350 Trany prob

[transitgeoff]

Hi todays problem my rear brakes are as good as had it, one slight problem,CANT GET THE BLOODY DRUMS OFF!! so does anyone have a trick up there sleave? ive hit them for ages but not a movement HELP!!!

[Nighthawk]

Yes, I know how to do it





pick me sir..............pick me











/waves arm at the back of the class

[transitgeoff]

well come on then lad, tell the class, we are waiting!

[Nighthawk]

Raise and support the vehicle, mark the wheel position in relation to the ½ shaft......i remove the lil plastic centre cap and use chalk

remove the wheel, mark the drum in relation to the ½ shaft, again using chalk.

Now, depending on where it's tight we have some choices to make.

Adjusting the brakes down is a mare because bosch got the hole in the back plate wrong

Knock one of the wheel studs into the drum and then rotate the drum until you can see the adjuster through the stud hole.

using a screwdriver through that hole, and another to flick round the adjuster wheel through the back plate you can wind the shoes away from the drum.

If it's still tight, it's probably siezed onto the ½ shaft.


The best way to attack that without damage to the drum is..............

remove the spare wheel

remove the diff pan

rotate the diff untill you can see a small 8mm bolt head which secures the planet gear cross shaft. undo the bolt and slide out the cross shaft.

spin the planet gears with your fingers and remove them and their shims.

You can now see the clips which hold the ½ shafts in in a recess in the sun gears. get someone to press the shafts in towards the centre of the vehicle, that'll give you room to flick the clips off the shafts.

with the shafts unclipped you can slide the drum and shaft out of the axle tube. Once it's off the vehicle, you can either use a press if available to shove the shaft out of the drum, or use a big hammer to knock the shaft out of the drum.

I've always found that they come off the shaft ok once it's all stripped.

During the rebuild, seal the pan back on to the axle with a liquid sealer and set the adjusters up with approx 10mm of thread showing with the new shoes fitted. And a thin smear of copperslip on the shaft contact area with the drum.

That process was used by dealers in a TSB for this concern.

[transitgeoff]

Ta very much will check it out tomorrow, why mark the wheel and drum position?

[Nighthawk]

Might be a little late for you now but......

Marking the wheel and the drum ensures they go back in the correct place and avoids balance issues or judder issues.

smacking the drums for an hour usually causes a distortion which gives rise to a judder when braking.

Putting everthing back together in the same place and correctly torquing up the wheels helps reduce the chance of it.

200Nm on the wheel nuts please

[transitgeoff]

Top tip on the stud Thursday night b4 i went home i sprayed a load of Safteykleens own brand penetrating oil around the drum and shaft area and left it overnight,This morning when i went in i banged through a stud and saw the adjuster, i poked a thin screwdriver in through the backplate to hold down the ratchet thingy,then wound off the adjuster, BANG out wiyh me lump hammer and ping off it came well i couldnt beleive it,cheers for a top tip, if you could see what i did to the other side Thursday night !! i bashed the granny out of it so much that eventually the drum did come off and ripped the shoe retainers out and broke a nugget out of the bloody wheel cylinder! anyway its done now, well next job is the other one i mentioned with the fusable link wire burnt, i will let you know what happens oh and the shudder was a loose pipe opn the rack, must have been letting in air.

[Nighthawk]

Nice one

Happy to help with most tranny issues.......although I draw the line when Luke puts a dress on

[Luke]

although I draw the line when Luke puts a dress on

aw mate i thought i could count on you!!!

[Nighthawk]

[transitgeoff]

Well today i attacked the glowplug/fusable link prob, well i tested the remains of the link to find it wanted to draw power even when the ignition was off so i looked deeper to find the grey relay was u/s so changed that and the link PERFECT !!! all done, but anyway, why do they need glowplugs??

[Nighthawk]

Nice one......did you have a good look at the plugs?

The relay doesn't normally weld it's self closed unless the plugs are drawing too much.

The plugs on the 2.4 are used more for reducing the grey smoke on start up than cold starting over here.