2010 1.8 TDCI Connect Vacuum Pump

[unclechoi]

Hi all,

Currently replacing the vacuum pump on my 2010 Transit Connect. Managed to get the old one off but I'm now struggling with attaching the new one.

The eccentric pin is at its loosest, but I can't push the pump against it whilst getting it in the right position. A pipe also seems to be getting in the way! Other models with the TDCI seem to have easier access.

Any advice? Cheers

[metalworker0]

Here are the instructions from the manual , for removing and installing from step 12.

i think 13 - 15 says to me that the cam operated plunger comes out in such a way .. that it can only be undone this way, and maybe the plunger has to be in the position you took it off at, as maybe is the only way of putting it back on... so i think you'll be turning the crank with a spanner or rolling van back and forward in gear to see if this any difference. plus it does say detach the oil seperator .. is that in the way? that's the breather trap.

12. Loosen the vacuum pump retaining bolts by 2
1/2 turns.
13. Select fourth gear.
14. Release the parking brake.
15. Move the car forwards, rotating the engine, until
the vacuum pump becomes loose.
16. Remove the vacuum pump.
1. Loosen the lower retaining bolt.
2. Remove the upper retaining bolt.
3. Remove the vacuum pump.
17. Remove the vacuum pump seal.

Discard the seal

installing
1. Install a new vacuum pump seal.
2. Install the brake vacuum pump.
3. Attach the vacuum pump oil drain hose.
4. Attach the oil separator.
1. Install the retaining bolt.
2. Attach the oil separator drain hose.
3. Attach the engine coolant temperature
sensor electrical connector.
5. Connect the oil pressure switch
6. Attach the glow plug electrical connector.
7. Attach the oil seperator upper and lower hoses.

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

whole procedure just in case you missed a stage .

1. Remove the air intake cover.
2. Detach the air intake hose clips.
3. Detach the intercooler.
4. Disconnect the intercooler electrical connector.
5. Remove the intercooler.
6. Detach the vacuum hose from the vacuum
pump.
7. Detach the upper and lower oil separator hoses.
8. Detach the glow plug electrical connector.
9. Disconnect the oil pressure switch.

10. Detach the oil separator.
1. Detach the engine coolant temperature
sensor electrical connector.
2. Detach the oil separator drain hose.
3. Remove the bolt.

11. Detach the vacuum pump oil drain hose.
12. Loosen the vacuum pump retaining bolts by 2
1/2 turns.
13. Select fourth gear.
14. Release the parking brake.
15. Move the car forwards, rotating the engine, until
the vacuum pump becomes loose.

16. Remove the vacuum pump.
1. Loosen the lower retaining bolt.
2. Remove the upper retaining bolt.
3. Remove the vacuum pump.

17. Remove the vacuum pump seal.

Discard the seal
1. Install a new vacuum pump seal.
2. Install the brake vacuum pump.
3. Attach the vacuum pump oil drain hose.

4. Attach the oil separator.
1. Install the retaining bolt.
2. Attach the oil separator drain hose.
3. Attach the engine coolant temperature
sensor electrical connector.
5. Connect the oil pressure switch
6. Attach the glow plug electrical connector.
7. Attach the oil seperator upper and lower hoses.
8. Attach the vacuum hose to the brake vacuum
pump.
9. Install the intercooler.
10. Connect the intercooler electrical connector.
11. Attach the air intake hose clips.
12. Install the air intake cover.

[unclechoi]

Here are the instructions from the manual , for removing and installing from step 12.

Thank you Mark. Wish I'd have seen these instructions earlier. It doesn't go into as much depth in the Haynes manual nor in the YouTube videos. Ended up doing steps 12-15 incorrectly.

I loosened both bolts, then rotated the engine via a jacked wheel in gear until it was loose enough for me to wrangle the pump off. Since then I've loosened the pin by rotating the engine again, but that's probably not as precise as via the bottom front engine pulley?

Unfortunately been struggling to reach the pulley but seems that's what I need to do?

And pardon my ignorance, which one is the breather trap? The green one is disconnected and the red one is in the way.

Many thanks,
Choi

[metalworker0]

upper lower oil sperator hoses first picture

The breather thing is the plastic box with rounded corners last picture

To be able to get at the crank pulley a little plastic guard has to come off at the bottom of the inner wing. second picture

[metalworker0]

ringed items in your picture .. only - if in the way . take them off

all the best.mark

[unclechoi]

ringed items in your picture .. only - if in the way . take them off

all the best.mark

Thanks Mark for your reply. The diagrams are really useful. The oil separator is already disconnected and the pipes coming from it aren't blocking the pump.

It's this pipe blocking me in picture 1, which wraps around to the rear of the engine. Picture 2 showing how it's being blocked. I can't position the pump out and low enough to push up against the eccentric pin.

That's the pulley way down there in picture 3, right? My view isn't really lining up with the diagram. The small area is where I struggle to get my arm down and I'm quite small!

Many thanks
Choi

[unclechoi]

Ps what manual are you referencing?

Cheers
Choi

[metalworker0]

The official ford one .
and sorry , no you cant have a copy .. as the guy here who sent it to me said he had paid to download it , and would rather not have me share it in its entirety. even this isn't complete .. no wiring diagrams in it .


all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

the crank pulley in the last picture is best accessed with that cover removed - middle pic in the diagrams i put up .. you get even better access if you remove the wheel.

the hoses you refer to i cannot see on my van i would have to take the intercooler out to get a better view .

JUST SO YOU KNOW --are you aware that all 1.8 connects made after October 2007 have a wetbelt and change interval is sketchy .. some saying 80,000 or ten years ... some saying less. 60,000 and 6 years

all the best.mark

[unclechoi]

The official ford one .
and sorry , no you cant have a copy .. as the guy here who sent it to me said he had paid to download it , and would rather not have me share it in its entirety. even this isn't complete .. no wiring diagrams in it .


all the best.mark

No worries Mark. We finally got everything back on and the brakes work again. Really appreciate your help.

Is there any chance you could share the procedure to bleeding the coolant? Or just where I might find the bleeder screw?

Cheers
Choi

[metalworker0]

Don't think there is a procedure for bleeding the coolant

i tell you what i do .

I First put cabin heater dial to hot position.
After mixing correct quantity/ ratio of antifreeze ... I fill up cooling system.. whilst doing this, i squish the larger pipes rhythmically with hands to cause a pump action effect that expels air and lets coolant enter.. fill and do this ... fill and do it again ... until you cant hear air squishing about. and your actions only show the coolant level rising and falling as you squish and no more air bubbles into the expansion tank .

Start engine .. with cap left removed... let it run until thermostat opens .. and radiator begins to warm .

Turn off engine .. start squishing again. top up , put cap back on ......take for drive .. and check level in header tank the next day or when cooled down.

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

procedure from manual .. if my method does not work

1. Disconnect the heater supply hose from the
engine.
2. Using a funnel, fill the cooling system through
the supply hose until coolant starts to trickle
from the engine.
3. Reconnect the heater supply hose.
4. NOTE: Make sure that the in-car heater
temperature control is in the HOT position
and the heater blower switch is in the OFF
position. Make sure the air conditioning is
switched OFF.
Refill the coolant expansion tank up to the MAX
mark (with the engine switched off).
5. Install the expansion tank cap.
6. Warm the engine up at 2750 RPM for two fan
cycles.
7. Leave the engine to cool down and then recheck
the coolant level. Top up to the MAX mark as
required.