Starting up an old 2006 connect after 6 years

[Connect22]

Hi, I'm new to the forum and hoping to get some advice about a new project. I've not done much work on cars before but getting into it so thought I'd defer to those with more experience.

I'm trying to get an old transit connect back on the road, it's been left to rot for about 6 years but want to get it up and running again for my mum. It ran fine last time it was used, the turbo just started to fail and she couldn't afford to fix it so she just left it on the drive way.

Checked coolant and oil, which are surprisingly fine. I replaced the air intake hose as it had deteriorated and popped a new air filter in. It just needs diesel and a new battery which I have now bought. Check intakes and holes for any animals or debris that might have made it's way in and it looks clear.

I've done a bit of research online about pulling out the glow plugs and manually cranking the engine before starting it up, but do you think this will be necessary? If anyone has any experience starting these engines after a bit of time, I'd appreciate the advice. Its 2006 Connect 1.8 Diesel TDCi.

If I've missed any info apologies!

[metalworker0]

well after six years anythings possible .. rust in the bores is the biggest threat.

These things start up without glow plugs .. no need to worry about them

if it was a petrol engine.. then you'd be pulling the spark plugs and looking in the bore with a boroscope..

Pulling the injectors or glow plugs can lead to trouble .. snapping , seized etc

So you'll just have to take the risk that because its a diesel and an oily engine .. that the bores are ok

So first off

Support on axle stands, take off drivers side wheel, take off bottom engine cover.. you now have access to the crank to see if engine will turn over easily with a socket on the crank bolt.

Whilst there .. inspect auxiliary belt condition and crank pulley..pulley has rubber damper sometimes rots out rubber.

if its been standing on grass or soil for all these years then you may have rotten brake pipes- inspect .

the brakes may be seized and the disks un-usable

You need new or freshly charged batteries.. make sure earths neutrals are clean and free of corrosion .to starter .. to body to battery etc.

if it meets all those conditions, disconnect crank sensor .. so that you can turn the engine over without firing for a min or so , to get the oil to the right places.

connect sensor back up ... and give it a go .

what else

Tyres could no good .. cracked sidewalls .. and permanent flat spots due to standing.
Radiator rotted away.
Hand brake seized.
Condensate in brake fluid that leads to corrosion inside the system .. abs unit , master cylinder, clutch cylinders , wheel; cylinders and pistons
Intercooler rotted.
Sills corroded from the inside from condensate.
FUEL coud have "diesel bug" --- this is bacteria in the diesel that will clog up everything
https://dieselcraft.com/it-is-not-algae ... hat-is-it/
Lock mechanisms seized.
Clutch stuck to flywheel.
Rear suspension seized up .

it just goes on and on .. standing is not good for any vehicle, especially outside.



all the best.mark

[xillent]

Was there any update to this. I was interested to see if she would start and what was found.

[Connect22]

Thanks Mark, really appreciate the advice and will give it a shot. I've not had the chance to work on it yet as I live far away but popped round today. It will probably be a slow moving project at this rate.

I've jacked the van up today but my manual says to only use the pinch weld on the sills. I've done this but then there is no room to fit the axel stands whilst the jack is there. Is there another point I can lift the connect mk1 with a trolly jack leaving the pinch weld free for the axel stands? Apologies if this is a silly question, I've looked through the owners manual and Hayes but couldn't find any other points.

Many thanks.

[metalworker0]

dont use the pinch welds at all, its asking for trouble, may be rotten

use the bits ive highlighted here in red, use a trolley jack

[Connect22]

Thanks, that worked. I've jacked her up today on the sub frame like you said, took the wheel and splash guard off. There's metal behind the plastic shield (please see attached photo) is there a way to get through this? I can't seem to find any bolts to remove it. Or is there any way to get to the crankshaft from the top of the engine?

[metalworker0]

there are a couple of screws that go upwards vertically.
accessed from underneath

top of picture on on a 90 degree plastic bracket thing .. the others at the other end

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/J98AAOSw ... l1600.webp

those disks are beyond saving unless you have a lathe

all the beast.mark