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Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Thu Oct 14, 2021 5:19 pm

continued from page 6 other posts on page 6 today - this picture showing - where the waxoyle hole is without panels in place looking from inner wheel arch
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Thu Oct 14, 2021 5:22 pm

showing the two panels in trial fitted into place ..the 90 degree one requires further trimming..
It's now windy so cant do any more today.

total yesterday and today 6 hours
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Fri Oct 15, 2021 4:56 pm

welding on end of sill done ..just need 4174744 plastic expansion nut the holds the bottom the the wheel arch trim /spat

Was on ebay the other day for £1.29.....went there today ..it's not there any more :(

Old one lost one of its fingers when i took it off .
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Oct 16, 2021 6:41 pm

Main piece of outer sill - fitting

They were bought off ebay ..£18 each with free delivery

They are not complete outer sills..they fit a smaller area they don't have the jacking point directional arrows, they are bare steel and there is a quite a bit of fettling to make them fit. however they are made- "one size fits all" ..so they are longer to fit the long wheel base.

They need cutting to length ..and some trimmed off the height.

They also don't have the proper angle ...they are 90 degrees ......if you fitted them like that you would have horizontal floors to the sills which would, look terrible, fill with condensate or water and rot.

You can get the ones with arrows ..they are complete sills and cost something like £40 each.
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Oct 16, 2021 6:45 pm

to get over the problem of the flange being at the wrong angle i made a template out of wood ..with an initial angle that i could start with...slide this up and down whilst bending with pliers until the whole sill has that angle on it ..
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Oct 16, 2021 6:48 pm

offer the sill up to the van and hold roughly in place, mark a cut line and so that you can get the sill within half and inch of what it needs to be.
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Oct 16, 2021 6:51 pm

Notice at this stage the sill looks like its been made wrong and will never fit ...

that is because more bending of the flange is required.
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Oct 16, 2021 6:58 pm

Now decide accurately what amount needs to come off the sill - draw a line ..and cut as strait as you can -- it can be no more than 2mm out. cut on the waist side of the line.
note you are taking some off the new sill and some off the van later ...so leave plenty of wiggle room. don't cut too much off .

Yes - this is complicated and stressful - so take your time .
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Oct 16, 2021 7:09 pm

Once you've made that cut ..start trial fitting for the next stage

Use a strait edge to make sure you are level and correct with no distortion ..look down and sight panels from every angle (pic 1)


When you are on your own you may have to prop it into the position a few times ..with wooden props whilst being secured at the flange with clamps. (pic 2)

After taking it off a few times and re-bending the flange angle, when you feel no pressure is needed to get the sill into position (note pressure on props is not that much in the initial stages probably about 3-4 lbs any more than that, Eg.- hammering them in, then you are doing something wrong and may distort the panel )..that is the sill meeting with he existing panel, only then, are you ready to mark out the second cut on the van itself. (pic 3) this will follow the exact shape of the newly cut sill.

That's as far as I've got today - 3 hours
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Mon Oct 18, 2021 2:22 pm

The next stages are difficult to describe, they have not been done yet because of the rain. this outer sill is what people will look at ..so its important that you get it right ..or the whole job will look a co%k.

When you eventually do the second cut on the vans remaining sill, you will then then install a backing plate. (more descriptions of that when i get to that stage)

Why - (this is what they don't tell you on youtube)...because the metal is very thin and dictates this, welding without a backing plate will result in you turning the current down on the welder to avoid burning holes, this results in lack of penetration...and when you grind the weld down flush afterwards ..you'll end up with a very thin week area, that could be tin foil thickness that does not have a strong weld..and will probably crack at the seam with the slightest knock.

Fist picture: showing positioning of sill and magnets keeping both surfaces on a plane with each other. - note how the bottom flange now springs out - don't worry about this.

Second picture: shows weld in place, ..put most of the seams along the top at this stage ..do not attempt to clamp the bottom in place. the gap will grow larger at the bottom because the weld seams will contract the metal as they cool down.

