Crank no start 1.8 tddi 2005

[Totty79]

Hi,
I have just joined the forum as I am having trouble with my 2005 Transit Connect 1.8 tddi.

I bump started it a few times as I thought the battery was going, it wouldnt start/turnover and the lights would dim when turning the key. It then wouldn't bump on the third attempt and there seemed to be more resistance. Ibassumed the starter was stuck in. I had to get it recovered the recovery guy said the battery was good and it was probably the starter.

It had to be rolled to the recovery vehicle and the bottom of the front bumper impacted on the road surface quite hard.

I have changed the starter and it now cranks but wont start.

I have checked there is fuel at the injectors, and I have replaced the battery as it did go flat a while ago.

It does run briefly with easy start.

I have paid for forscan as the cheap handheld reader would only get code p1000. I now have codes:

P1564 fuel injection pump reduced fuel mode request
P1664 fuel injection pump malfunction

I have also read live data from the fuel pump and get some error codes, and what seem to be weird readings to me.

The supply voltage pid shows voltage spikes of 700v, then 0v then 600v etc.
The status pids also show some faults, but these are intermittent. After a few voltage spikes and drops:
Status 4 Angle of rotation sensor (current) which starts as showing a fault, switches to no fault.
At that time Angle of rotation sensor (permanent) switches from no fault to fault. As do idle switch level, solenoid voltage too high/low (current)and temperature too high.

Obd rpm pid does give a reading of over 200 rpm. Does this use the crank sensor data and does that mean the crank sensor is okay?

The grounds look a bit rusty but when I check resistance with a multi meter I get less than 1 ohm for everything I have checked so far.

Although it was above 1 when I checked battery negative to the steel by the fusebox behind the glove compartment.

I am wondering what the issues might be.
It's possible there is damage to looms around the front bumper and fan from the impact when being recovered.
I've read that bumping can cause timing to go out. The pid for Begining of injection point not recognized shows no fault. Does this indicate timing is okay?
Could I have caused damage firring the starter, or is it possible to wore it up wrong?
Could trying to start with a broken starter have fries some electrics?

I'm no mechanic, but am mechanically minded. Any advice on what to look at would be really appreciated.

Sorry for all the questions!
Rob

[metalworker0]

All TDDI'S have a common problem

and it is: EDC Module can fail.

This module sits on top of the fuel pump

There are various places that fix them

Here is one service ..this is not my recommendation, as i dont know them and have not used them ,..just naming one as example ...there are many companies performing this service.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283320716461?

Scroll down read the description and they mention two of the codes that you mention.

I cant guarantee that this is the cause ..but worth looking into.


all the best.mark

[Totty79]

Thanks Mark,
I will look in to that.
It feels very unlucky for the pump and the ecu o go at the same time which is why I'm wondering if something else is the cause.
Is there any way to be certain the ecu has a problem do you know?

[metalworker0]

Well a search on P1664 in this forum here, ( note: done from google) has it returning a more specific answer ---- injection pump control module malfunction

Would that be enough to make your mind up

Like i said disclaimer ..no one here ..explains how to test the EDU --- and the solution is in other answers here is to send it off .

But me being cheap ..i would be doing everything to avoid that fee first

No good testing for continuity ..with tiny voltages, if items are effected by big amps when under load.

so look at the date 2005 ...19 years old ..I say start undoing the earths.. and positives ..on the charging system and starter motor and battery..take them off and clean them. probably needs that treatment anyway . no matter what fault it has.


all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

oh the bumping..that isn't with the connect, its with the mk6/7s with complete timing chain from crank to head.

and note ..running battery down to nothing ..will make all electronics behave erratically and show fault codes

come to think about, it check the wiring etc related to that edu

all the best.mark

[Totty79]

Hi Mark,
Yes that's enough to make my mind up! I will do as you say and clean up the starter and alternator connections and the earths I can see in the engine bay first, but failing that I'll take the ecu off the pump and send it off.
Thanks for your help.
Rob

[Totty79]

Great news about the timing. I was concerned about that as it would be too expensive to get done.

[metalworker0]

Had a look under mine today ..there is a connection block on the starter ..that is right in line of fire of road salt and the weather , wet roads ..spray from other vehicles. The terminals look well exposed..the mk1s don't seem to have an undertray that makes them vulnerable in that region.

The mk2s have a 2 piece under the whole lot, undertray that protects these items ...i don't think it fits a mk1

all the best.mark

[Totty79]

Hi Mark,
I have finally got round to taking a look at the cable from the battery to the starter. The cable at the battery connector has a few broken strands (see pic), but not loads. I have cleaned up all connectors and will try to refit it.
The 10mm connector to the starter is a bit deformed (see second pic) Should the new nut that came with the starter sit under this connector, so the connector is sandwiched between two nuts?
Thansk for your help!
Rob

[metalworker0]

Yes all showing their age ..make sure all that green "Verdigris" is cleaned off ..maybe investigate chopping a bit off the lead and re-attach it, IF THAT IS POSSIBLE OR DO-ABLE or if it will reach when done, or a new lead...I don't know the state of the red cable inside of the connector ..'cause i cant see it .
you can buy new terminals to fix the problem ..a bit hit and miss if ordering online ..best visit automotive retailers and look at them
some will be cheap and nasty ..some will be quality and a snug fit ..noting that the posts are tapered

I think one battery post is smaller than the other ..!!!!!!!
so different terminal sizes so important ..

Maybe use a few copper washers between the connections to make more conductive.

There is every chance all thick earths and positives on the van are in similar condition.



all the best.mark