eream1.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190 ... eream2.jpg

anyway the flat stone hone will show up any wear for what it is .. you'll be able to see and decide .. because the wear it will skip areas and it will stand out plain as day


all the best.mark

thanks for the tips on the honing, much appreciated - I will update with my attempt, i did order the 3 arm stone hone, i will look into maybe an alternative way of getting the transfer material off

[metalworker0]

i was only looking yesterday at a similar to yours bore scoring on you tube .. and the experts said it was toast

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZebWJnBmr0

17 mins in

All the best.mark

[trannynick]

i was only looking yesterday at a similar to yours bore scoring on you tube .. and the experts said it was toast

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZebWJnBmr0

17 mins in

All the best.mark

I just watched that segment, those americans, theyre so dramatic! Ive ordered hydrochloric acid to try eat the aluminium deposits off the cylinder, it doesnt have to be perfect, its a cheap budget build. Will update on outcome! Just got a question on piston numbers -