Third picture shows bow - exaggerated in the pictures to get the point across. ..as you clamp the bottom flange in place - this bow which is less than 0.5mm will work to your advantage when you grind the weld down ..it will stop you undercutting the panel either side of the weld ...also remember the weld has small pits either side of it ......anyway taking notice of how things move and distort during welding ..you can pre- plan how you want things to turn out ..not have the job dictate to you as you go along . when i say bow this is a corrective bow that will hopefully put any small amount of distortion right and you;ll end up with with hopefully a perfect looking job

This does not always work out right ..and what I'm trying to convey to you ..is how i want it to happen .....it worked at 100 percent on the other side . and I hope it works out for you .
Doing it this way will result in a better stronger job with absolute minimum of filler
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Thu Oct 21, 2021 4:32 pm

Backing strip fitted.

Note number of clamps ad punch tool used to make holes
Spot welds were started in the middle and gradually added middle outwards until they reached both ends.
The punch tool made the panel a little buckled in places ...but the backing strip when clamped, put everything true and strait ...added a lot of rigidity to the job ...as before whole panel could be flexed. 2 hours
Meanwhile outer sill is ready to be fitted it has the spot weld holes and has been painted o the inside,
Too windy today - i need a good day to fit this.
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Oct 23, 2021 4:10 pm

Sun rain wind - wind rain sun ..all within space of two hours ..

Very hard to get things done ..
PIC 1 .Line of magnets hold it in place ..note to leave at least a 2mm gap ..as panel with scissor inwards with contraction whilst being welded ..NOTE: even with spot welds and gap will close up.

PIC 2. Broom used as extra pair of hands, as i did not have a friend to push on it

PIC 3 . Spot welded into place on top only ..note the concentration of holes near the jacking point end of sill to provide extra strength in these parts stop jack peeling the layers apart .

PIC 4. Wrapped up and sealed for the weekend ..as there is a lot of bare metal exposed ..it is only painted on the inside. note amount of leaves that were blowing around in the two hours from first picture to last .

all the best.mark
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby Chug » Sat Oct 23, 2021 6:20 pm

Good pics and explanation, looks like its coming along nicely. I was also using a broom against the wall today!
to hold my rotavator at an angle whilst I took the tines off and measured up the drive shafts, and then welded some suitably sized tubes onto some old wheels to make them fit the drive shafts. So now it drives itself up my ramps for easier loading 8)
1991(J) twin wheel tipper 2.5di
1994(L) twin wheel tipper 2.5di
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Oct 23, 2021 9:35 pm

Yeah i have an old rotavator .Garden master with a J.A.P engine..missing drive shaft
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Re: Connect sill repair part 1, 2 , 3 showing before repair

Postby metalworker0 » Sun Oct 24, 2021 1:08 pm

Scissor effect on welding butt joints (you don't want this to happen! )

This only really effects very long butt joints ..particularly on sills .

If you butt up the panels right against each other ...and start welding at one end ..the contraction amount (welds contract as they cool down and pull panels towards each other) accumulates as you approach the other end , it may only be 0.1mm per spot ...but after 10 spots that could be 1mm, after 20 it could be 2mm and so on.

note pictures are exaggerated to help you see the effect

Picture 1. Shows butt joint with 2-3 mm gap ...you just about get away with it.

Picture 2. has no gap ....half way along you'll find yourself fighting to stop the panel overlapping ......so you now don't have a butt joint and it cant be ground down without being thin, its bumpy ..and your job is ruined!

Picture 3. shows the whole sill and welds numbered so you can try and help stop the scissor effect, numbers will be relevant to the amount of welds you put in place (note number 10 should be number 9)

Notice i say help ..sometimes it's in the lap of the gods and skill of the welder, even if you follow my 3rd picture it can still end up wrong ..so be warned .

Yet another reason you need the backing plate to help set your gap.

all the best..mark
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